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BradleyJ.
·This was discussed to death in other threads and came up again in Uncle Seikos and Forstners flatlink thread when using their end links to replace the 50th ones. I just wanted to share the definte options to make this bracelet work without using smaller spring bars or better yet not reading thru 12 pages of people (including myself) asking how to even get a 50th bracelet before getting to an answer. Here's what I have found to work.
Not a speedy but I'll include this..
50th Bracelet straight out of the package with stock end links will fit a watchco case. The step on the back of the end link pushes on the case and makes the end link quite sturdy even if there are no horns to stabilize it. The end link is just shy of the length of the lugs but its so close it doesn't bother me. I used Omega spring bars and the up and down is perfect IMO.
Using the 50th on a speedy not designed for this type of end link..
There are other options as mentioned above, the Uncle seiko flatlink is fantastic and my daily wearer, the Forstner Flatlink looks good too however I don't own one. These are 2 zero effort and low cost options. Some people don't care for the vintage style clasps and would prefer the solid 50th clasp. I like them both but I agree the solid milled clasp has its own bling factor lol. With that said you can always replace the 50th links with Uncle seikos. I found them to match up perfect, they are sold separately from the bracelet if this is the route you take and are low cost. If you prefer solid links then you can also purchase the Forstner links. They are about double the cost of Uncle S. and need to be modified very slightly so they don't bind. This has been the only complaint I've read involving the use of Forstner links on an Uncle S. bracelet and I haven't read of anyone trying them on the 50th. Here are some photos of where material needs to be removed to make them fit. I hit this surface with the finest sanding drum i could find for my dremel. I went super light and it took all of 1 min to remove enough material to make it work. I don't want to knock Forstner but this area I removed material from had a terrible finish as it was, so the sanding drum left just as good a finish if not better.
I tried getting before and after shots of the finish but I don't have the best camera.
When I find time I will post pictures of the bracelet/bracelets on watches with all the various combos of bracelet/links. I get a lot of messages of people asking about this after reading the other threads where the conversation goes back and forth as what works or not. Just want to put this to bed (with what works for me anyway)
Not a speedy but I'll include this..
50th Bracelet straight out of the package with stock end links will fit a watchco case. The step on the back of the end link pushes on the case and makes the end link quite sturdy even if there are no horns to stabilize it. The end link is just shy of the length of the lugs but its so close it doesn't bother me. I used Omega spring bars and the up and down is perfect IMO.
Using the 50th on a speedy not designed for this type of end link..
There are other options as mentioned above, the Uncle seiko flatlink is fantastic and my daily wearer, the Forstner Flatlink looks good too however I don't own one. These are 2 zero effort and low cost options. Some people don't care for the vintage style clasps and would prefer the solid 50th clasp. I like them both but I agree the solid milled clasp has its own bling factor lol. With that said you can always replace the 50th links with Uncle seikos. I found them to match up perfect, they are sold separately from the bracelet if this is the route you take and are low cost. If you prefer solid links then you can also purchase the Forstner links. They are about double the cost of Uncle S. and need to be modified very slightly so they don't bind. This has been the only complaint I've read involving the use of Forstner links on an Uncle S. bracelet and I haven't read of anyone trying them on the 50th. Here are some photos of where material needs to be removed to make them fit. I hit this surface with the finest sanding drum i could find for my dremel. I went super light and it took all of 1 min to remove enough material to make it work. I don't want to knock Forstner but this area I removed material from had a terrible finish as it was, so the sanding drum left just as good a finish if not better.
I tried getting before and after shots of the finish but I don't have the best camera.
When I find time I will post pictures of the bracelet/bracelets on watches with all the various combos of bracelet/links. I get a lot of messages of people asking about this after reading the other threads where the conversation goes back and forth as what works or not. Just want to put this to bed (with what works for me anyway)
