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apollo 11 50th moonwatch bracelet available?

abrod520
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watchstick_81 watchstick_81
I've put the Apollo 11 50th bracelet on my regular 2017 Moonwatch and the Speedy Tuesday Ultraman with a regular 19mm spring bar.

Those are 20mm lugs, and I'd be really careful wearing that on 19mm spring bars....
 
speedytoronto
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abrod520 abrod520
Those are 20mm lugs, and I'd be really careful wearing that on 19mm spring bars....
Omega uses 19mm spring bars on 20mm lug watches with bracelets. So that it’s easier to remove the bracelet. When you buy a new Speedmaster with bracelet you get two sets of 20mm spring bars in the suitcase for the nato and Velcro straps but the bracelet is mounted with 19mm spring bars.
 
speedytoronto
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BradleyJ. BradleyJ.
Those hold the inner piece to the outer piece. In other words the screws hold the brushed middle into the polished outer..... if that makes sense. The lip is still attached even if you remove this.


I circled the problematic lip in red
Are you sure that’s the problem and not the protrusion caused by that piece screwed in? If you look carefully at the LWC watch I posted you can see that the lip is still there, it hasn’t been removed, yet the end link looks like it fits flush.
Edited:
 
watchstick_81
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BradleyJ. BradleyJ.
I only throw this idea out there because that's literally the only other thing that can be done to the endlink (I think haha) I have a modern speedy infront of me right now, without a bracelet on it and I have the 50th endlink off its bracelet mocked up to the case (with no spring bar in) The holes line up enough to do what you did with yours but the springbar hole on the endlink is off center with the holes in the case.

Good point and I indeed see the same here. The end link and the lug holes don't match up 100%, but it still works. Meanwhile I've spoken with a guy who ordered one and he requested not to share his photos nor give exact details (so I won't). But it all comes down to reducing the thickness of the lip so that the end link tilts up a bit. That would indeed require a very steady hand or a milling machine. So it's the same as with the 812 end links.

speedytoronto speedytoronto
Are you sure that’s the problem and not the protrusion caused by that piece screwed in? If you look carefully at the LWC watch I posted you can see that the lip is still there, it hasn’t been removed, yet the end link looks like it fits flush.

Yes it really comes down to that lip. The part you can remove (with the little screw) is recessed and doesn't touch the case. I'm not even sure why they made it like this. Perhaps this bracelet will become the new norm and they can provide a different piece to fit older type of Speedmasters (and the current Moonwatch that will replaced this or next year).

Anyway, now that I know the thickness of the lip is reduced, the comments of LWC make more sense. He did not adjust the part sticking out, but the height of it.
Edited:
 
watchstick_81
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abrod520 abrod520
Those are 20mm lugs, and I'd be really careful wearing that on 19mm spring bars....

Well, even with 19mm springbars, the total unloaded length is above 20mm. It just comes down to the size of the fixed bar so that the springs can be suppressed more. That makes it indeed easier to remove the bracelet. In fact, I removed a 1958 bracelet from a 2019 Speedmaster yesterday (for a friend) and I measured the springbars. They are actually around 18 mm with very long springs. I hope this makes sense 😀
 
BradleyJ.
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speedytoronto speedytoronto
Are you sure that’s the problem and not the protrusion caused by that piece screwed in?

The screwed in piece doesn't cause any protrusions.


watchstick_81 watchstick_81
Perhaps this bracelet will become the new norm and they can provide a different piece to fit older type of Speedmasters (and the current Moonwatch that will replaced this or next year).

You guys are still under the impression that this removable part is the "lip".... it is not. This has no bearing on how the endlink fits the case. If you remove these screws the only thing that will happen is the endlink will break down into two pieces, the brushed and the polished parts. It's a weird way to make an endlink I'll admit so I understand the confusion
 
watchstick_81
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BradleyJ. BradleyJ.
You guys are still under the impression that this removable part is the "lip".... it is not. This has no bearing on how the endlink fits the case. If you remove these screws the only thing that will happen is the endlink will break down into two pieces, the brushed and the polished parts. It's a weird way to make an endlink I'll admit so I understand the confusion

That's not what I mentioned (or tried to mention lol).
Because it's made up out two parts, one part ofcourse includes that lip and can be replaced with another part (theoretically) without having to provide two finishing techniques. Not sure why it's 300% overengineered otherwise. I wasn't talking about replacing only that lip, but the complete part it's attached to. The lip is part of the brushed link element.

Anyway, I just measured the thickness of the lip (with a plastic caliper....) and it's around 1.5 to 1.8 mm thick. So filing off 0.5 mm will just create a better fit for older Speedmaster, but will not make a big difference optically.
 
Vale21
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A shame for collectors to don't have the possibility to buy that kind of bracelets separetely
 
watchstick_81
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Vale21 Vale21
A shame for collectors to don't have the possibility to buy that kind of bracelets separetely

What do you mean? You can order this bracelet directly at your local AD. Not sure about OBs as they have other instructions how to handle bracelet orders that might not fit your watch.
Edited:
 
watchstick_81
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It's way more comfortable than the 1958 bracelet, which you will find on the current Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch. The links are much shorter and it wraps around your wrist way better. The lack of proper microadjustment is a shame, but so far so good.
Edited:
 
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BradleyJ.
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watchstick_81 watchstick_81
The lack of proper microadjustment is a shame,
It has the 1/2 link of adjustment in the clasp at least. I can get it good enough with link removal/addition to the point where that half link adjustment takes care of summer swell or winter shrink Haha.
 
B
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For anyone still looking into this for their non apollo 11, I've been informed by a boutique technician that it can be done without modifying the endlinks and instead by using a slightly thinner spring bar. Said it had been done multiple times without issue so far.
 
Pazzo
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B bruin20
For anyone still looking into this for their non apollo 11, I've been informed by a boutique technician that it can be done without modifying the endlinks and instead by using a slightly thinner spring bar. Said it had been done multiple times without issue so far.

Of course s/he would say that. That is the easiest way out for them but I wouldn't suggest you do that.
Using a thinner spring bar on a steel bracelet is a no go for me.
 
Evitzee
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B bruin20
For anyone still looking into this for their non apollo 11, I've been informed by a boutique technician that it can be done without modifying the endlinks and instead by using a slightly thinner spring bar. Said it had been done multiple times without issue so far.
Emphasis on "so far".
 
s2000_driver
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B bruin20
For anyone still looking into this for their non apollo 11, I've been informed by a boutique technician that it can be done without modifying the endlinks and instead by using a slightly thinner spring bar. Said it had been done multiple times without issue so far.

That does not sound like good advice from the tech. The wrong spring bar will likely result in the watch falling on the ground or worse getting lost. I am paranoid about spring bars failing. I always check and double check them every time I change straps or bracelets. I wish more watches came with solid screws like the Royal Oak or most Panerai models.
 
B
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s2000_driver s2000_driver
That does not sound like good advice from the tech. The wrong spring bar will likely result in the watch falling on the ground or worse getting lost. I am paranoid about spring bars failing. I always check and double check them every time I change straps or bracelets. I wish more watches came with solid screws like the Royal Oak or most Panerai models.


If the watchmaker on staff at an omega boutique is installing a bracelet and chooses thinner spring bars to make it fit then I’m going to be just fine with the strength of the bars and durability of the fitment.
 
Pazzo
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B bruin20
If the watchmaker on staff at an omega boutique is installing a bracelet and chooses thinner spring bars to make it fit then I’m going to be just fine with the strength of the bars and durability of the fitment.

That's up to you.
Don't say you weren't warned if (fingers crossed) something goes wrong.
 
BradleyJ.
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Evitzee Evitzee
Emphasis on "so far".
Wether I'm working over steel grates or railroad ties with large gaps, the majority of my work is over the ocean since I mainly deal with movable bridges. I don't trust any spring bars except the correct ones... especially since this morning I forgot my beater SM300 and put on my speedy in a half asleep stuper.
 
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BradleyJ.
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I feel like this issue is solved with the introduction of the @Uncle Seiko flat link but I just came up with the most simple solution (which is usually the most overlooked) Just use the 50th bracelet with a set of Uncle S's endlinks...... problem solved. Hope this helps those of you who prefer a heavy milled clasp like on the 50th. If the old style clasp doesn't bother you then I'd just keep about $630 bucks (USD) in your pocket, and grab the Uncle S. flatlink all together.
 
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