wagudc
·If you look above you can see the table base for the top. Those mortises were 2" X 1" X 2 1/2" deep and were done with a router. Since the skirt boars were so long I could not make the tenons on the table saw, so they were also routed. Lots of final chiseling, filing and sanding to get just the right fit. Usually use Titebond II but used hide glue for more time to get the table base square and the legs vertical. You can see on that photo the 4" square pieces of wood on the bottom of the legs to help make sure the legs are vertical. When I glue up tops I always put a 1/4" groove in each board and then a 1/4" piece to help get good alignment when gluing up. Helps keep the boards from racking out of horizontal.
I love poplar because it never moves. Usually only use it when I am going to paint it. Oak is a real pain to work with besides the cost. I made the octagonal tapered table legs. Set up a router jig on top of an old lathe I bought. ($20.00) It took 32 passes with the router to make one leg. Red oak requires multiple bit cleaning to keep the chatter down. Never gain will I make octagonal tapered legs.
You have to post a picture of your table when it is all done. It will be beautiful for sure. It is hard to find decently made furniture at any price these days. I guess if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. I do what I can with antiques. This is my favorite piece, I bought several years back.



















