A386 MKIII

[Charger_Vital]

@subregister Theres not much to it. The only marks are the Zenith mark on the outside of the buckle, a "stainless steel" indicia on the inside of the clasp and an "AR-0501" on the terminal link of the bracelet itself (only on one side). That said, the quality of the bracelet is nice. It feels a bit more substantial than the vintage Gay Freres ladder bracelets I've seen. Pics below:

 

[TexOmega]

I'm still waiting on mine, I ordered in April....... what part of the world are you located?




Looks great, glad to here you like it and see pictures.

 

[Charger_Vital]

I'm in San Francisco. I ordered it back in March through a Texas-based AD (Luxury Timepieces), who shipped it to me earlier this week. One thing I would note: the end pieces didn't quite fit. They slotted in between the lugs perfectly, but I was not able to get the spring bar to totally sink into the spring bar holes as there didn't seem to be enough vertical clearance. It became clear to me that the underwings would not quite allow the end piece to push up far enough. I wound up getting a metal file to file down the sides of the metal wings on the underside of the end piece to gain the clearance I needed. That did the trick and it fits perfect now. But I'd be curious if you run into the same problem.

 

[TexOmega]

Charger_Vital

I'm in San Francisco. I ordered it back in March through a Texas-based AD (Luxury Timepieces), who shipped it to me earlier this week. One thing I would note: the end pieces didn't quite fit. They slotted in between the lugs perfectly, but I was not able to get the spring bar to totally sink into the spring bar holes as there didn't seem to be enough vertical clearance. It became clear to me that the underwings would not quite allow the end piece to push up far enough. I wound up getting a metal file to file down the sides of the metal wings on the underside of the end piece to gain the clearance I needed. That did the trick and it fits perfect now. But I'd be curious if you run into the same problem.

A picture or two where you had to file(or a quick scketch with arrows) would be great.

I anticipate a call tomorrow because that is who I ordered from also, and the WM said he had one additional 386A order he was waiting on when I called 2 weeks ago.

Any other adjustments?

Use PM if you wish to not clutter this thread.

 

[Charger_Vital]

No other adjustments. The file worked fine. I will try to figure out a sketch for you.

 

[Charger_Vital]

@TexOmega, Per your request :

 

[TexOmega]

Charger_Vital

@TexOmega, Per your request :

Fantastic

thank you

 

[PKWU]

Hi...thanks for all the info you shared...
may i know the part number of the bracelet?
i also want to order one!

Charger_Vital

No other adjustments. The file worked fine. I will try to figure out a sketch for you.

 

[Charger_Vital]

PKWU

Hi...thanks for all the info you shared...
may i know the part number of the bracelet?
i also want to order one!

see the number on the end link package in the picture attached. I think that’s what you’re looking for. But when you order make sure you get the ladder bracelet for the “vintage” a 386 model.

 

[PKWU]

thank you for sharing!

Charger_Vital

see the number on the end link package in the picture attached. I think that’s what you’re looking for. But when you order make sure you get the ladder bracelet for the “vintage” a 386 model.

 

[subregister]

BTW note the updated estimated production number for the A386 of 4,500

 

[Charger_Vital]

subregister

BTW note the updated estimated production number for the A386 of 4,500

Sorry, I don't follow. Where is this update? And what did the update replace?

 

[subregister]

Charger_Vital

Sorry, I don't follow. Where is this update? And what did the update replace?

I've written a bit more detail here if of interest.
2009: Rossler estimates at 2,500 in 'Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865'
-> most people use this figure when quoting production of the A386
2015: Rossler updates estimate to 4,500 in 'El Primero - Der Chronograph'
-> this update is generally overlooked, I'm guessing likely due to combination of the update being in German only, plus the 2,500 figure being widely quoted based on the earlier estimate

Edited: Sep 20, 2020

 

[Medinatalzahra]

Is the 2014 Rossler cite an updated edition of his book, article, or other source? Can you post a link? Thx, M

 

[TexOmega]

Updated book

 

[Medinatalzahra]

Thanks. I have the 2008 edition. Did he just update the table? Any other material updates? M

 

[TexOmega]

I only have the 2008 edition

 

[subregister]

Medinatalzahra

Is the 2014 Rossler cite an updated edition of his book, article, or other source? Can you post a link? Thx, M

I should have said 2015 (date of the later publication - have corrected in earlier post) - that is his later book. Unfortunately, I do not have the 2009 publication to compare.
It does include 5 pages of tables of El Primero references with details of each, including number produced (not just cal 3019, but also 400, 405, 410 and 420), and 43 pages of small images of each Zenith El Primero piece from 1969-2001. This in addition to intro pages, some technical detail pages and movement images.

 

[Medinatalzahra]

Thanks. I have attached photos of the tables from the 2008 edition of Rossler’s book. Apologies for the poor photo quality.

 

[ELV web]

Medinatalzahra

Thanks. I have attached photos of the tables from the 2008 edition of Rossler’s book. Apologies for the poor photo quality.

Change the orientation for yer