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Caliber561
·Many watch enthusiasts, myself included, typically think of only a few watches when considering chronographs. The Zenith El Primero is a watch I had seen threads and posts about but never managed to really dive into, until now.
Heads up, this first post is pretty long. There are a decent amount of pictures though!
First glance:
For those who don't already know, some context:
On the Dial:
Blue was my favorite color for a long time, and I didn't yet have a fun watch with a couple of different shades of blue. So, this EP is really quite the treat. I considered getting the Boutique Exclusive Chronomaster Original, which I was able to preview at the manufacture, but the limit of 1 hour for chronograph recording was too short for me.
On the Case:
(Mk1 EP Case Side Photo Reference From Analog/Shift: https://shop.analogshift.com/products/as02888-zenith-el-primero-a386-mk1) ... I hope I'll eventually be able to take shots as good as those myself.
The Movement
The Tactile Experience:
So with that, I conclude my initial thoughts on my El Primero Manufacture A386. And I'm happy to say, I am presently wearing and enjoying the watch.
Heads up, this first post is pretty long. There are a decent amount of pictures though!
First glance:
- When this watch first came out, I had already known of the El Primero’s story. However, I didn’t know zip about the different models. (A384, A385, and A386) Really, all I knew about the watch was that it was smartly sized despite being automatic, and vintage pieces looked pretty great. That said, the modern interpretations of the A386 didn’t interest me at the time, and there wasn’t (and still isn’t) a whole lot of readily available information regarding vintage versions. That kept me from really getting into Zenith until the release of this manufacture edition.
For those who don't already know, some context:
- It’s already been discussed on this thread that Zenith's story regarding the subdial colors may be a little 'sus'.
- Given the Zenith manufacture apparently only has a few hundred employees, I find it plausible that there were unexplored parts of the Vermot attic that held secrets within. The ‘shadow’ A384 has a similar story, and it seems like the sample case shown on the Zenith site is legit. With that, it's possible that other parts may have been found. That said, let’s not get into the weeds about the veracity of the story. Rather than asking, 'is the marketing story true?' the question any prospective buyer should seek to answer is probably something along the lines of 'Will I wear and enjoy this watch?'
On the Dial:
- There are sharply defined lines between subdials that are rendered in pearlescent white. The main dial is more of a flat white – Which allows for an interesting contrast in certain lights, beyond just that of the blue subdials and black decimal scale. The guilloche circles of the subdials are also clearly defined, and reflect the light wonderfully, as they're each finished in gloss blue.
Blue was my favorite color for a long time, and I didn't yet have a fun watch with a couple of different shades of blue. So, this EP is really quite the treat. I considered getting the Boutique Exclusive Chronomaster Original, which I was able to preview at the manufacture, but the limit of 1 hour for chronograph recording was too short for me.
- The inclusion of both the decimal scale and the tachometer is very impressive on a 38mm chronograph. While this is not exactly an innovation, as the previous A386-like models used highly simplified dial formats, it’s still impressive that Zenith was able to pack in two calculator functions into a watch case size that many other brands aren’t even able to fit one into. Zenith had also forgotten how to do this themselves. For example, the 1969 Original doesn’t even have subdivisions for the seconds, even though the movement still ticks at 36000 BPH. A bit of a waste, if you ask me.
- The script and printed chapter rings have been wonderfully executed. They are quite sharp and as a result, legible. Serifs aren’t present like on vintage dials, but that is regrettably the norm for most watches today.
- Luminous is pretty mid. Given the original case size and dial design though, this doesn’t bother me. If I need a night watch, I’ll use something other than a chronograph. That said, it would be cool to see an EP in the future with a dial that has its markings printed over a base of solid Super Luminova.
- Also, the lume is standard Super Luminova, not colored like ZnS as some seem to dislike.
On the Case:
- I'm a huge fan of the case's design. I don't really know if anyone else has described the A386 case in this way, but I feel that it looks 'fast.' The sun-brushed lug tops and polished sides speak ‘tool watch,’ but it’s the elegant curve of the mid-case and the angled termination at the ends that really makes this case distinct.
- For the most part, this revival case is faithful to the original. The groove around the ‘bezel’ portion of the case has been omitted, staying true to the ‘Mark 1’ iteration of the A386. However, the bevels on the edges of the lug flanks are less pronounced, and I would have liked to see them be as prominent as on the originals. Quality execution of subtle case geometry is always pleasing to see and feel, and the beveling like on the lug edges of the original A386 would have been the cherry on top for me. Despite my nitpicking though, this is still quite the handsome chunk of stainless steel.
(Mk1 EP Case Side Photo Reference From Analog/Shift: https://shop.analogshift.com/products/as02888-zenith-el-primero-a386-mk1) ... I hope I'll eventually be able to take shots as good as those myself.
- The domed crystal has been wonderfully executed. The profile is such that it is exactly like a vintage plastic crystal when viewed from any angle. Additionally, the crystal distorts the dial much like a vintage plastic crystal does. In fact, one might think upon picking this watch up that the crystal is, actually, a plastic dome. But they’d be wrong - and that’s how good this sapphire is. For reference, it’s far closer to the Trilogy Railmaster’s dome than the Sapphire Sandwich Speedmaster. No overly aggressive box shape, and no milky ring.
- In my opinion, domed crystals aren’t just about vintage charm. Modern watches with flat crystals lose out on the dynamic effect that high dome crystals have. Their dials look flatter, less interesting, and light tends to play across them in a more mundane way than their domed counterparts. Thanks to Zenith’s faithful rendition of the El Primero’s crystal in sapphire, this revival doesn’t lose out on any of that.
- In my opinion, domed crystals aren’t just about vintage charm. Modern watches with flat crystals lose out on the dynamic effect that high dome crystals have. Their dials look flatter, less interesting, and light tends to play across them in a more mundane way than their domed counterparts. Thanks to Zenith’s faithful rendition of the El Primero’s crystal in sapphire, this revival doesn’t lose out on any of that.
- The high dome crystal also assists with wearability. The fact that 2-3 mm of height is wrapped up in the dome rather than the side flanks of the case or the case back lets the watch wear much slimmer than its already impressively compact measurements suggest.
- The case back though, is a little bit on the tall side. This is because the mid-case itself only measures about 3.5 mm. Thus, without a bezel between the crystal and mid-case to give a bit of a vertical buffer, the bottom half of the mid-case and caseback together (purple) must be ~6mm to properly house the movement.
- Visually, this means the watch can ‘float’ a little above your wrist. Personally, I don’t mind this. It sort of reminds me of the Rolex Bubbleback Oyster Perpetuals, but I know many prefer the mid-case to sit flush on the wrist, with the case back mostly or completely out of view. If this is a big deal for you, definitely check out how the watch wears on your wrist if you can get a chance.
The Movement
- Not a lot about this movement can be said that hasn’t been before - so I will focus on my own considerations and factors for my decision.
- The high beat is both a boon and, from what I’ve read, a possible ticking time bomb. The smoothness of the seconds hand and chronograph seconds is really quite a joy to look at. The boring movement of quartz watches is one of the things that pushed me into the world of mechanical timepieces. So, the high beat is more fun to look at and listen to. While the supposed increased accuracy from a higher frequency is also nice, I have vintage Constellations running at 18000 BPH that keep time better than watches running at 28800, so I’m more of a firm believer in quality factory adjustment and regulation rather than just beat rate. And a consequence of this beat rate might be that parts wear out faster than if the rate were slower, as pointed out by reports like these:
- In any case, if you are considering purchasing high beat watches, be aware of the potential costs you may encounter down the road. I picked up this EP with the understanding that the movement could wear itself out way faster than anything I'm accustomed to – And I'm prepared to give it the maintenance it needs when necessary.
- The movement’s finishing is fairly solid. I would have liked to see more, like brushing or cotes on the ¾ plate, but given how little surface area is visible it’s not too much of a nitpick.
The Tactile Experience:
- When it comes to how things feel, this movement is on another level. Seeing the watch in person, and feeling it come alive in my hands was a huge part of my decision to purchase it.
- When engaging in manual winding, not that you would ever have to, you are treated to a wonderfully crisp, yet smooth experience. The action of winding is not the ‘silent smooth' you would expect of an Omega 880X series watch, where you can only hear the whirring of the reverser assembly when putting the watch right up to your ear. What you hear with the El Primero 400 is more like a slightly louder version of the bliss-inducing sound produced by the vintage Omega bumper movements. I absolutely love it.
- It also ought to be noted that the crown is plenty large enough for all crown-related actions you find yourself needing to perform. On the flip side, I haven’t found it digging into my wrist or being uncomfortable as a result of its size and placement.
- It also ought to be noted that the crown is plenty large enough for all crown-related actions you find yourself needing to perform. On the flip side, I haven’t found it digging into my wrist or being uncomfortable as a result of its size and placement.
- The automatic winding: The EP400, like many other watches, uses a ball bearing with its oscillating weight. Just like those other watches, there is more audible sound compared to a fixed, friction-type bearing. I don’t mind this, but I know many others do. For what it’s worth, it’s quieter than the ceramic bearings used in watches like the Rolex 323X series.
- Chronograph Actuation:
- I find that some column-wheel chronographs can be easily started with a light press. Accidental operation is, therefore, a concern, although admittedly it is unlikely due to the pusher position. However, this is not the case at all for the El Primero. To activate the top and bottom pushers, you must apply roughly the same force as the top pusher of an 861/1861/3861. Once you do that, your ears are greeted with a crisp ‘click.’
- Another minor detail is that the force required to operate the chronograph actuation and reset on the same watch can be very different. For the EP, start/stop/reset are all very similar.
- I find that some column-wheel chronographs can be easily started with a light press. Accidental operation is, therefore, a concern, although admittedly it is unlikely due to the pusher position. However, this is not the case at all for the El Primero. To activate the top and bottom pushers, you must apply roughly the same force as the top pusher of an 861/1861/3861. Once you do that, your ears are greeted with a crisp ‘click.’
- The watch has an instantaneous date change. IMO, it’s always a pleasure to hear that keen snap, especially as someone who’s a bit of a night owl.
- Quickset Date: Flipping through dates is almost addictive. Thanks to the size of the crown, and likely also to the design of the movement, the date can be changed with every ~1/3rd rotation of the crown. This makes it very easy (and surprisingly fun) to flip through the dates willy-nilly. The springy clicking of the date wheel whizzing about is also quite nice. Peculiarly, the crown must be pulled out to the second position for quickset, not the first.
- Paddle? Paddle.
So with that, I conclude my initial thoughts on my El Primero Manufacture A386. And I'm happy to say, I am presently wearing and enjoying the watch.
and for the excellent review! 
