176.007 - Which one looks best?

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

Hey Guys,

If you were to choose one of these 176.007, which would you consider the best in terms of price, holding it's value and collectibility? Option 1 looks very sharp, but it's less 'original'. Option 2 all looks pretty legit and they've offered to polish if I want. Option 3 seems the best value for money, but then it seems like it's really hard to source the original 1170 bracelet.

Which would you guys go for?

Option 1 - £2,300 / Omega Refurbished / Replacement Bracelet (?)

Omega-SeamasterVintage-176.007-152191-2-191129-160337.jpg

Omega-SeamasterVintage-176.007-152191-3-191129-160340.jpg

Omega-SeamasterVintage-176.007-152191-4-191129-160343.jpg

Option 2 - £2,123 / Original Bracelet (?)

Option 3 - £1,695 / No Bracelet

vienna · Feb 17, 2020

Option 1 and 2 look like they lost some flesh from refurbishing. I like 1 more than 2 because of the nice lapidating/polishing. The original bracelet would be a 1170/653 which is not too easy to get, especially the 653 end links. Regarding the price 3 seems cheap but if you add 450 EUR you are at almost the same level as 1 or 2.

Hands of No. 2 look like replacements to me.

If you need pics of a soft refurbished one I can send you some of mine.

Kind regards Max

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

vienna
Option 1 and 2 look like they lost some flesh from refurbishing. I like 1 more than 2 because of the nice lapidating/polishing. The original bracelet would be a 1170/653 which is not too easy to get, especially the 653 end links. Regarding the price 3 seems cheap but if you add 450 EUR you are at almost the same level as 1 or 2.

Hands of No. 2 look like replacements to me.

If you need pics of a soft refurbished one I can send you some of mine.

Kind regards Max

Hey Max,

Thanks for your comments, really appreciate that.

Yes I was thinking the same with option 3, it'll end up near the same price once I find a bracelet... and I imagine that won't be so easy.

I'm probably leaning most towards option 1, though option 2 with a polish would look equally sharp (I'm guessing) and has the added advantage of an original bracelet... and is cheaper.

Would you say option 3 looks also like it's been polished? The current owner has had it for 10 years and says at least while he's had it's not been polished. Apparently it was "recently used as an excellent example in a Omega book by Alberto Isnardi".

cvalue13 · Feb 17, 2020

Vine
in terms of price, holding it's value and collectibility?

are you (a) buying to wear and keep (and so future value/collect ability is incidental), or (b) buying to flip/as an investment (and so future value/collectibility is critical)?

note that option (b) is to me a somewhat suspect philosophy as is, particularly with these 176s; while if instead you’re more like (a):

None are perfect/NOS examples, but they’re perfectly good/great “wearables” and the pricing mostly reflects that.

The “polishing” done to #1 is going to be pricey to get out of #2, and so the delta in pricing should be borne in mind - not just any place can give #2 the treatment that appears to have been given to #1, for that price difference.

the third watch is a different animal, both in terms of dial color preference, paying for a bracelet, and what it is/isn’t. The case photos aren’t particularly clear, but seems to be an “honest” watch in good case shape without much/any polishing.

in all, if I wanted a super crisp looking watch that has been materially altered, and that has a bracelet (original or not), I’d be opting for #1. If instead I wanted a relatively “original” watch and didn’t mind picking up a bracelet later (if I ended up loving the watch), then #3 is a perfectly rational choice (given the price delta).

one last consideration not clearly set out: at these price differences I’d be intently determining whether and when the watch has had its last service, and factoring in that price/convenience delta

beat of luck!

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

cvalue13
are you (a) buying to wear and keep (and so future value/collect ability is incidental), or (b) buying to flip/as an investment (and so future value/collectibility is critical)?

note that option (b) is to me a somewhat suspect philosophy as is, particularly with these 176s; while if instead you’re more like (a):

None are perfect/NOS examples, but they’re perfectly good/great “wearables” and the pricing mostly reflects that.

The “polishing” done to #1 is going to be pricey to get out of #2, and so the delta in pricing should be borne in mind - not just any place can give #2 the treatment that appears to have been given to #1, for that price difference.

the third watch is a different animal, both in terms of dial color preference, paying for a bracelet, and what it is/isn’t. The case photos aren’t particularly clear, but seems to be an “honest” watch in good case shape without much/any polishing.

in all, if I wanted a super crisp looking watch that has been materially altered, and that has a bracelet (original or not), I’d be opting for #1. If instead I wanted a relatively “original” watch and didn’t mind picking up a bracelet later (if I ended up loving the watch), then #3 is a perfectly rational choice (given the price delta).

one last consideration not clearly set out: at these price differences I’d be intently determining whether and when the watch has had its last service, and factoring in that price/convenience delta

beat of luck!

That's great, thanks for taking the time to share your advice!

I'd say a bit of 'a' since I definitely want to wear the watch and really like the design, and 'b' since I would like to purchase the best example in terms of holding its value in the future.

Option 1 recently was serviced and comes with a 12 month guarantee. Option 2 and 3 to my knowledge haven't recently been serviced but are running well.

Option 2, the seller says "can be polished in the original way.. but if you like we will leave it as it is" at I believe no additional cost. Though I'm not sure they can do the same quality finish as option 1. I'd only find out afterwards.

---

I did see this one come up before on eBay but I just missed out. It sold for £3,625 and was apparently "super mint". Would you say it's worth that much more than the 3 examples I'm considering above? It did look very nice, but that's a big price difference.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUPER-MINT-VINTAGE-OMEGA-SEAMASTER-176-007-CHRONOGRAPH-FROM-1970-S-1040-/254458048884?hash=item3b3ee1b174:g:5PAAAOSwy2Bd-34W&nma=true&si=NryjSriZYu0ZGQrYwpXvoi%2Fv2qk%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

... actually on closer inspection the one above looks like it's had a lot polished off given how close it goes to the pusher apertures. Or does that look correct to you?

cvalue13 · Feb 17, 2020

I’d have to focus a lot harder on that ebay watch to determine if it looks that good and is original, or instead somehow refinished

but, assuming it looks that good and is original, then yes an untouched watch in that condition is worth far more than, e.g., a reworked watch such as your #1

In general, the watch collecting community (to use an analogy) values a vintage car with its original paint and tires (even if the paint is chipped and the tires flat) far more than a vintage car with a new paint job and fresh, inflated tires. Best of all is a vintage car with original paint that appears to be brand new, and tires full of original air molecules.

But there’s nothing wrong with wanting a vintage car with fresh paint and tires, if you intend to drive it and the price is right

vienna · Feb 17, 2020

That‘s what I thought too,

kind regards Max

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

vienna
That‘s what I thought too,

kind regards Max

That the eBay watch has been heavily polished or it’s hard to say?

Those edges do look ridiculously sharp, or is that how they looked new?

vienna · Feb 17, 2020

To me it looks polished,

kind regards Max

cvalue13 · Feb 17, 2020

Vine
That the eBay watch has been heavily polished or it’s hard to say?

Those edges do look ridiculously sharp, or is that how they looked new?

ridiculously sharp, originally. Combo of brushed and polished surfaces. Here’s one in gold, sealed and stickered:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/new...-176-007-chronograph-perfect-condition.37327/

take a google around for other true NOS, and get a feel for what a crisp case looks like vs refinished, vs polished, vs Unpolished and in good shape

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

cvalue13
ridiculously sharp, originally. Combo of brushed and polished surfaces. Here’s one in gold, sealed and stickered:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/new...-176-007-chronograph-perfect-condition.37327/

take a google around for other true NOS, and get a feel for what a crisp case looks like vs refinished, vs polished, vs Unpolished and in good shape

Wow ok so they’re crazy sharp as new!

I guess this NOS one confirms that indeed the eBay one was heavily over polished given the difference in distance between pusher aperture and case front. It’s almost gone complete while the NOS has plenty of distance.

cvalue13 · Feb 17, 2020

On a quick glance, see also

Vs

Andy K · Feb 17, 2020

Vine
I did see this one come up before on eBay but I just missed out. It sold for £3,625 and was apparently "super mint". Would you say it's worth that much more than the 3 examples I'm considering above? It did look very nice, but that's a big price difference.

I think the price on that one was far too high. Have a look at the movement. It is a mix of 1040 and 1041 parts. The rotor has no SN (a 1040 should have the SN on the rotor), and you can see through the window of the rotor that there is the extra text of a 1041 (Speedmaster 125) bridge. Although the part with the movement number is clearly 1040.

As @cvalue13 pointed out, the case shows signs of work. Pretty darn good work, but still. I would not have paid half of what was achieved for that watch.

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

Andy K
I think the price on that one was far too high. Have a look at the movement. It is a mix of 1040 and 1041 parts. The rotor has no SN (a 1040 should have the SN on the rotor), and you can see through the window of the rotor that there is the extra text of a 1041 (Speedmaster 125) bridge. Although the part with the movement number is clearly 1040.

As @cvalue13 pointed out, the case shows signs of work. Pretty darn good work, but still. I would not have paid half of what was achieved for that watch.

Ah yes I did notice the SN was missing which seemed odd even to my untrained eyes. The rest of what you pointed out I’d have had no idea though! 😀

OMEGuy · Feb 17, 2020

For me option #3 is the only interesting one. It looks honest and well preserved to me. I like the dial/the tritium dots in very good condition.

Option #1 is second choice to me, as the dial is not that nice, it has too many service parts (hands, crown) and last but not least has been refinished.

Option #2: Looking at the case, this would be no option for me.

BTW: The correct bracelet / end piece combination for this watch ref. is 1170 / 653.

I agree the ebay watch was made for sale. It even had custom made end piece replacements... 👎

Andy K · Feb 17, 2020

Vine
Ah yes I did notice the SN was missing which seemed odd even to my untrained eyes. The rest of what you pointed out I’d have had no idea though! 😀

See here a guide to visually comparing 1040 movements: https://www.calibre1040.com/calibre-1040-collectors-guide-movements/

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

OMEGuy
For me option #3 is the only interesting one. It looks honest and well preserved to me. I like the dial/the tritium dots in very good condition.

Option #1 is second choice to me, as the dial is not that nice, it has too many service parts (hands, crown) and last but not least has been refinished.

Option #2: Looking at the case, this would be no option for me.

BTW: The correct bracelet / end piece combination for this watch ref. is 1170 / 653.

I agree the ebay watch was made for sale. It even had custom made end piece replacements... 👎

Thanks for your comments, that’s really interesting.

When you say the dial is not that nice on option 1 what do you mean specifically? Sorry for me I can’t tell so it’ll be helpful to know what to look for. And how can you tell the hands and crown have been replaced? Sorry, I’m sure these are stupid obvious questions to you collectors, but I’m really keen to learn.

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

Andy K
See here a guide to visually comparing 1040 movements: https://www.calibre1040.com/calibre-1040-collectors-guide-movements/

Perfect, thank you!

Vine · Feb 17, 2020

I found out the more honest ‘option 3’ hasn’t been serviced for at 10 years since the current owner has had it.

I presume that’s quite a long time without a service? What would you guys pay roughly to have a watch like this serviced?

176.007 - Which one looks best?

Vine

vienna

Vine

cvalue13

Vine

Vine

cvalue13

vienna

Vine

vienna

cvalue13

Vine

cvalue13

Andy K

Vine

OMEGuy

Andy K

Vine

Vine

Vine

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