167.005 vs 14900

I wouldn't put much of a premium on the five-digit vs six-digit references. In your place, I would focus more on style (e.g. date vs. no-date) and condition. If you're ok with the dial (personal preference and price), it looks like a nice watch. The case looks much better than average based on that one angle.

Speaking of case number references 14x cases seem to not fit the case charts. At least for 147xx and it seems 149xx. The middle 4 would imply a chronograph like 145. I have a 14700 case, and a 14703 case should arrive today. These are keyed to fit 55x/56x 27.90mm movements.

I recently got a Bestfit cross reference (Dated 1977.) This seems to skip a lot of earlier movements and refs like the 165.xxx cases. There is a big gap between 145.xxx and 166,xxx. It helpful though for matching the BF numbers in crystal listings.

OFrie has a page that states 14700 was an American market case. The omega site says 'American collection.' 14703 does not seem to be in any of the charts I have such as the ones listed in the oft linked megathread.

14703 does seem to be on the omega site. 14702 should fit a 562.

So where is the cross ref that says 14900 is the same size as a 167.005? Or 14902 and a 168.005?

I have a 561 and a 564 movement looking for a home. It just does not feel right to put them into the wrong case.

I may at least temporally put the 563 into the 14703 if the dial fits. (I like the quickset, which the 561 does not have.)

Still think I did this the wrong way round. Get case and dial first, then find a scrapped movement.

Sometimes I think I wrote the book on hand pipes. Not that eBay sellers know the difference between 1253 1253B sweep pinions. There are actually three or 4 different heights. There is also a 1253A for day date movements. Same for cannon pinions and hour wheels. which can be 1218 or 1219. I got a bunch of 1231 hour wheels only to learn 550 and 560 are different. The caliber is important. And the 600/610/613 have a different bridge.

Most listings seem to think all the parts are swappable, when in actuality only 75 percent of the parts are comparable.

So yeah, the movements will sort of fit. The real question, is there a comprehensive case/dial chart? Some of what can be inferred from the crystal charts (which have gaps)

This is a bit rhetorical, as I have been attempting to repaint dials for over 30 years, they have high attrition rates. Which is probably why no two 'vintage' dials are exactly the same.