Zodiac seawolf around 1970 :-(, my watchmaker gave up on me!! Cal 70-72 help needed

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Thank you for your research my friend, But the description says clearly that it’s not running! Would you take a chance ?
Damn straight I would. You don't need the "running" parts. There are 2 risks: 1. the movement is complete junk or 2. Wrong movement.
Description says '50s but it is from the '60s.
What I'm trying to say is that if you focus on Cal 70 movements, they are hard to come by. If you expand your search to watches that contain parts you need it gives more options.
 
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Damn straight I would. You don't need the "running" parts. There are 2 risks: 1. the movement is complete junk or 2. Wrong movement.
Description says '50s but it is from the '60s.
What I'm trying to say is that if you focus on Cal 70 movements, they are hard to come by. If you expand your search to watches that contain parts you need it gives more options.
I agree with this- movement not running doesn’t mean it has the same issues yours does- or it may, it’s always a gamble. If it’s cheap enough it’s worth the gamble. But- as I have found with some other movements, even though it’s a 70 series movement doesn’t mean there weren’t revisions made from one series to another- so again- another gamble.
If there is a watchmaker among us that specializes in vintage Zodiac, they would be the best source to know which parts changed from one 70 series to another....paging Zodiac expert watchmakers....hello....any of you guys still alive?
 
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Damn straight I would. You don't need the "running" parts. There are 2 risks: 1. the movement is complete junk or 2. Wrong movement.
Description says '50s but it is from the '60s.
What I'm trying to say is that if you focus on Cal 70 movements, they are hard to come by. If you expand your search to watches that contain parts you need it gives more options.
I am sorry for my ignorance but how do you know this watch uses parts of cal 70?
 
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The early Zodiacs used bumper autos. I think their first rotary auto movement was the Cal 70. It is a risk but if you get it for $25, take some good pics and sell it on ebay 😉
I rummaged though my parts box and found a Cal 70/72 from a Zodiac Glorious. Rusty mess but...

The Axle appears to be functional.
So, expand your search to Zodiac Glorious and you should be good 😀
 
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So this is half of the system- the flat gear is the other half of what was my grinding manual winding issue.

Dead Link/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122899206361

According to your parts sheet, this is 407, the flat gear was 410. Both of these your watchmaker changed....so unless you got the AS/GP part and not the Zodiac specific parts (as my watchmaker did) then they couldn’t even be fitted to the movement.
 
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I think part of the issue is that we need clarification on of it was an auto winding issue or a manual winding issue. Your watchmaker said the auto winding was the problem and he suggested discarding it and having it just be a manual wind. But you said the manual winding was rough and it runs fine in auto- very different parts of the movement.
 
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The early Zodiacs used bumper autos. I think their first rotary auto movement was the Cal 70. It is a risk but if you get it for $25, take some good pics and sell it on ebay 😉
I rummaged though my parts box and found a Cal 70/72 from a Zodiac Glorious. Rusty mess but...

The Axle appears to be functional.
So, expand your search to Zodiac Glorious and you should be good 😀
Thanks my friend . I will
 
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I think part of the issue is that we need clarification on of it was an auto winding issue or a manual winding issue. Your watchmaker said the auto winding was the problem and he suggested discarding it and having it just be a manual wind. But you said the manual winding was rough and it runs fine in auto- very different parts of the movement.


exactly!! My problem was the manual wind that was awkward. However he told me to cancel the automatic so that the manual wind is fixed.. I realize now that this is stupid...
as posting continues here, I have trouble accepting that I can trust him anymore even he has done a good job with all my other watches..
 
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I’m not gonna crap on any watchmaker- these watches are 50 years old and parts are long NLA. To make matters worse, Zodiac decided to put their little spin on the movement and make the parts not compatible with the other AS variants- so sucks for us. My watchmaker had the same frustration- he ordered parts that “should” have been compatible according to the references- and weren’t. So I had to sources the right ones which took me some time.
 
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I’m not gonna crap on any watchmaker- these watches are 50 years old and parts are long NLA. To make matters worse, Zodiac decided to put their little spin on the movement and make the parts not compatible with the other AS variants- so sucks for us. My watchmaker had the same frustration- he ordered parts that “should” have been compatible according to the references- and weren’t. So I had to sources the right ones which took me some time.
Thanks man . I really didn’t mean to say bad words about anyone. The guy is good , and probably it’s not his fault entirely. I should ship the watch to a zodiac specialist from the first moment, or maybe it would be better if I had sent it back to the seller for a full refund... I still love it though... I would like to fix it so eventually I think that some zodiac experienced WM will see these posts, and help me
 
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Sounds like he was fed up anyway. Get another set of eyes on it.
 
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So this is half of the system- the flat gear is the other half of what was my grinding manual winding issue.

Dead Link/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122899206361

According to your parts sheet, this is 407, the flat gear was 410. Both of these your watchmaker changed....so unless you got the AS/GP part and not the Zodiac specific parts (as my watchmaker did) then they couldn’t even be fitted to the movement.

407 is the sliding pinion and 410 is the winding pinion.

There can be slippage between these two parts on the Wolf’s teeth that drive in one direction and slip in the other. These teeth are why you watch winds when you turn the crown clockwise, but it doesn’t wind when you turn it counter clockwise.

Zodiac parts are not easy to find from this era. The thing that usually frustrates me with these are the sealed mainspring barrels that are not meant to be opened...easily damaged if you try and extremely difficult to find any replacements.

Cheers, Al
 
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Recently found a broken sealed mainspring in a Tissot, too 🙁
 
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407 is the sliding pinion and 410 is the winding pinion.

There can be slippage between these two parts on the Wolf’s teeth that drive in one direction and slip in the other. These teeth are why you watch winds when you turn the crown clockwise, but it doesn’t wind when you turn it counter clockwise.

Zodiac parts are not easy to find from this era. The thing that usually frustrates me with these are the sealed mainspring barrels that are not meant to be opened...easily damaged if you try and extremely difficult to find any replacements.

Cheers, Al
That’s exaclty what was happening on mine. You would feel it start to wind then grind. If I gave it a few sideways rotations to get the rotor going after the service and wore it, it actually ran fine. But I wanted it whole- so tracked down the two parts. The hard to find is the issue. As I said earlier- everyone likes to think that since these movements are based on an AS movement, that said AS movement parts should be a drop-in, but apparently Zodiac did their own mods.
 
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407 is the sliding pinion and 410 is the winding pinion.

There can be slippage between these two parts on the Wolf’s teeth that drive in one direction and slip in the other. These teeth are why you watch winds when you turn the crown clockwise, but it doesn’t wind when you turn it counter clockwise.

Zodiac parts are not easy to find from this era. The thing that usually frustrates me with these are the sealed mainspring barrels that are not meant to be opened...easily damaged if you try and extremely difficult to find any replacements.

Cheers, Al
Out of curiosity- is the mainspring assembly in the 70-72 the same shared with the other AS 1687/88 based movements? At least if we know that part is common to them, then hunting down a new mainspring may not be such a nightmare.

It would be nice to know which AS parts actually are a plug & play for these 70-72 movements and not keep throwing parts at these watches hoping it works.
 
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I will see the watchmaker today , so I will post all the difficulties He encountered in a more detailed way.
Thank you all for helping and being so kind
 
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Your watchmaker has changed all the keyless works parts and the Problem remains. I think there can only be two problems left. The winding stem, or the pillar plate itself. Maybe someone has changed the winding stem in the past and used a wrong one from a Girard Perregaux, Cyma, Ebel or Doxa movement. They all seem the same, but are slightly different. The pillar plate can be worn out, so that the winding parts have to much play.
 
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Any particular technical hint to give you here, I only can say that some years ago I had exactly the same watch, bought online as non running, and it took 18 months and three different watchmakers to bring it back to life.
So, don’t give up 😀
 
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exactly!! My problem was the manual wind that was awkward. However he told me to cancel the automatic so that the manual wind is fixed.. I realize now that this is stupid...
as posting continues here, I have trouble accepting that I can trust him anymore even he has done a good job with all my other watches..
Both the crown (manual) winding and the auto system are trying to charge the barrel so, they are linked by definition so, not stupid. There are many ways to decouple these two systems and I don't know this calibre but, I would ask the watchmaker to:

Remove the auto system.
Is the manual wind now smooth? If so, then it's in the decoupling system or auto system.
If not, then the first issue is in the manual wind parts (some of which you've replaced).

If the problem is in the auto system (and I see you replaced the reversing wheels) then refit the auto bridge and check if the rotor spins when you manual wind - it shouldn't. After that, it's a case of reviewing each of the auto parts bearing in mind their function - assemble part by part and test - sometimes this is all you can do.

Good luck, Chris