Would you rather: entry-level high end or top-level low end?

[Matty01]

10k on 2-3 awesome vintage pieces, rest on travel…

 

[edwardcarnby]

Annapolis

I know this is a silly hypothetical where specifics matter, but I’m just curious, if anyone feels like responding.

Given the choice and, say, $30,000 to spend on a single watch.

Would you go for an entry-level Patek (for example) or a super-fancy Omega? If you have some kind of theoretical way of answering this question, I’m interested.

It doesn’t even have to be about watches: I could see this question applying to any number of things, from cars to dishwashers.

Depends what you have in your collection. If you will only have a single watch, I would buy something versatile like a Vacheron Constantin Overseas 3rd gen or a white gold Speedmaster (if price is right).

 

[High Hope]

From an automotive perspective, which, upon consideration applies to the watch question, I would always go with the lower end of a first class marque. You can option out a Camaro so that it’s faster and more expensive than certain Porsches, but in the end you have a Chevy. Few Chevies, besides oddball split window ‘63 Vettes and unobtanium big blocks, have the long term desirability (and driving enjoyment) of Porsche 911s or Aston Vantage V8s.

I’ll take the used Vantage for $40,000 Alex, and keep me away from those smoking hot Z28s and Mustangs.

 

[Waltesefalcon]

Classic used is the way to go. You won't see a watch made today that is as nicely finished as this 1917 Hamilton.

 

[DoctorEvil]

@Annapolis
It is an interesting question that you pose, and one that has caused me sleepless nights (only kidding!).
For me, it reminded me of the1990s when one could either get a base model BMW or Mercedes such as a 318i or 180E, or with the same amount of money go for a Subaru Impreza WRX. The Rex had much better performance and handling, but the German brands of course have the build quality and badge cachet. Personally, I'd rather get the Rex.
Similarly, from a horological standpoint, I'd much rather have the premium model of a mid tier luxury brand such as a Speedmaster Silver Snoopy, Ed White, Sub or GMT rather than the base model of a high end brand such as Patek, AP etc. Those watches speak to me a lot more than those from the high end brands.
At the end of the day, these are all emotive decisions and it all depends on what you value more.

 

[Braindrain]

DoctorEvil

For me, it reminded me of the1990s when one could either get a base model BMW or Mercedes such as a 318i or 180E, or with the same amount of money go for a Subaru Impreza WRX. The Rex had much better performance and handling, but the German brands of course have the build quality and badge cachet. Personally, I'd rather get the Rex.

Wait.... Germans had better build quality in the 90s?

Clearly, the ones I had must've all been made Monday morning.

 

[High Hope]

Braindrain

Wait.... Germans had better build quality in the 90s?

Clearly, the ones I had must've all been made Monday morning.

 

[ErichPryde]

Patek Pilot 5522A 2017 Special edition.

 

[watch_my_six]

Does this count as an entry-level high-end? Assuming this wouldn’t be my only watch, I would go for this ; )

Edited: Aug 30, 2023

 

[Arunski]

@Annapolis, I guess to answer your question IMHO it really depends what you personally love/like? For example, I am a big Speedmaster fan (have been ever since I have been a nipper) and hence would be therefore feel obliged to stick with my favorite watch brand.
Then if you got 30k to play with; why not have a look at your grail watch? [If you have one]. Mine for instance was finding a mint 321 vintage 105.03 for a reasonable price!
Unfortunately doesn’t exist but with Omega releasing the Ed White (my prays were answered after 35yrs).
So if you were also a Speedmaster fanboy like me then I would recommend getting hold of your dream
Movements/watch collection.

Ed White 14k
Snoooy 3 10k
9300 steel 7k

that way you have something unique, something classic (321) and something practically for your daily beater (9300 - bought in ‘07 - never serviced so far and water seals tested successfully last week ).

now I am trying to find excuses why I do NOT need a UltraDeep to go spearfishing & scuba diving
As 12k could also get me a Furuno ZTtouch3 & 6inch open radar for spotting birds

Edited: Aug 31, 2023

 

[ToddWard]

Honestly, it's a fun thought experiment! If I had that kind of budget, I'd lean towards the entry-level Patek. It's like having a piece of history on your wrist, and Patek's reputation is hard to beat. But hey, I totally get the allure of a super-fancy Omega too – they've got their own style and presence. It's about striking that balance between prestige and personal preference, whether it's watches, cars, or even dishwashers!

 

[Arunski]

ToddWard

Honestly, it's a fun thought experiment! If I had that kind of budget, I'd lean towards the entry-level Patek. It's like having a piece of history on your wrist, and Patek's reputation is hard to beat. But hey, I totally get the allure of a super-fancy Omega too – they've got their own style and presence. It's about striking that balance between prestige and personal preference, whether it's watches, cars, or even dishwashers!

don’t forget this is a very much a first world problem. enjoy what you like and live life to the fullest and love your loved ones. Who cares what others thing! If you love it, then I would say go for it! Enjoy in good health But I believe a lot of watch fanboys last few years has been more about financial gain than horological features

 

[Annapolis]

I’m starting to get the sense (after some casual conversations with Patek ADs recently) that there’s actually no such thing as an entry-level PP, if by entry-level one means a relatively (for the brand) affordable watch that a newcomer can obtain at retail.

I don’t think it was that long ago that you could find Calatravas available for on-the-spot purchase at an AD: I had an opportunity (I wasn’t in a position to act on) to pick up a 5196G in 2021. But now I’ve learned that all of the watches (maybe excepting some of the women’s pieces) are allocation only, and the 2 or 3 pieces they get each year (of each reference) are offered (only) to clients with massive spend histories. (“Seven figures,” is what I was told.)

I knew this was the case for Aquanauts and Nautiluses; apparently it’s now true for the other models as well. I’m sure there are exceptions—there’s always the story of that lucky fella who chatted up an SA in a good mood and walked out with a watch. But the days of entry-level Calatravas for any old Joe seem to be over, by and large.

The way I see it, then, is that the entry-level Calatrava doesn’t actually cost $30k—it costs $30k plus the million dollars you had to spend to get the privilege of buying it.

And if the only way to get one of those watches (short of the above option) is to pay 1.5x or more retail price for a flipped one… Well, the decision gets easier for me—I’ll go with the spendy Omega.

But yes, first world “problems,” for sure.

 

[DoctorEvil]

A Arunski

But I believe a lot of watch fanboys last few years has been more about financial gain than horological features

I'd have to second you on that one. Someone once said "If you want to get to the bottom of something, just follow the money". It's true. A lot of the social media influencers out there flexing watches have an ulterior motive, which is to drive up the value of their own pieces on the secondary market. Some are grey dealers themselves, so it's in their interests that the market stays hot.

 

[Arunski]

Annapolis

I’m starting to get the sense (after some casual conversations with Patek ADs recently) that there’s actually no such thing as an entry-level PP, if by entry-level one means a relatively (for the brand) affordable watch that a newcomer can obtain at retail.

I don’t think it was that long ago that you could find Calatravas available for on-the-spot purchase at an AD: I had an opportunity (I wasn’t in a position to act on) to pick up a 5196G in 2021. But now I’ve learned that all of the watches (maybe excepting some of the women’s pieces) are allocation only, and the 2 or 3 pieces they get each year (of each reference) are offered (only) to clients with massive spend histories. (“Seven figures,” is what I was told.)

I knew this was the case for Aquanauts and Nautiluses; apparently it’s now true for the other models as well. I’m sure there are exceptions—there’s always the story of that lucky fella who chatted up an SA in a good mood and walked out with a watch. But the days of entry-level Calatravas for any old Joe seem to be over, by and large.

The way I see it, then, is that the entry-level Calatrava doesn’t actually cost $30k—it costs $30k plus the million dollars you had to spend to get the privilege of buying it.

And if the only way to get one of those watches (short of the above option) is to pay 1.5x or more retail price for a flipped one… Well, the decision gets easier for me—I’ll go with the spendy Omega.

But yes, first world “problems,” for sure.

Not sure? I walked into the Breguet shop in Zurich Bahnhofstrasse and they said basically they do not do wait lists. If you want one then you order it and after it’s produced you get it! But at the same time I was invited to their new opening and one can try doing a manual dial with “engravings”
Made by a machine over 100 years old!
Similar to my experience with the “elusive”
Omegas! Remember a limit products is scare for a reason Eg u need to be a resident in CH get a Snoopy/Ed White easily)! I love Tassie whiskys but my fav distiller only makes so many bottles per cask hence it’s a ballot! 1 bottle gets 20k applications

 

[Zman4eva]

I vote JLC as well and take it a step further with the Rose gold perpetual calendar. I think retail is $40k but eBay lists them for about $20k. One of my trails.