What screwdriver for 1171 threaded pins?

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wagudc

·Dec 11, 2019

Hi all,

I recently accuired this 1171 bracelet with the trapazoid logo and the threaded screw pins. I would like to remove the last link, but the screw heads look a little iffy. What is the best screwdriver for these, and are there any tips for getting them out? Should I just wait until I can get to a professional watch maker?

 

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OMEGuy

·Dec 11, 2019

I believe the Bergeon 1 or 1,2 mm screwdriver will work, though the screws really look a little bit overused.

 

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wagudc

·Dec 11, 2019

OMEGuy

I believe the Bergeon 1 or 1,2 mm screwdriver will work, though the screws really look a little bit overused.

I agree about the overused part. I have another screw from a link I removed already that was in good shape. I was nervous to even try these because of their condition.

 

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MikiJ

·Dec 11, 2019

wagudc

I agree about the overused part. I have another screw from a link I removed already that was in good shape. I was nervous to even try these because of their condition.

Try a drop of oil first and let it penetrate a little. That might help a bad situation.

 

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wagudc

·Dec 15, 2019

OMEGuy

I believe the Bergeon 1 or 1,2 mm screwdriver will work, though the screws really look a little bit overused.

Screw was quite a bit bigger than 1mm, I ordered a 1.4 mm, but that might be too much. I had success with the second screw (more distant from clasp), but the first is quite rough. I will wait for the wider driver to arrive.

 

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JimInOz

·Dec 15, 2019·Melbourne Australia

I just checked on a vintage 1171.
The screws are 1.3mm ø, so a 140 screwdriver will be OK.

 

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wagudc

·Dec 15, 2019

JimInOz

I just checked on a vintage 1171.
The screws are 1.3mm ø, so a 140 screwdriver will be OK.

Thanks, the slot is much more like a V than an actual slot. Hopefully I can get it out.

 

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OMEGuy

·Dec 15, 2019

wagudc

Thanks, the slot is much more like a V than an actual slot. Hopefully I can get it out.

Good luck!

 

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Archer

·Dec 15, 2019·Omega Qualified Watchmaker

wagudc

Thanks, the slot is much more like a V than an actual slot. Hopefully I can get it out.

Make sure to fit the blade of the screwdriver to the slot properly to prevent cam out. Just buying the right width screwdriver isn't enough - you need to dress the driver to the slot.

 

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Dan S

·Dec 15, 2019

In this case, I'm going to recommend the use of a drill press, starting from the other end. 😀

 

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VetPsychWars

·Dec 15, 2019

Archer

Make sure to fit the blade of the screwdriver to the slot properly to prevent cam out. Just buying the right width screwdriver isn't enough - you need to dress the driver to the slot.

Oh how true this is. I can't tell you in whatever pursuit that a screwdriver not matching the screw has caused numerous issues. When you get down to watch-sized screws, it's even worse.

Tom

 

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wagudc

·Dec 15, 2019

Archer

Make sure to fit the blade of the screwdriver to the slot properly to prevent cam out. Just buying the right width screwdriver isn't enough - you need to dress the driver to the slot.

I'm new at this. I understand one can dress a driver to restore its original shape. Do you adjust the angle of the blade or blunt thickness to a particular screw? Do you have a way to measure the screw, or just view it under a scope?

 

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wagudc

·Dec 15, 2019

Just to clarify to the readers of the thread, I was not the trashed the screw heads in the first place.

 

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Archer

·Dec 16, 2019·Omega Qualified Watchmaker

wagudc

I'm new at this. I understand one can dress a driver to restore its original shape. Do you adjust the angle of the blade or blunt thickness to a particular screw? Do you have a way to measure the screw, or just view it under a scope?

As I said, the blade is dressed to fit the slot of the screws you are working on. If you are using a wedge style blade, then you want to dress the blade length and thickness so that the blade goes into the slot almost all the way, but doesn't touch the bottom of the slot. Ideally you want is just slightly above the bottom of the slot by maybe 0.05 mm or so...

 

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hoipolloi

·Dec 16, 2019

Sometimes they used Loctite ....🙁

 

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VetPsychWars

·Dec 16, 2019

hoipolloi

Sometimes they used Loctite ....🙁

I had to use my heat gun on my new Railmaster 57's bracelet to get a couple of the cap screws out.

Tom

 

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wagudc

·Dec 16, 2019

Archer

As I said, the blade is dressed to fit the slot of the screws you are working on. If you are using a wedge style blade, then you want to dress the blade length and thickness so that the blade goes into the slot almost all the way, but doesn't touch the bottom of the slot. Ideally you want is just slightly above the bottom of the slot by maybe 0.05 mm or so...

Thanks for sharing your expertise. If only everyone who laid hands on watches approached them with such care and precision as you use.

 

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gixxer47

·Dec 16, 2019

wagudc

Thanks for sharing your expertise. If only everyone who laid hands on watches approached them with such care and precision as you use.

I agree 100%
Its a shame when anyone who does it as a profession doesn't do any repair with care and precision.

 

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JwRosenthal

·Dec 17, 2019

On similar type gun screws and other antique watch bracelets I have soaked in penetrating oil overnight and as @Archer suggested- made sure I have made any modifications necessary to the blade to meet the head perfectly. Some of the flush-fit blued decorative screws on antique firearms- you only get one shot.
Holding the bracelet in a bench vice and the blade by a locking pliers has allowed me great control and slow application of downward force as I turn when necessary.
If you take it easy and slow and think it through before you have at it, it will come out easier than you think.

 

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wagudc

·Dec 18, 2019

Dan S

In this case, I'm going to recommend the use of a drill press, starting from the other end. 😀

I am afraid that you are right. Had the screw head not been completely FUBAR when I bought the bracelet I am sure that the advice here would have worked like a charm.