What is the genesis of the larger diameter watch trends?

Posts
6,787
Likes
21,962
Here's your chance to pontificate on non-Speedmaster content...

I was reading a post recently from a guy who no longer wears his Rolex Datejust, because at 36mm, it gets lost on his wrist.

30 years ago, I specifically recall a gent with the same model Rolex, and not a small guy either, who said that the Rolex was way too chunky to wear.

As you know, most of the major companies have bumped the diameter of most of their lines up.

So what happened in the intervening years? Men's dress watches were comfortably 32 to 33mm, and no one complained they were too small. Here are the three reasons I can come up with...would be curious what you think.

1) Culture has become more casual over the years, so sport watches became more popular, and were always larger, so "dressier" watches look less formal in a larger size, and grew to be less disparate than their brethren.

2) In general, tastes are less understated than they used to be. Bigger is better, extreme sports, etc. So the bigger watches make more of a statement than smaller ones do. Any surprise that female butts have reflected a similar aesthetic?

3) People are living longer than they used to, eyes are aging, larger dials are just simply easier to see.

What say you, sages?
 
Posts
12,738
Likes
17,245
1. Over the last 10-15 years, the overall trend in dress for both men and women in the workplace has trended casual. Suits and ties have given way to rolled up sportshirts and short sleeves (in summer, at least). This allows the larger watches to be worn at work. It's almost impossible to wear a 50mm watch with a closed cuff shirt.

2. Agree on the "bigger is better" trend. Although I think the trend in males is more about their own sexual displays to make themselves seem more attractive.

3. That's why they make glasses and Lasik.

gatorcpa
 
Posts
25,980
Likes
27,647
Both your #2 points are part of Peacock Syndrome.

BTW, sanely sized watches are due for a comeback which might be starting already.
 
Posts
17,746
Likes
26,929
I blame Stallone when he "rediscovered " Panari. Even staid traditional Rolex increased sizes starting about 5 years ago. I think we have hit peak size and are starting to go back. Even if Omega is fighting this.

My 1st gen POC at 45.5 is a big watch, but compared to the 2nd and now 3rd gen 45.5 PO's it seems/wears small. The newer ones are just ridiculously thick. I think we will be trending down and in 5-10 years the Speedy Professional will be considered a large watch again.
 
Posts
3,719
Likes
4,201
My mother asked me to replace the 22mm Constellation I gave her with a 26mm Aqua Terra, so for that example at least #3
 
Posts
1,440
Likes
3,772
I think this is happening because watches are not just a tools to measure time anymore. Person wearing the diver's watch probably never dove deeper than 3m, person wearing the pilot's watch has never been on the airplane, etc.
Person that wearing watch as a fashion accessory wants to cut other people's attention with something more than 33mm.This is my opinion on this. When I am wearing my Deville with casual close(t-shirt and jeans) it's just looks funny on my wrist. Rest of my watches are 38mm and up to 45mm (I have two diver's watches).
P.S. I belive 33mm is to small for any men, dress watches should start at 35mm.If you think of average wrist size for men would be around 185mm.So, it's about 65mm wide roughly. Wearing 33mm on your wrist wouldn't look right.



Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Posts
1,727
Likes
5,959
P.S. I belive 33mm is to small for any men, dress watches should start at 35mm.If you think of average wrist size for men would be around 185mm.So, it's about 65mm wide roughl. Wearing 33mm on your wrist wouldn't look right.

I beg to differ with my recent Longines from the 40s:



Mind you, my wrists are probably a bit smaller, and I do have watches ranging from 31-41mm. This would have been a 'sensible' size back in the day. If you look at all the military watches, they were roughly the same size too (barring pilot's watches.)

Men's dress watches were comfortably 32 to 33mm, and no one complained they were too small. Here are the three reasons I can come up with...would be curious what you think.

1) Culture has become more casual over the years, so sport watches became more popular, and were always larger, so "dressier" watches look less formal in a larger size, and grew to be less disparate than their brethren.

Yes, there has been a shift in culture, and it's not just with men wanting bigger things; women, too, have wanted to turn the society viewpoint that they are small and petite. Females wearing what we class as mid size watches now (and even larger) are accepted, and with that men's watches have gotten larger too.

2) In general, tastes are less understated than they used to be. Bigger is better, extreme sports, etc. So the bigger watches make more of a statement than smaller ones do. Any surprise that female butts have reflected a similar aesthetic?

Fashion statements are the rage these days. An Apple Watch uses a 20mm (22mm? Correct me here) wide strap. I can count the number of 20mm lug watches I have with one hand, and the number of 16-18mm with about three. Companies strive to make fashionable things afforable. Take a company like Daniel Wellington for example. Miyota quartz movements, 40 something mm case, 22mm lugs, no seconds hand; yet they sell heaps and heaps, and one of the parents at my workplace has one as he needed a 'dressier' watch. Girls wear them too, which really says, "I'm strong and I want you to know it."

3) People are living longer than they used to, eyes are aging, larger dials are just simply easier to see.

Yes that is true; when my mother's Fossil watch ran out of batteries and I offered to change it for her before her overseas trip, she picked up my Seamaster 30 and said "Oh, let me borrow this, it's big and easy for me to tell the time." Cue a momentary shudder through my brain.
 
Posts
1,440
Likes
3,772
I beg to differ with my recent Longines from the 40s:



Is it 33mm case??? I guess it is more of the personal preferences what size to wear.
Here is my summer beater:

c620e48dbef8ea7adf7dce1a14dba7da.jpg

I'm 185cm tall and a bit over 100kg, watches with case diameter smaller than 35mm on me, are looking like I borrowed them from my wife or something.


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Posts
307
Likes
230
I think the trend is starting to fall back down as the U-Boats of the world are becoming passe. I'm 6'1 235lbs with 7.5 inch wrists. I still wear my 34mm vintage dress watches to work and I think it looks "right." I think as our tastes mature, our need for size will be confined to a handful of pieces (divers/pilots). Despite the new Rolex 6-digit maxi cases, their insistence to stay at 40mm (for the most part) is very telling and a good indicator of future trends falling back to earth. Here's my 34mm Tudor being counter-culture.
 
Posts
1,727
Likes
5,959
Is it a 33mm case?

33mm including the crown, 31mm without.

Back to the topic - more people are obsessed over what looks good on others and getting the same or similar sort of thing. Me getting into watches was similar; I really wanted a TAG Heuer, so I got a birth year Formula 1. Walked to a collector's market right after getting a new battery and pressure test and bought a vintage watch with no band. "How do I put a band on?" And so on up to this stage. Rather than following I learnt instead. I would probably only have three watches now if that hadn't happened...
 
Posts
1,440
Likes
3,772
33mm including the crown, 31mm without.

Back to the topic - more people are obsessed over what looks good on others and getting the same or similar sort of thing. Me getting into watches was similar; I really wanted a TAG Heuer, so I got a birth year Formula 1. Walked to a collector's market right after getting a new battery and pressure test and bought a vintage watch with no band. "How do I put a band on?" And so on up to this stage. Rather than following I learnt instead. I would probably only have three watches now if that hadn't happened...
I had a long journey into the collectors' world, but I had never liked too small or too big watches. I would say 38mm is perfect size for me.
I am wearing my Seamaster with the formal attire to work. 35 mm just right for the dress watch, anything smaller is way to small for me.

48a0b60ce7540e9ef6a3d5ebde1783c3.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Posts
1,086
Likes
1,847
I think most people would be happy with a 34/36mm dress watch. According to a chap I met in the watch industry a few years ago the drive for an enormous wrist presence originated in the far East where it was seen as a status symbol. My own drift toward larger tool watches is mainly based on their history and design but I admit that my failing eyesight does play a part.
 
Posts
7,742
Likes
26,909
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned weight. In the U.S., roughly 70% of all Americans are now "overweight", and at least one out of every five people meet the clinical definition for obesity in all 50 states. The obesity rate is between 30 and 35 percent in 21 states.

In 1991, no state had a rate above 20 percent!

This sad trend has obviously been explosive in recent decades, and I don't believe that the rapid expansion of watch cases has been entirely coincidental.
 
Posts
1,863
Likes
4,861
I have a 7.5 inch wrist and find that 33-38 is perfect to my eye.
I have others at 40-44 (and have owned up to 60mm)
 
Posts
1,042
Likes
1,339
My first serious watch was a Breitling Premier re-edition, 37mm in size, followed by a Rolex Date 1550. Then I got a Speedmaster Professional in 2001. Initially, I thought the Speedmaster was ridiculously large and looked out of place on my 6.5 inch wrist, but as time went on it grew on me and the smaller watches looked out of place. The Premier gave way to a Grand Premier, which at 40mm was closer in size to the Speedmaster, and from there every watch was larger, with both the Premier and Date eventually being traded on a 44mm Panerai PAM116. Now, I'm starting to quit the largest in my collection and only keeping those 42mm or smaller. I'm even contemplating an early grail that is 38mm in size. It's odd somehow that just 7mm separates the smallest and largest I have ever owned, yet it seems significant - in other things I can't imagine that making a difference. Anyway, I haven't really added anything concrete in answering the OPs question, except I'll paraphrase a line from a classic Australian movie: "it's the vibe your honour!"
 
Posts
1,863
Likes
4,861
My first serious watch was a Breitling Premier re-edition, 37mm in size, followed by a Rolex Date 1550. Then I got a Speedmaster Professional in 2001. Initially, I thought the Speedmaster was ridiculously large and looked out of place on my 6.5 inch wrist, but as time went on it grew on me and the smaller watches looked out of place. The Premier gave way to a Grand Premier, which at 40mm was closer in size to the Speedmaster, and from there every watch was larger, with both the Premier and Date eventually being traded on a 44mm Panerai PAM116. Now, I'm starting to quit the largest in my collection and only keeping those 42mm or smaller. I'm even contemplating an early grail that is 38mm in size. It's odd somehow that just 7mm separates the smallest and largest I have ever owned, yet it seems significant - in other things I can't imagine that making a difference. Anyway, I haven't really added anything concrete in answering the OPs question, except I'll paraphrase a line from a classic Australian movie: "it's the vibe your honour!"

Reminds me of a line from another classic Aussie film, 'we're not here to f&@k spiders'

Not sure where this segue is going, but Iv owned 30-60 mm

Mostly tho I just wanted to get that line into the thread
 
Posts
1,042
Likes
1,339
Reminds me of a line from another classic Aussie film, 'we're not here to f&@k spiders'

Not sure where this segue is going, but Iv owned 30-60 mm

Mostly tho I just wanted to get that line into the thread

Point is Matty01, maybe the genesis is just what feels good at the time - fashions wax and wane.
 
Posts
1,863
Likes
4,861
Point is Matty01, maybe the genesis is just what feels good at the time - fashions wax and wane.
Yep, got that.

was meaning, not really sure where my segue was going...