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What is the genesis of the larger diameter watch trends?

Uniqez
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arcadelt arcadelt
My first serious watch was a Breitling Premier re-edition, 37mm in size, followed by a Rolex Date 1550. Then I got a Speedmaster Professional in 2001. Initially, I thought the Speedmaster was ridiculously large and looked out of place on my 6.5 inch wrist, but as time went on it grew on me and the smaller watches looked out of place. The Premier gave way to a Grand Premier, which at 40mm was closer in size to the Speedmaster, and from there every watch was larger, with both the Premier and Date eventually being traded on a 44mm Panerai PAM116. Now, I'm starting to quit the largest in my collection and only keeping those 42mm or smaller. I'm even contemplating an early grail that is 38mm in size. It's odd somehow that just 7mm separates the smallest and largest I have ever owned, yet it seems significant - in other things I can't imagine that making a difference. Anyway, I haven't really added anything concrete in answering the OPs question, except I'll paraphrase a line from a classic Australian movie: "it's the vibe your honour!"
I think it is a really good point, once you have some watches from the larger side, everything less than 35mm looks too small on your wrist.
Also, I notice that my Italian colleagues are wearing oversized watches a lot, primarily as a fashion accessory.

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gop76
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Trends come and go. We've already seen huge watches in the 70's...

The genesis of large diameter watches (wristwatches) can be found in the 43mm of the IWC Portuguese
 
Matty01
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Uniqez Uniqez
I think it is a really good point, once you have some watches from the larger side, everything less than 35mm looks too small on your wrist.
Also, I notice that my Italian colleagues are wearing oversized watches a lot, primarily as a fashion accessory.

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Ive found the opposite, started large, worked my way towards smaller, and on average, older
 
GuiltyBoomerang
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Speaking of Australian movie lines, Crocodile Dundee exemplifies this current trend of big watches:

 
SeanO
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GuiltyBoomerang GuiltyBoomerang
Speaking of Australian movie lines, Crocodile Dundee exemplifies this current trend of big watches:



"that's not a watch.... this is a watch"

I think that encapsulates the whole discussion right there.
 
RegF
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I don't own many vintage watches, but I don't hesitate to wear them because of their size - in fact they are similar to a couple of my Chinese pieces. Nomos is another brand that makes small cases

Similarly, I'm not put off a larger watch just because of its size

As long as it sit comfortably on my wrist and doesn't hang over, and there is some strap visible from above, then I'm fine with it.

Its how it looks to me and how comfortable I feel that matters.

I don't pretend to be terribly fashionable, though, so that may have an impact

As to the genesis

I think the Stallone/Schwarenegger effect - our societies cult of celebrity - and the peacock effect of wishing to be both the largest in the room (a la far east influence) is melding together in a fashion statement that has pervaded most brands.

Given that wristwatches evolved from pocket watches and the human wrist hasn't changed that much, Great Obesity Plague notwithstanding, then if a 33mm watch was fine in the 40's for the guys fighting a war, then there's nothing wrong with it now, other than people's perceptions.

Fashion has waxed and waned over the centuries in all areas of human attire.

Big watches are among some of the less objectionable silly things we've done.

Powedered Wigs are out, Codpieces are forgotten, U-Boat watches seem to be in decline.

I don't think it is eyesight -related as some of the largest diameter monsters are also among the least legible.
 
Tony C.
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titan2.jpg
 
Rman
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Hoorah for understated watches--- I'm finding that I'm still going smaller and getting more interested in yellow gold.
Why, when men are wearing clocks on their wrists, is a small gold watch considered flashy? Cause it's gold?
They also happen to be the best deal in watches at the moment.

So there is also a gold/understated/size paradox happening too.
 
noelekal
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6'3" and grateful I'm not compelled to wear anything larger than a Speedmaster.
 
Perseus
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I almost skipped over this thread and I'm glad I didn't!

I'm guessing the genesis of larger watches has some correlation with the relaxed office dress code and not being concerned about a watch fitting under a traditional shirt cough.
 
Mouse_at_Large
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I blame Peter Gabriel. He was in Genesis and released this 🤪


Then again, I might have misunderstood the question.......
 
voere
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Same as any other fashion trends change. Sooner or later smaller sized watches will be back in vogue I have some watches the are in the 44 to 50mm range however since I wear mostly vintage watches I have no issues with a 34mm watch size I have 7 1/2 wrist size and the 34mm size looks good to my eyes

Large cased watches been around for many decades
A. Lange & Sohne WW2 German Pilot watches were in the 55mm range specialty watch maybe large size yes
Edited:
 
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Northernman
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Freud might have had a thing or two to say on the matter. If anyone in here bought a watch because Stallone got one, I think paying one of Freuds currently active colleagues a visit is more than recommended. Just in case.

Being a Northern European with a 7 1/2" wrist I still enjoy wearing watches down to 32-33mm.

image.jpeg


The case/bezel/dial layout makes a huge difference in how they appear, and anyone who has not tried to wear one for a day or ten should try. It's really comfortable!

Having that said I started out in the 42-45mm size segment, but as my interest in vintage watches grew, so did also my appreciation for (much) smaller models.
I have got a 55mm Stowa Luftwaffe 1940s navigators watch. It is simply too much..... Half watch, half self defence weapon.
Seeing some people consider that an OK size to wear is simply silly IMHO.
image.jpeg
Edited:
 
Tony C.
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I most collect and wear 34-37mm watches, but here's a 30mm Longines "tre tacches" from 1937! So yes, my wrist is on the small side...🙄

LG36.jpg
 
yinzerniner
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The great majority of the "big watch" wave can be traced through the simple ebb and flow of fashion trends. Just look at this suit, which would be ridiculed as a sloppy mess today if it ever graced the James Bond form:
tumblr_nq0g9sYH2Z1s87pvxo1_1280.jpg

But simply put as a whole the average male height and weight has increased the past 50 years, and so too have watch sizes.

However, when it comes to appropriate proportions there's often a misconception of "XXmm watch for XX-inch wrist or X-foot XX inch and XXX pounds." Simply put the real only way to see if a watch is too big or too small is to wear it and either judge it oneself or through the esteemed knowledge of a trusted voice.
 
M'Bob
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yinzerniner yinzerniner
The great majority of the "big watch" wave can be traced through the simple ebb and flow of fashion trends. Just look at this suit, which would be ridiculed as a sloppy mess today if it ever graced the James Bond form:
tumblr_nq0g9sYH2Z1s87pvxo1_1280.jpg

Hmmm...I'm seeing pleats and hands in the pockets, a little cling to the thighs, hardly sloppy to my eye. But your point about watch size vs. wrist size is well taken: some of the posters on this thread have put pictures up of watches that on paper, should look too small, but they look great, so yes, the design and shape maybe equally important to how a watch presents as diameter.
 
yinzerniner
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M'Bob M'Bob
Hmmm...I'm seeing pleats and hands in the pockets, a little cling to the thighs, hardly sloppy to my eye. But your point about watch size vs. wrist size is well taken: some of the posters on this thread have put pictures up of watches that on paper, should look too small, but they look great, so yes, the design and shape maybe equally important to how a watch presents as diameter.
Shoulders and sleeves way too loose, pant legs too long and loose, jacket torso boxy as heck. Color, vest and lapels are perfect though, so I'm not a total hater.

But yes, it's refreshing that there's a trend back to vintage/timeless styles and sizes. I guess vulgarity has finally taken a backseat from the Hublot / Hummer H2 / Aflliction t-shirt days.
 
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