Hey guys,

I popped open my 2264.50 to see if it was a fake. Well, it is real. However, the battery fell out and I just put it back in. Works fine, but I touched it with my fingers. Now I am thinking about either reopening it and wiping it off with a lens cloth or just replacing the seal and battery and maybe wiping the contact with a little isopropyl.

Anybody know what battery this model takes?

Untitled by stoiclawyer, on Flickr

 

Read the maker name and model number on the cell that’s in it. Could well be a Renata 371 or 373 or the equivalent from another maker. Here is a cross reference chart.

http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/info-watch-battery-cross-reference

Not rocket science.

 

I’m pretty sure it’s ok to touch the battery.

 

Considering that these cells put out 1.55 volts at micromilliamps, event a slight surface coating from sweaty, greasy fingers can cause a coating that interrupts the flow of current. These cells should not be touched by fingers or metal tweezers (unless handled by the edges only, with tweezers). Plastic tweezers, or tissue that has not been impregnated with cold cream, only.

 

Nice watch. Dibs if you decide to sell it
: - )

 

Battery is a 395, use a Maxell SR927SW or a Seiko equivalent. Don't touch the battery with your bare fingers, you leave oil/sweat residue on the battery.

 

Ok I’m stupid.

 

Ok, then explain why the battery changes were fine during my college years?

 

..... in a vacuum chamber, in complete darkness, devoid of any gravity whatsoever.

 

Good news the watch is genuine. Bad news there is now a stronger likelihood of it letting in water!

The battery will be fine. Yes if you touch it the grease may mean it fails sooner but what is a few months from a 5-7 years life?

 

I'm pretty sure it's not.

Not sure where you got this information from, but it's not correct - should be a 371.

Please keep in mind that a specific movement can take more than one cell, and the specific cell it takes can be determined by how much room there is in the case. Since the 395 is 2.7 mm thick, and the 371 is only 2 mm thick, there is a chance you could damage the movement by using a cell that's too thick.

Cheers, Al

 

I do watch work for retail jewellers. Dozens of times each year I am sent quartz watches with the notation that the cell has been replaced, but the watch doesn’t run. Pull the cell and it tests okay. Wipe it off with a clean dry tissue, re-install it, give it a 1/4 turn back and forth to assure clean metal to metal contact, and test it for a few days. 75% of the time, that answers the problem. As to the assertion that “battery changes were fine during my college years”. I assume that comment was made to refute the assertion that cells should NOT be handled with the bare fingers? There are none so deaf as those who refuse to hear. Do as you wish.

 

I just searched the forum for Omega 2264.50 battery.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/newbie-questions-on-omega-seamaster.40366/#post-471800

 

And we all know that it must be right if you found it on the internet! Most of these that I run into use either the 371 or the slimmer 373. Depends on the movement in the watch.

 

I assumed it was a joke about what cold cream infused tissues were used for during his college years. @Meme-Dweller - if you plan on goofing off, please use the correct font and proper emoticon next time.

There are none so humorless as those who take everything seriously.

Okay, I should have known better than to enter a thread about watch batteries.

 

Curious, but the Extranet says 371 now - can't say what it said when I looked it up last time.

 

hahahaha! Funny that it WAS correct information, from Al himself as Jim showed:

Okay, now I'm really leaving this thread. I have enough irony in my diet already.

 

This may explain it. I don't know the difference with the cases though, I thought the ref no would only have one case size.

From the Cal 1538 tech bulletin.

 

The reference numbers listed there are the Omega part numbers for the batteries. The Cal. 1538 is used in a ton of different watches with different cases - from thin dressy watches to thicker divers. I don't do enough of these to know the cell by memory (not that I would trust anyway) so I always look up the watch reference when checking the battery type. I assume I would have done the same thing last time, so not sure why I said 395 last time - hey I never claimed to be perfect!

Cheers, Al

 

To revive this thread and for people's future reference to clear up the confusion about what battery is used for the watch in question...

I was looking through some documentation I downloaded from the Omega Extranet today (actually looking for something else) when I found a document with the file name "Batteriekäfig." Unsure of what that was really about I opened it to find the answers to the discrepancies posted in this thread.

I posted in the thread that Jim linked to above back in May of 2016 that the correct battery for this watch was the 395. but in October of 2016 Omega created the document I'm looking at right now, and in that document it says this:

"Due to a manufacturer-related modification of the battery shape, the positive battery contact cannot hold the new batteries safely in place and there is a risk that they will fall out after a shock to the watch. For this reason, the 395/399 battery is no longer recommended for Seamaster 300m and Aqua Terra models with calibre 1438 or 1538.

The 395/399 batteries are to be replaced by the thinner "Renata 371" battery and, a limiting spring Ref. 722520010601 should be added.

The recommended battery for all of the concerned models has also been updated in Extranet."

So this tells me why the battery is now listed as a 371 when I looked it up, when back in May of 2016 it was listed as a 395.

Hopefully if people now perform a search they will find this post and the updated battery information. Note that if you don't use Renata (and I don't), there's a good chance that the 395 battery will still work, but at least you know the 371 is safe when used with the retaining clip.

Cheers, Al