Watch authentication - a cautionary tale

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A thread about a bracelet possibly being fake (as determined by a watchmaker) reminded me of another incident that happened not long ago I wanted to share. I was contacted by someone for servicing of a newly acquired Planet Ocean with an 8500 movement, so an older model. But something in the description of the fault made me wonder...

The person had bought this watch privately, and had the watch authenticated at a local watchmaker's shop. The seller agreed to this without hesitation, and the watchmaker said the watch was completely authentic.

In the first email sent to me the buyer said that the quick set hour hand wasn't working, and that it was just changing the date. Well the hour wheel that provides the one hour incremental moves on these watches can wear out, but they don't typically fail in a manner that makes the watch a normal quick change date in position 2, so I had some doubts about the authenticity of the watch based on that single comment.

I simply replied asking for the serial number of the watch and nothing else, and when I pulled that up on the Omega Extranet, this was the result:



So not a PO...and now I have the task of telling someone that their watch is likely a fake. I took the time to explain how the hour wheel typically fails (lots of threads on here about that), and asked for photos of the watch and the movement through the case back. He sent me a second serial number that was on the movement - looked that up:



And the photo of the movement sealed the deal:



As is normally the case with these, no pivots in the jewels, wrong type of shock absorber, and whatever movement they were using under the fake cover didn't have the balance wheel visible, but the fake stud carrier has no stud in it, and no screw to hold the stud in place. Here's what it should look like in this area:



He told me who the shop was that authenticated the watch, and I went to their web page. On that page they claim to service Omegas regularly, but do not appear to be Omega certified, although the latter shouldn't really be required to spot things like jewels that are missing pivots.

The last I heard from the buyer is that the seller had agreed to refund the money, as they were not aware it was a fake watch. Since they had agreed to meet at the watchmaker of the buyer's choice, I'm inclined to believe that the seller was also duped. The buyer also said that they had contacted the watchmaker, and that they had apologized for the error.

So I guess I relay this story to let people know that if you are getting a watch authenticated, make sure you choose a reliable source for authentication. In this case some modern brand expertise would have helped in understanding that the date change wasn't of the correct type for this movement. The lack of pivots in the jewels is sort of inexcusable thing to miss for a watchmaker.

Cheers, Al
 
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This is the kind of stuff that scares me off the "pre-owned" market
 
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Totally inexcusable for a watchmaker. I assume he/she just took the $, had a quick glance, and - yep - looks ok!
 
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Totally inexcusable for a watchmaker. I assume he/she just took the $, had a quick glance, and - yep - looks ok!

I didn't ask if they charged for the authentication, and the buyer didn't offer that information.

Personally, I don't offer that as a service, although I will certainly give my opinion if asked. To me, if you are offering a service for money, you had better be 100% sure of what you are authenticating, and it implies some responsibility on your part if you are wrong. I have confidence in many Omega models, but for other brands that I would not see regularly, I would even hesitate to offer an opinion on those.

I was offered payment by the buyer for assisting him, but to me as long as he gets his money back I'm happy - I don't need to be paid for this. Hopefully one less fake on the market, and a watchmaker that will be more careful next time...
 
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Conversely, an Omega AD once (politely) attempted to inform me that my NEW321 was a franken/fake - which is a similar cautionary tale about “expertise.”

Upon receiving my NEW321 by mail, I brought it to a local Omega AD for assistance in sizing the bracelet. The watch spent several minutes “in back” before the salesperson returned with the watch and a rather awkward set of questions “from the watchmaker” regarding where I may have purchased the watch, etc, and ultimately signaling a lack of the watchmaker’s certainty that this watch was authentic - the watchmaker had never seen or heard of a Speedmaster such as this.

Easy to mistake professionals with experts, I suppose is the caution.
 
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This happened to me a few years ago, but with a Rolex sub… Still trying to get my money back🙁
 
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Buy from AD or boutique. No issues.

So, you don't want a market for the watches you may want to sell in the future?

There's nothing wrong with buying second hand, either modern or vintage (vintage it's really the only way). You just have to be smart about it. For example I probably would follow your advice if I were after a modern Tag, because there are some really good fakes out there right now, and I would have little confidence in buying one used (not a brand I have expertise on in spotting fakes).

If you educate yourself, and get good advice from knowledgeable people, it can be completely safe.
 
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Easy to mistake professionals with experts, I suppose is the caution.

Over the last couple of years there is no word more damaged than that of 'expert'. We have seen the damage the 'experts' have done to our way of life. Anytime I see the word now my BS generator is activated, most 'experts' are anything but. IMO.
 
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Over the last couple of years there is no word more damaged than that of 'expert'. We have seen the damage the 'experts' have done to our way of life. Anytime I see the word now my BS generator is activated, most 'experts' are anything but. IMO.

I dunno what all of that means but I know I'd rather drop my watch off with a watchmaker when it needs a service, see a doctor when I'm sick, take my car to a mechanic when it isn't working well, consult a lawyer if I need legal advice, and so on, than rely on a random stranger off the street or on the internet... That's not to say all professionals are experts or all experts have proper expertise (as cvalue13 and Archer have outlined and this thread clearly illustrates), but I, for one, am thankful that we have experts to turn to when needed. Of course, YMMV.
 
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A thread about a bracelet possibly being fake (as determined by a watchmaker) reminded me of another incident that happened not long ago I wanted to share. I was contacted by someone for servicing of a newly acquired Planet Ocean with an 8500 movement, so an older model. But something in the description of the fault made me wonder...

The person had bought this watch privately, and had the watch authenticated at a local watchmaker's shop. The seller agreed to this without hesitation, and the watchmaker said the watch was completely authentic.

In the first email sent to me the buyer said that the quick set hour hand wasn't working, and that it was just changing the date. Well the hour wheel that provides the one hour incremental moves on these watches can wear out, but they don't typically fail in a manner that makes the watch a normal quick change date in position 2, so I had some doubts about the authenticity of the watch based on that single comment.

I simply replied asking for the serial number of the watch and nothing else, and when I pulled that up on the Omega Extranet, this was the result:



So not a PO...and now I have the task of telling someone that their watch is likely a fake. I took the time to explain how the hour wheel typically fails (lots of threads on here about that), and asked for photos of the watch and the movement through the case back. He sent me a second serial number that was on the movement - looked that up:



And the photo of the movement sealed the deal:



As is normally the case with these, no pivots in the jewels, wrong type of shock absorber, and whatever movement they were using under the fake cover didn't have the balance wheel visible, but the fake stud carrier has no stud in it, and no screw to hold the stud in place. Here's what it should look like in this area:



He told me who the shop was that authenticated the watch, and I went to their web page. On that page they claim to service Omegas regularly, but do not appear to be Omega certified, although the latter shouldn't really be required to spot things like jewels that are missing pivots.

The last I heard from the buyer is that the seller had agreed to refund the money, as they were not aware it was a fake watch. Since they had agreed to meet at the watchmaker of the buyer's choice, I'm inclined to believe that the seller was also duped. The buyer also said that they had contacted the watchmaker, and that they had apologized for the error.

So I guess I relay this story to let people know that if you are getting a watch authenticated, make sure you choose a reliable source for authentication. In this case some modern brand expertise would have helped in understanding that the date change wasn't of the correct type for this movement. The lack of pivots in the jewels is sort of inexcusable thing to miss for a watchmaker.

Cheers, Al

Thanks for sharing this Al, it is interesting to see the two photos of the movement for comparison. The low quality of the finish on the fake movement seems to be another give away, but then it might be difficult to spot without a direct comparison.

I once purchased a Cartier, which turned out fake when the watchmaker opened it for service. Luckily I could return it and was refunded. Not sure the guy know about it or not, he immediately accepted the feedback that the watch was fake which made me think he knew about it and just tried….

best,

Stefan
 
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Now I'm worried about the Railmaster I bought on C24 last year. There were no movement pictures with the sale so I took it to a reputable Omega Authorised watchmaker in Hatton Garden. They took it to the workshop while I waited and returned a couple of minutes later saying that because the model was new Omega had not yet supplied them with the correct tool for opening (presumably because the watch would still be under warranty and therefore any problem it would go back to Switzerland). They did however tell me that they tested the beat rate and it was correct for the model and therefore they were confident it was right.

Should I now be worrying?
 
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Buy from AD or boutique. No issues.
You know of ADs that have late 1950s Conquest 9020s in the display cases? Now I don't have to waste my time educating myself on the reference, sweet!
 
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You know of ADs that have late 1950s Conquest 9020s in the display cases? Now I don't have to waste my time educating myself on the reference, sweet!
I was referring to the fake planet ocean. Buy a new one from an AD or boutique, don’t bother with older models.
 
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Also do not ask Facebook groups to authenticate your watch lol... I have seen legits called fakes, and fakes called legits.

Also, note that AD's have zero clue on anything more than 2 years old.
 
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Also do not ask Facebook groups to authenticate your watch lol... I have seen legits called fakes, and fakes called legits.

Also, note that AD's have zero clue on anything more than 2 years old.
Agreed
 
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I was referring to the fake planet ocean. Buy a new one from an AD or boutique, don’t bother with older models.

The only problem with that is some of us, probably not many, don't have any interest in watches made in the last fifty years.
 
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So, you don't want a market for the watches you may want to sell in the future?

There's nothing wrong with buying second hand, either modern or vintage (vintage it's really the only way). You just have to be smart about it. For example I probably would follow your advice if I were after a modern Tag, because there are some really good fakes out there right now, and I would have little confidence in buying one used (not a brand I have expertise on in spotting fakes).

If you educate yourself, and get good advice from knowledgeable people, it can be completely safe.

Even with a lot of homework I would get caught out on modern Rolex/Omega superfakes. As for vintage, I don’t have the artistic detailed eye to spot redials. Better for me to purchase a couple of watches from an authorised source and get them serviced this way also.