Watch authentication - a cautionary tale

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A couple years back there was a pic of a legit ploprof and a fake ploprof. This was the 2009 steel version, so no sapphire case back. In the pic is was almost impossible to tell the difference. The obvious tell was the buckle, and that the etched serial number was a fake. I suspect the sapphire case backs are now the new norm due to how well they can make replicas.

Thank you for sharing.
 
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A thread about a bracelet possibly being fake (as determined by a watchmaker) reminded me of another incident that happened not long ago I wanted to share. I was contacted by someone for servicing of a newly acquired Planet Ocean with an 8500 movement, so an older model. But something in the description of the fault made me wonder...

The person had bought this watch privately, and had the watch authenticated at a local watchmaker's shop. The seller agreed to this without hesitation, and the watchmaker said the watch was completely authentic.

In the first email sent to me the buyer said that the quick set hour hand wasn't working, and that it was just changing the date. Well the hour wheel that provides the one hour incremental moves on these watches can wear out, but they don't typically fail in a manner that makes the watch a normal quick change date in position 2, so I had some doubts about the authenticity of the watch based on that single comment.

I simply replied asking for the serial number of the watch and nothing else, and when I pulled that up on the Omega Extranet, this was the result:



So not a PO...and now I have the task of telling someone that their watch is likely a fake. I took the time to explain how the hour wheel typically fails (lots of threads on here about that), and asked for photos of the watch and the movement through the case back. He sent me a second serial number that was on the movement - looked that up:



And the photo of the movement sealed the deal:



As is normally the case with these, no pivots in the jewels, wrong type of shock absorber, and whatever movement they were using under the fake cover didn't have the balance wheel visible, but the fake stud carrier has no stud in it, and no screw to hold the stud in place. Here's what it should look like in this area:



He told me who the shop was that authenticated the watch, and I went to their web page. On that page they claim to service Omegas regularly, but do not appear to be Omega certified, although the latter shouldn't really be required to spot things like jewels that are missing pivots.

The last I heard from the buyer is that the seller had agreed to refund the money, as they were not aware it was a fake watch. Since they had agreed to meet at the watchmaker of the buyer's choice, I'm inclined to believe that the seller was also duped. The buyer also said that they had contacted the watchmaker, and that they had apologized for the error.

So I guess I relay this story to let people know that if you are getting a watch authenticated, make sure you choose a reliable source for authentication. In this case some modern brand expertise would have helped in understanding that the date change wasn't of the correct type for this movement. The lack of pivots in the jewels is sort of inexcusable thing to miss for a watchmaker.

Cheers, Al
Scary stuff.
 
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Even with a lot of homework I would get caught out on modern Rolex/Omega superfakes. As for vintage, I don’t have the artistic detailed eye to spot redials. Better for me to purchase a couple of watches from an authorised source and get them serviced this way also.
I think it all comes down to comfort zones. Some of us enjoy the hunt for vintage and the education on how to spot the good from the bad is part of the fun. I actually find it much easier to spot a fake vintage piece than a new one (as I have little interest in newer watches, my lack of education would be my downfall).
If I were in the market for a newer $$$$ watch, I too would probably just go to an authorized dealer and take out the risk factor. Not worth being penny wise and pound foolish.
 
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I think it all comes down to comfort zones. Some of us enjoy the hunt for vintage and the education on how to spot the good from the bad is part of the fun. I actually find it much easier to spot a fake vintage piece than a new one (as I have little interest in newer watches, my lack of education would be my downfall).
If I were in the market for a newer $$$$ watch, I too would probably just go to an authorized dealer and take out the risk factor. Not worth being penny wise and pound foolish.
Or take it to an AD for authentification?
 
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Or take it to an AD for authentification?
If only it was that simple, these fakes can be very advanced. Unless the AD is very experienced they can miss the details.
 
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If only it was that simple, these fakes can be very advanced. Unless the AD is very experienced they can miss the details.

I agree some fakes are really good but not Omegas. The super fakes are mostly Rolex, AP, Panerai. The omegas are still rather easy to spot with detailed pictures or in person examination. It also comes down to years in the hobby. You handle enough luxury pieces you can tell 95% of fakes right off the bat. The finishing of luxury pieces are so good, it's hard to trick an experienced collector. Some Rolexes I've seen though, they're scary good.
 
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I agree some fakes are really good but not Omegas. The super fakes are mostly Rolex, AP, Panerai. The omegas are still rather easy to spot with detailed pictures or in person examination. It also comes down to years in the hobby. You handle enough luxury pieces you can tell 95% of fakes right off the bat. The finishing of luxury pieces are so good, it's hard to trick an experienced collector. Some Rolexes I've seen though, they're scary good.
I am sure the 8500 earlier in this thread would of had most people fooled, Even some more experienced members can miss small details in movements and dials.
 
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I am sure the 8500 earlier in this thread would of had most people fooled, Even some more experienced members can miss small details in movements and dials.

Yeah I can see that. I have an 8500 so I'm biased. I'm horrible with vintage though. Matching cases, dials and movements together is tough. I'm still learning but I feel like there is so much to know that its a life long journey.
 
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I agree some fakes are really good but not Omegas. The super fakes are mostly Rolex, AP, Panerai. The omegas are still rather easy to spot with detailed pictures or in person examination. It also comes down to years in the hobby. You handle enough luxury pieces you can tell 95% of fakes right off the bat. The finishing of luxury pieces are so good, it's hard to trick an experienced collector. Some Rolexes I've seen though, they're scary good.

I'm actually kind of think the shoe is going to drop in vintage rolex at some point. If you believe some people out there, probably half the super rare vintage watches out there came from the incredible super-fake artisans in Vietnam.
 
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Now I'm worried about the Railmaster I bought on C24 last year. There were no movement pictures with the sale so I took it to a reputable Omega Authorised watchmaker in Hatton Garden. They took it to the workshop while I waited and returned a couple of minutes later saying that because the model was new Omega had not yet supplied them with the correct tool for opening (presumably because the watch would still be under warranty and therefore any problem it would go back to Switzerland). They did however tell me that they tested the beat rate and it was correct for the model and therefore they were confident it was right.

Should I now be worrying?

Modern Omega Coaxials run at 25,200 bph. From my knowledge, of the most popular superclone factories out there, none of them make fake coaxial movements with a 25,200 beat rate. They tend to use ETA 28,800 variants instead. Cheaper fakes will have a Seiko or Miyota 21,600/28,800 variant. The only Coaxials that didnt have a 25,200 beat rate would be the early iterations of the cal. 2500, so be extra cautious with these ones. For every other Coaxial caliber, if youre ever unsure about it, ask for a picture of the watch beside a timegrapher and look for a 25,200 beat rate. Anything else is a fake. There are free timegrapher phone apps that can also be used (they suck overall, but they can still get an accurate beat rate). If the seller is honest, they likely wouldnt mind downloading the app to show you.

This is one huge advantage Omega has over Rolex against the fake market. Of course, this doesnt eliminate the possibility of a "franken fake". Since superclones have almost 1:1 cases, it would be possible to swap a genuine Omega Coaxial into the fake. The disincentive would be that the seller would need to procure genuine movements and greatly reduce their margins making it much less profitable.
 
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Did this watch come with paperwork? Also, I’m assuming that ability to look up serials is because you’re an Omega certified watchmaker, right?
 
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I started following "rep" communities because of this, to be aware which models are faked, to stay away from them etc. - but at this point I just want to puke, they pay $400+ for these hyper realistic clones, some idiots pay $1000+ for modified fake Rolex'es, it just makes 0 sense considering you can buy their vintage counterparts in very good condition for less in both cases

It fills the world with thrash and destroys the brands they envy
 
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I started following "rep" communities because of this, to be aware which models are faked, to stay away from them etc. - but at this point I just want to puke, they pay $400+ for these hyper realistic clones, some idiots pay $1000+ for modified fake Rolex'es, it just makes 0 sense considering you can buy their vintage counterparts in very good condition for less in both cases

It fills the world with thrash and destroys the brands they envy

Not that I disagree with you that they are trash, but please show me where I can buy vintage Rolex's in very good condition for $1000 😉
 
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Not that I disagree with you that they are trash, but please show me where I can buy vintage Rolex's in very good condition for $1000 😉

You just need to get as close to where the sun rises 😀
 
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You just need to get as close to where the sun rises 😀



Well, yes, but I was singed a few times and have never been back.😉