Vintage Seamaster Legit or Frankenwatch?

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I wasn't suggesting that. I was just saying that when the crystal is so scratched up, it can make the printing look bad and uneven by causing distortion, even if the dial is good. So it's hard to judge the dial.

Ok thanks for clarifying.
My reasons for thinking it a redial:
1. The "swiss made T" doesn't look quite right.
2. If it is right, there should be tritium lume on the dial.
3. Tritium doesn't usually turn completely black, & the lume in those hands looks black, like Radium goes.

It also may be that the dial is original, but has had a cleaning. After the cleaning they decided to reprint the "swiss made T", but not replace the lume.
The pics just aren't good enough to be sure either way.
We'll just have to wait for a watchmaker to dismantle it. Please, ask for pictures to be taken, or to take them yourself, of the inside caseback, movement, & bare dial.

Thanks for the observations. I certainly wondered why there would be no lume on a dial with Swiss T written on it. I came up with a theory that “T Swiss T” meant lumed dial and hands whereas “Swiss T” indicated just the hands had lume on it. I could find no corroboration of this theory at all however.

I always suspected the hands were not original, If it is radium inside instead of tritium I guess I was correct.
 
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Swiss made T can denote only tritium on hands... rare... and anecdotal evidence is the single T denotes only the hands and not the dial.

Tritium can go and will go black.

Theoretically it could be in the window for radium with that logo.

Hence the need to see inside, so the watch can be dated and checked vs known variants and labeling in that time period.


If it is a redial it’s darn good. And the watch is very good looking.

Thanks for the interesting information. I agree on the looks. I just need to figure out a nice strap for it.

I used to think the same thing until a few veterans corrected me years ago. Whether there is one T or two T's depends on the amount of tritium lume used on the display (dial, hands, markers, etc.). Now, it makes sense that if only the hands have lume, then one T would be used, but not always. I can't quote you the actual quantity, but there was a line that if the amount went above that limit, two T's were used regardless of where the luminous material was. And yes, tritium lume can get very dark.

I think radium stopped being used in favor of tritium around this period too (early 60's), but maybe a Speedmaster guy can be more definitive about that. @Spacefruit @gemini4 - can either of you help out on the luminous material switch?

Also, if I were wagering I'd be betting that's an original dial. If not, that's an excellent reproduction of the coat hanger S from that era.

I appreciate your input. It would be really cool if you were right about the diaI, I’d always be extra happy to look at it and know it’s a survivor. I like this watch, and I doubt it’ll ever be worth enough for me to sell, it reminds me of my dad when I was a kid.
 
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I used to think the same thing until a few veterans corrected me years ago. Whether there is one T or two T's depends on the amount of tritium lume used on the display (dial, hands, markers, etc.). Now, it makes sense that if only the hands have lume, then one T would be used, but not always. I can't quote you the actual quantity, but there was a line that if the amount went above that limit, two T's were used regardless of where the luminous material was. And yes, tritium lume can get very dark.

I think radium stopped being used in favor of tritium around this period too (early 60's), but maybe a Speedmaster guy can be more definitive about that. @Spacefruit @gemini4 - can either of you help out on the luminous material switch?

Also, if I were wagering I'd be betting that's an original dial. If not, that's an excellent reproduction of the coat hanger S from that era.

Thanks for clarifying what the single T means.

I think we are agreeing. It is possible for lumed hands non lumed dial to leave the factory. Rare but possible.

The single “t” may or may not denote this hence I said anecdotal evidence.

😀

Also imho it looks legit.
Edited:
 
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I know I’m dragging up a long dead thread, but I finally took the Seamaster to a watchmaker. The Movement looks brand new. The watch master had never seen a case like it before. It has “Ross” written on it which I gather means it was cased in the US. The movement is a 550.

I took a couple of pictures of the case back and movement.
 
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Yes, a US case LL6287, caliber 550 is correct. Serial number dates to ca 1961.
 
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I know I’m dragging up a long dead thread, but I finally took the Seamaster to a watchmaker. The Movement looks brand new. The watch master had never seen a case like it before. It has “Ross” written on it which I gather means it was cased in the US. The movement is a 550.

I took a couple of pictures of the case back and movement.

You should counsel your watchmaker and explain the drawbacks of resting the dial on a blob of dirty Rodico.
 
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Seemed strange to me, but all I know about watchmaking is I shouldn't try it