It’s the quarter the case was made in, more or less.

 

This ^

 

I see, thank you, I learnt something today.

In this case, the caseback isn't legit as well.

 

Yup, the unaligned font. Thats the main reason I posted here to ask for advices

Thank you again

 

You’re instincts were good- keep following them. If it feels off, it most likely is

 

I still have much more to learn, appreciate the contribution of members for sharing knowledges and educating us, so that we could staying away from paying noob tax.

Thank you for making OF a great place.

Cheers

 

After a while it becomes like spotting refinished or reproduction furniture. You know something is off at a distance, and when you get closer you know it for sure. Trying to describe it to a layman garners blank stares, but you see enough real ones, you can spot the problem ones easily.

 

How much I wish I possess such eyes, I guess it takes years to build, and to be frank, i started collecting vintage watch few years ago, so i guess my problem is "not seeing enough real ones" hahaha

You know, so many redial and franken out there.. sometimes i just don't know where to look. But OF is a great place, everytime i look up a ref, it gives me a lot of information

 

I think the crown is also fake.

 

Companies like Rolex and Omega (actually pretty much every major production watch company) were very consistent with QC when it came to typeface, dial finish and layout. There were periodic changes as models changed or different vendors were used for the parts, but these were always changes made en mass. There are fluke variations, but they are pretty well documented. There are the rare redials that are so good they can fool 90% of collectors- some weren’t done to deceive, there were just some very good artisans out there who did redialing for watchmakers professionally.

Look at tons of pictures, reputable sources and known originals and really scrutinize the details. You will see lots of similarities (serifs or non serif, case finishing, placement of indices and hash marks).
It’s like sorting coins. They all look alike with slight variations in patina or tone- but they were stamped out- they all look the same. When you quickly glance one that looks out of place, it catches your eye. The same will come with spotting watches.

 

too beat up. too many red flags.

run away very quickly.

scream like a little girl if you must but get away.

there's much better places to spend that money.

like Florida swampland.

or a Timex

 

If you want a sensational 34mm oyster with no guessing and no worries- get this one.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/rolex-airking-ref-5500-circa-1974-very-good-condition.131007/

 

Redone dial. Bracelet may be real.

 

and its prettier too!

 

Apologies for the late reply, and thank you very much for the tips, I will bear them in mind. I'll surely pass on this one

Appreciate the long text for sharing. It definitely helps noob like me.

 

Hi

IMHO

the serial number / ref number on the upper part between the lugs , suggests watch is pre 1961 , a non dated caseback means post 1973 .. , dial is refinished with wrong TswissT instead of Swiss (only). Caliber should be 1225 for this 6694 ref.

best

Ara M

 

My first question, why do you want this particular watch? It has case issues, potential dial and movement issues, bracelet issues, looks like moisture has caused corrosion issues. The corrosion issues would have probably affected the dial and hands. If you want a vintage watch , you should work with a dealer who sells vintage watches. The vintage dealer can show you high quality photos of not just the watch you may be purchasing, but high quality photos of the same reference so you can compare the quality you are paying for.