Vintage pocket watch desk candy recommendation?

Benbradstock · Jan 11, 2021

Happy Monday all,

I love the beauty and craftsmanship of vintage pocket watches, and I know that they are often comparative bargains next to their wristwatch cousins.

I’d like to find a nice one for not more than $250 to keep on my desk, but I don’t really know where to start. Off the top of my head, I’m partial to Omega, Zenith and Longines, and am flexible on case material.

I know a decent amount about vintage wristwatches, but next to nothing about pocket watches. Can anyone recommend particular brands and models which might be a good fit for me? And perhaps some tips on what to avoid?

Thanks in advance for any advice…

Canuck · Jan 11, 2021

Avoid buying $250.00 pocket watches when you “know next to nothing about pocket watches”. Unless you are prepared to use the one you buy as a paper weight! Allow for the fact that when you buy something from a prominent maker, you’ll need to have it serviced most likely. Even with a decent watch in that price range (should you find a decent one in that price range), by the time you have it serviced, it’s a $500.00 watch. Do you have the stomach for that?

Benbradstock · Jan 11, 2021

Thanks for the reply.

I am a serious vintage wristwatch enthusiast, own several (including pricey ones), and have studied diligently. I am aware that a vintage pocket watch may require servicing, although ideally I’d prefer something which is already running well, so that I might have the option to wait six months or a year after getting it before servicing.

I was hoping for some brand and model recommendations from pocket watch aficionados on OF, and if there are any pitfalls to look out for, specific to pocket watches.

Canuck · Jan 11, 2021

If someone were to ask you the same type of question regarding taking a chance on a $250.00 wrist watch, how would you answer the question. Same basic rules apply to buying pocket watches. Know something about them, and learn to judge condition.

Benbradstock · Jan 11, 2021

Canuck
If someone were to ask you the same type of question regarding taking a chance on a $250.00 wrist watch, how would you answer the question. Same basic rules apply to buying pocket watches. Know something about them, and learn to judge condition.

Thanks; I did consider that idea. However, I figured that part of the appeal of pocket watches is that they offer a better value proposition than wrist watches. Therefore, I figured for around $250 I might be able to get the equivalent of $400 or $500 in wristwatch money. And in that case, if someone asked me the same question, I would tell them to carefully and patiently hunt for a mid 1960s stainless Omega Geneve or Seamaster in clean, original, working order. Cheers.

Canuck · Jan 11, 2021

I guess the answer is to check around at prices of name brand and off brand watches. PM the seller and ask about condition and return policy. Buy it, then have it checked out, and return it if you don’t like what you hear.

DaveK · Jan 12, 2021

I’m newer to pocket watches than many folks on the forum, but here’s some avenues to explore:

- PWs do make great eye candy in a stand or display case, so maybe you want an evocative piece that works, but no need to service it if you are just looking at it. Deco style PWs are dope for decor

- American PWs are generally regarded as better quality than European ones. With many exceptions of course. Railroad approved American PWs though, are second to none for the most part

- yep, there are redials out there

- if there is radium on a PW, then there will be A LOT of it. Be careful

- smaller size 12 gentlemen’s style watches have a lot of class, larger size 16 watches will get you into the railroaders. So, a gents dress watch or a working mans watch are avenues to explore

- there are private label PWs out there, where a jeweller would order, for example, Omega, Longines or Waltham PWs, and put their own name on the dial and movement (maybe the maker wouldn’t sign the movement either). Ball watches being the most famous of these on a large scale. These private labels can be a lot of fun to collect because you could get a private label from your home town, or where you got married etc

- check out https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums and https://vintagewatchforums.com/

STANDY · Jan 12, 2021

If it’s for your desk.

Ships chronometer is what you need....

A bit more expensive than you want but a Pic borrowed from one of @Bill Sohne s FS Threads for reference

Dan S · Jan 12, 2021

I like @STANDY's idea for a display piece, since the naval chronometer has more presence than a PW. @DaveK is also right-on with respect to his comparison of American and Swiss PWs. If you want to start with a nice piece, I would consider a railroad grade American watch (Illinois, Waltham, Hamilton, etc.). You will need to do some research to decide which one you prefer (and to learn to identify original parts) and you will probably need to double your budget, but it could be a real collector piece instead of just a standard PW. Jones & Horan auctions are a good place to look.

connieseamaster · Jan 12, 2021

Not that into pocketwatches other than making appropriate noises when my dad shows off his new finds. My personal favorite, just based on movement decoration, is a high grade Elgin movement from about 1890-1910.

I would also suggest a deck watch (ie Hamilton Model 22) if you want something with more presence but not as big as a chronometer+box

Tony C. · Jan 12, 2021

There are plenty of attractive, good quality pocket watches that can be bought inexpensively. But using them regularly without a service would not be wise.

gatorcpa · Jan 12, 2021

Tony C.
There are plenty of attractive, good quality pocket watches that can be bought inexpensively. But using them regularly without a service would not be wise.

Here’s one now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114617407122

If you can buy it cheap enough, you can get a new bow for the case, a good service and a display dome for well under your budget.

Good luck with your search.
gatorcpa

Canuck · Jan 12, 2021

connieseamaster
Not that into pocketwatches other than making appropriate noises when my dad shows off his new finds. My personal favorite, just based on movement decoration, is a high grade Elgin movement from about 1890-1910.

I would also suggest a deck watch (ie Hamilton Model 22) if you want something with more presence but not as big as a chronometer+box

A Hamilton model 22 is a prime collectible. Open the exchequer if you find one, and decide to buy it!

DaveK · Jan 12, 2021

Dan S
I like @STANDY's idea for a display piece, since the naval chronometer has more presence than a PW. @DaveK is also right-on with respect to his comparison of American and Swiss PWs. If you want to start with a nice piece, I would consider a railroad grade American watch (Illinois, Waltham, Hamilton, etc.). You will need to do some research to decide which one you prefer (and to learn to identify original parts) and you will probably need to double your budget, but it could be a real collector piece instead of just a standard PW. Jones & Horan auctions are a good place to look.

Thanks for the tip, I’ve just signed up for the Jones & Horan auctions mailing list.

amcclell · Jan 12, 2021

I am by no means an expert but I currently have 3 and I have sourced and serviced a half dozen others over the past 10 years for friends and family. There is risk, as even if you purchase a watch in running condition, there is no guarantee that it won't need parts that are in the end unavailable. For that reason, I only purchase watches in very good condition, that are running. The prices for pocket watches are fairly low, so I don't pay more than $75 at auction, even after I inspect and verify that it runs.

I have also purchased several pocket watches from acquaintances that had them passed down from parents who had them from new. I knew these people well and they brought them to me as they knew that I was into watches. In each of these cases, I paid $100-125 for gold filled watches and chains that were in very good condition, and only needed a service.

I use 2 watchmakers for these. One who just services watches, suggests that if you want to maximize your odds of success, stick to Waltham, in running condition, because if parts are needed, there are lots in circulation and these are generally easier to source. This is just his suggestion as there are still lots of good Hamilton and Elgin watches out there. My other person is a retired engineer-turned-watchmaker who specializes in old pocket watches and clocks. He buys old pieces from auctions and estate sales and services the decent ones to sell. He has a stock of old parts and donor movements. I have sourced watches and clocks through him for friends and family, and the total cost is close to the mere cost of a service, which has already been done. He was also able to locate a centre wheel for an Omega pocket watch that I purchased elsewhere, but in the end it cost me quite a bit more than the watch was worth to get in in running condition. Live and learn.

There are good resources on several sites that will help you identify various watches regarding brand, calibre grade and size. The NAWCC is a good place to start. Finding a decent, serviceable, time piece is relatively economical if you do a bit of research, as pocket watches are are not all that popular. If you want something something special, or with provenance, that can be more costly. Good luck.

Benbradstock · Jan 12, 2021

DaveK
I’m newer to pocket watches than many folks on the forum, but here’s some avenues to explore:

- PWs do make great eye candy in a stand or display case, so maybe you want an evocative piece that works, but no need to service it if you are just looking at it. Deco style PWs are dope for decor

- American PWs are generally regarded as better quality than European ones. With many exceptions of course. Railroad approved American PWs though, are second to none for the most part

- yep, there are redials out there

- if there is radium on a PW, then there will be A LOT of it. Be careful

- smaller size 12 gentlemen’s style watches have a lot of class, larger size 16 watches will get you into the railroaders. So, a gents dress watch or a working mans watch are avenues to explore

- there are private label PWs out there, where a jeweller would order, for example, Omega, Longines or Waltham PWs, and put their own name on the dial and movement (maybe the maker wouldn’t sign the movement either). Ball watches being the most famous of these on a large scale. These private labels can be a lot of fun to collect because you could get a private label from your home town, or where you got married etc

- check out https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums and https://vintagewatchforums.com/

Many thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for.

Benbradstock · Jan 12, 2021

amcclell
I am by no means an expert but I currently have 3 and I have sourced and serviced a half dozen others over the past 10 years for friends and family. There is risk, as even if you purchase a watch in running condition, there is no guarantee that it won't need parts that are in the end unavailable. For that reason, I only purchase watches in very good condition, that are running. The prices for pocket watches are fairly low, so I don't pay more than $75 at auction, even after I inspect and verify that it runs.

I have also purchased several pocket watches from acquaintances that had them passed down from parents who had them from new. I knew these people well and they brought them to me as they knew that I was into watches. In each of these cases, I paid $100-125 for gold filled watches and chains that were in very good condition, and only needed a service.

I use 2 watchmakers for these. One who just services watches, suggests that if you want to maximize your odds of success, stick to Waltham, in running condition, because if parts are needed, there are lots in circulation and these are generally easier to source. This is just his suggestion as there are still lots of good Hamilton and Elgin watches out there. My other person is a retired engineer-turned-watchmaker who specializes in old pocket watches and clocks. He buys old pieces from auctions and estate sales and services the decent ones to sell. He has a stock of old parts and donor movements. I have sourced watches and clocks through him for friends and family, and the total cost is close to the mere cost of a service, which has already been done. He was also able to locate a centre wheel for an Omega pocket watch that I purchased elsewhere, but in the end it cost me quite a bit more than the watch was worth to get in in running condition. Live and learn.

There are good resources on several sites that will help you identify various watches regarding brand, calibre grade and size. The NAWCC is a good place to start. Finding a decent, serviceable, time piece is relatively economical if you do a bit of research, as pocket watches are are not all that popular. If you want something something special, or with
provenance, that can be more costly. Good luck.

many thanks, very helpful.

DaveK · Jan 12, 2021

If you like history, maybe a nice PW on a wriststrap, evocative of the transition to the dawn of wrist watches. This is a low rent example I have

140dave · Jan 12, 2021

I built my whole collection originally on under $300 pocket watches. You can still find quality Hamilton 992 and Illinois Bunn Special Model 9 (both 21j railroaders) in the $225-$300 range and they are desirable and plentiful. Yes, plan on a service too but thankfully generally it is a lot less than wristwatches. Take your time to research and buy carefully but it can be done.

wagudc · Jan 12, 2021

A pocket watch in a glass display dome would be a nice desk decoration, as long as the risk of it getting knocked off the desk is low.

Vintage pocket watch desk candy recommendation?

Benbradstock

Canuck

Benbradstock

Canuck

Benbradstock

Canuck

DaveK

STANDY

Dan S

connieseamaster

Tony C.

gatorcpa

Canuck

DaveK

amcclell

Benbradstock

Benbradstock

DaveK

140dave

wagudc

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