Vintage Omega Seamaster

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I do think a nice 165.010 or 166.010, in good condition with good clear pictures, sold by an established and trusted seller would sell for significantly more than 400. However, specific to the this watch, the OP doesn’t tick most of these boxes and this will impact any price achieved.
This is exactly why my advise to the OP isn’t to mess around with watchmaker assessments but rather to focus on taking some good quality, well lit, clear pictures. This will be the best way to increase the likely sale price. Otherwise, as @tamura said, many people won’t gamble on such poor pictures which will hold the price back.
 
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These days, when everyone is walking around with a high-quality technology-aided camera-computer in their pocket, there's really no excuse for posting crappy photos. Just stand in the light and take some photos. Choose some that are in focus and crop out the background. To me, posting poorly lit, out-of-focus photos suggests that you are lazy and don't care.
 
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I do think a nice 165.010 or 166.010, in good condition with good clear pictures, sold by an established and trusted seller would sell for significantly more than 400. However, specific to the this watch, the OP doesn’t tick most of these boxes and this will impact any price achieved.

This is such an important point that is regularly missed.

If you'll allow me to use you as an example, @Davidt : A nice 166.010, good overall condition with your usual well-lit and clear pictures plus a detailed description, offered by yourself here, a very active user that's been around for ages, with ~8k posts who's obviously regarded as 100% trustworthy by anyone who's been on OF for a couple of days would easily sell for >600€ within a very short time. Probably hours rather than days.

The same watch, sold by someone with no history here and/or in selling watches and possibly worse pictures could even have a detailed description - interested parties wouldnt put as much trust in it as they would in one by a well-known seller. And thus, the final price might well drop to something like 400€.

Why? Because security costs money.

So to anyone out there who aims to sell a watch and has never done so/isn't an active member of a watch community in any way: You will not achieve anywhere near the same price as established sellers or even dealers will - because you offer less to the buyer.
 
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So to anyone out there who aims to sell a watch and has never done so/isn't an active member of a watch community in any way: You will not achieve anywhere near the same price as established sellers or even dealers will - because you offer less to the buyer.

I have been trying to explain this same point to a local seller. I want to make him a fair offer, but he is a total unknown quantity, knows nothing about the watch he is selling, and won't let me open it. Yet he keeps pointing to listings by Eric Wind, etc. as comps.
 
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I have been trying to explain this same point to a local seller. I want to make him a fair offer, but he is a total unknown quantity, knows nothing about the watch he is selling, and won't let me open it. Yet he keeps pointing to listings by Eric Wind, etc. as comps.

I have encountered plenty of these kinds, in fact 99% of private sellers here in NL adopt this attitude with a very common sub header to their listings being something like, "Check Chrono 24 for value" with a link to the most ridiculously overpriced watch with the same ref on CH24.

Annoying to say the least, especially when they refuse reason whilst negotiating.
 
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Because of the poor quality of your pictures I would not bid.
OK,
Thanks for the feedback.
Any suggestions on the best way to photograph it?
 
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I do think a nice 165.010 or 166.010, in good condition with good clear pictures, sold by an established and trusted seller would sell for significantly more than 400. However, specific to the this watch, the OP doesn’t tick most of these boxes and this will impact any price achieved.
This is exactly why my advise to the OP isn’t to mess around with watchmaker assessments but rather to focus on taking some good quality, well lit, clear pictures. This will be the best way to increase the likely sale price. Otherwise, as @tamura said, many people won’t gamble on such poor pictures which will hold the price back.
Thanks-
Your feedback is good and well appreciated.
Would you have any suggestions Regarding getting the best photos?
I’m using my iPhone and this seems to be the best I can do.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you
 
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This is such an important point that is regularly missed.

If you'll allow me to use you as an example, @Davidt : A nice 166.010, good overall condition with your usual well-lit and clear pictures plus a detailed description, offered by yourself here, a very active user that's been around for ages, with ~8k posts who's obviously regarded as 100% trustworthy by anyone who's been on OF for a couple of days would easily sell for >600€ within a very short time. Probably hours rather than days.

The same watch, sold by someone with no history here and/or in selling watches and possibly worse pictures could even have a detailed description - interested parties wouldnt put as much trust in it as they would in one by a well-known seller. And thus, the final price might well drop to something like 400€.

Why? Because security costs money.

So to anyone out there who aims to sell a watch and has never done so/isn't an active member of a watch community in any way: You will not achieve anywhere near the same price as established sellers or even dealers will - because you offer less to the buyer.
Great info!
Thanks for explaining this.
I’m definitely going to try to figure out how to get better photos done and also open it up…somebody suggested using a rubber ball.. not sure what type would work well.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.Thank You!
 
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A watchmaker will tell you if there are any obvious issues but won’t be able to give it a clean bill of health without a full strip down and service. A cost which at best you’ll just about recoup when it comes to selling or more likely you’ll gain less than you’ve spent.

I’d just list it on eBay in an auction perhaps in November. That’s the best balance between effor and return.

The best thing you can do is take good wel lit photos so buyers have confidence in the dial and case condition. That’s isn’t possible with the ones you’ve taken this far.
Thank you very much!
Any suggestions on how to get the best photos would be well appreciated.
I was using a iPhone seven.
Perhaps there are some tricks with lighting and background that will make everything more clear.
 
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Instead of asking the same question five times, try a search.
 
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I'd buy it from him. PM sent 😉 Do you really need 200+ posts after all to sell here? I mean he pretty much just listed it for sale.
Didn’t realize you needed 200+ posts to sell here …
In fact when I joined I didn’t know that you could sell here…
I was just hoping to get some assistance regarding identifying it and the possible value.
 
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Instead of asking the same question five times, try a search.
Thanks!
Part of the reason for the individual replies was to show appreciation for the people who took the time to reply.
Thank you for taking the time to reply! And like I’ll definitely take a look at that…
There’s so much spam on the Internet it’s a little bit hard to separate the good stuff from the bad stuff.
 
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There’s so much spam on the Internet it’s a little bit hard to separate the good stuff from the bad stuff.

That's why I restricted the search to omegaforums.
 
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Yes. Just use a rubber ball to unscrew the back without damage.
Any particular kind of rubber ball?
Like a squash ball?
Racquetball?
 
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Yeah, the value of a BoR is never really recouped when sold attached to a watch.
I go back and forth with this. When I tried to sell a 2759 and a 166.010 on regular straps the only attention they got was someone critiquing the dial of the 2759. When I added a bracelet to the 166.010 I got offers immediately, as with other Seamasters and Constellations on bracelets. Then again we can get good-condition BoR bracelets in Japan fairly cheap with the yen in the state it’s in.
 
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The best advise for photos is to use as much indirect natural light as you can. Either near a large window or even outside. play around with angles etc to avoid glare on the dial.
 
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I go back and forth with this. When I tried to sell a 2759 and a 166.010 on regular straps the only attention they got was someone critiquing the dial of the 2759. When I added a bracelet to the 166.010 I got offers immediately, as with other Seamasters and Constellations on bracelets. Then again we can get good-condition BoR bracelets in Japan fairly cheap with the yen in the state it’s in.
Kind of interesting because this watch came from Japan, my ex-wife’s fathers..
Even though I only wear it once or twice per year,
I really like it..
I would not be considering selling it, except for the fact That I’ve been travelling around Europe for the last four years in my camping car… Depleted most of my funds and have now experienced significant mechanical issue with my camping car-
So, the utility of the cash is greater than the sentimentality of the watch.. At least it is if I would receive 500+
 
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Kind of interesting because this watch came from Japan, my ex-wife’s fathers..
Even though I only wear it once or twice per year,
I really like it..
I would not be considering selling it, except for the fact That I’ve been travelling around Europe for the last four years in my camping car… Depleted most of my funds and have now experienced significant mechanical issue with my camping car-
So, the utility of the cash is greater than the sentimentality of the watch.. At least it is if I would receive 500+
I sympathize with your situation and I’m sorry my first reply was neither kind nor helpful. I think you’ve gotten everything you need here to maximize the value of the watch if you’re prepared to give it up. Maybe folks here can crowdsource a good honest description of the watch for you to use with an eBay sale.

As you’ve learned, the people most likely to appreciate the value of your watch are going to have concerns about paying too much for it. You’re not an established seller or a knowledgeable collector, but you can make up for that somewhat by taking the best photos you can and writing an honest description that emphasizes the positives and acknowledges the drawbacks. This will help reassure buyers that you’re not hiding anything and persuade them to take a risk in buying it. And the positives are there—this is a nice watch that enthusiasts may well be willing to pay good money for.

If you’re able to get someone to help you open the watch with proper tools, or if you get your hands on a rubber ball caseback-opening tool, you can take photos of the movement, which will go a long way toward convincing a collector to take a chance on your watch.

The other thing you need and may not have the luxury to afford is patience. Someone will certainly come along eventually who will be willing to pay your price for the watch, but there’s just no telling when that might be.
 
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So, the utility of the cash is greater than the sentimentality of the watch.. At least it is if I would receive 500+

Yes, we get it, you want someone to buy it. As noted above, this is not the place to sell your watch, so you should stop these not-so-subtle attempts. If someone were going to pay you that amount, you would already have received a PM.

You've received your advice, but I can't help noticing that you haven't even tried to post better photos or to open the watch in the three days since you started this thread. Put some actual effort into it, make the best listing you can, and sell it on eBay. I'm not sure if you will net 500 currency units after fees and shipping, but you may get close. Good luck.