Amazing post and amazing group of collectors. My gift to read this!

 

Hi guys, again, fascinating exchange of ideas and knowledge! I also have one of these apparently later service dials. Out of curiosity: are yours Ref 22279 as well? Also, did anyone do a geiger measurement on these later dials vs. original dials? Thanks

 

I have the dial on a 22242.

 

Thanks!

 

great thread. learned so much about it ....now off to find one in good condition

 

Geiger measurement wouldn't tell the 40s from the 60s dials as both used radium.

 

Buondì !



Asta Monaco Legend Group Monaco 31 ottobre 2020

 

Yeah, but +35% on top of it ... I just can't.

 

I just read this whole thread again this morning. A classic.

 

Does anyone have any input/feedback on the following UG? Sorry, the only picture I currently have. To me, it looks too clean. If you look at the day and month windows, they show a much darker appearance (like real patina) as opposed to the dial. Lower right lug appears a bit bent, but cannot be sure. Assistance appreciated.

 

It is a redial ...

 

I thought as much. I have read this thread, but it sheds little light on what a redial does to value for purposes of purchasing a watch like this example. If someone has knowledge, please send me a PM so I can benefit from your knowledge.

Thank you.

 

This is one being auctioned or on ebay isn't it? Seller declared dial original if I recall correctly

 

If you are happy with A repainted dial and price is comesurate, go for it

To a vintage watch collector, the dial is the soul of the watch. No dial no watch. A redial reduces value to the sum that the parts would fetch if the watch was broken and sold separately. Better an original dial with lots of patina than a redial. However, some people are happy with redials in that they are far cheaper than an original ... There is always the remote possibility that you may find an original dial.

 

Re Lumed sword hands with no corresponding lume on dial. Round 3’s. Seconds, date and minute subs are reprinted. Outer track is reprinted. These are just a few of the faults. The hands, case and movement are worth something but the dial screws the pooch on value. I dismissed this watch in the 5 seconds it took to look at it.

 

Thank you for the valuable insight. This was my suspicion, but always good to hear from resident experts. Thanks again.

 

Font on the 'Universal Geneve' was the first thing I noticed, followed by the spearmint lume.

 

Always remember to check the edges of the sub dials. Personally, I find this one of the most useful redial checks there is.

As a general rule, original dials have sharp edges in all sub dials. Redials almost always have rounded edges, as in your posted example, where the paint has dried and run over the edge a little. Roundy subdials + roundy threes = run a mile!

 

Been geeking out on this thread, which led me to read a few threads over at O&P. I stumbled upon this chart form a particular thread (credit to @nicola1960


https://orologi.forumfree.it/?t=77986286

Would there be an English translation of this? Since it's a picture, I couldn't use Google Translate.

 

Google rules the world ...