Tudor Snowflake 9411/0 - thoughts on this one?

Good evening all,
I have been after a faded blue Snowflake for a while ; what do experts think of this 9411/0, from '76?
The case looks battered and polished, but in an attractive way to me, and matches the 'bubbled' dial.
The bezel certainly looks (too) polished.
Does the dial look 'real'? The lume looks in good condition, perhaps suspect?
The hands a clearly replacements - but service, or aftermarket?
The insert seems to have faded i) very much and ii) very evenly - did that tend to happen genuinely?
I like the absence of a cyclops, although it's unlikely to be its original T19, but how can one tell ? (of course, it's cracked)
Does the bracelet look okay?
Can't really see the crown, but least of my potential worries.
Anything else i need to be wary of here?
I guess it all comes down to price, this one is offered at c. usd9,500. Clearly a huge sum of money, but is it at least on-market? (even if relumed, non-original hands, etc) I tend not to see too many of these for sale.
Many thanks indeed for any thoughts.

No love for this Tudor Snowflake? I suppose it is the Omega forum....but still.
Here's a few macros of the insert, for additional (blue) colour.

For me it’s too much money for relumed hands and very stretched bracelet. As Dan mentioned the bubbling dials are tough and they’ll likely continue to degrade with time. The market is crazy for these now and filled with Frankens and outright fakes. Perhaps this is what you have to pay these days...

Is the bracelet that stretched? Not disputing, i genuinely can't tell. On the wrist shot of the clasp it looked 'okay' to me, but you might be right.
As regards the bubbly dial, aesthetically, i quite like it, and think it matches the rest of the (very) worn look of the watch... but some comments as to it's prognosis have somewhat concerned me. Even though it's lasted over forty years, i suspect at some point it falls apart, and knowing my luck the music will stop while i'm holding it.

Rolliworks or a similar place could fix the bracelet and even re-do the case to perfection. You’d just have to factor those into your purchase price.

.....but of course they can't re-do that dial.

Just to round this off, after a bit of negotiation, he came down a bit and i went for it. I'm really happy with it. Weirdly, the bubble dial photographs far more extreme than it looks in real life...it's far more subtle, and i actually like it.
I took off the bracelet and replaced with a brown suede strap... many will object, but i think a retired diver belongs on something like this.
Thank you all for your comments and assistance with the purchase.

Enjoy and wear in good health!

Good evening all,
I realise this is straying further off-topic on an Omega forum...but would anyone happen to know what endlinks i can fit to this Tudor Sub, for a 7835 bracelet? It came with 258 endlinks, which just aren't right (i think for DateJusts and the like) so i believe i need 380s (or 380Bs, to allow easy connection), but these seem to be hard to come about. Would 580s also work? What is the difference? Would any others do the job of looking similar to 380s...?
Thank you very much indeed.

I have procured some 580 end links (in error, thinking it was these i needed rather than 380s..) for my 7836 bracelet on my 9411/0. My ensuing questions are as follows:
i) will 580s work, or do i really need 380s? I believe 580s are for more modern 78360/93150 bracelets, whereas 380s are for earlier 7860/9315 bracelets... in which case i might be stuffed. but will they still somehow fit ?
ii) assuming by some miracle they do, i notice my 358s are attached to the final link on the 7836 via a 'connecting tube' that is fixed inside the endlink (i think this is the difference between 358 and 358b's), whereas my 580s don't have this tube. how do i detach my 358s and attach my 580s? do i need to somehow detach this connecting tube to the last link and reconnect it to my 580s? if so, is there a good guide to doing this somewhere? or is it a really fiddly job that i am best leaving to a watchmaker?
iii) do my 580s look genuine to members (photos attached)? i bought them off eBay from a reputable seller for c. gbp200, which is a fairly hefty sum, but they look NOS to me, which always raises suspicion. I would have enquired here first, but time wasn't with me. Moreover there doesn't seem to be any connecting tubes attached to them, and given they're not 580b's, i assume i need to recycle this piece from my 358s... is this possible?
iv) and if so, do my redundant 358s have any resale value ?
v) what model and bracelet were 358s originally intended for anyway?

thank you ever so much.
John.

These endlinks look too crude finished around the curved part ? Your watch is fine as is. The hands are replacements, the Center second metal frame looks it. These are excellent watches, especially with that bubble dial and original faded insert . Movement easy to service. Somehow more interesting than Rolex.

Thanks @watchyouwant. Agreed re. the watch (it's lovely), but the links don't look right to me...they look too flat. Think they're for Rolex GMT/Explorer II that have a flatter profile... think the Tudor Subs were a bit thicker for the ETA movement, so these endlinks certainly aren't right. Question is how easy they are to detach and to refit my new 580s (think it's 380Bs i need ideally)

Are they a pain to disconnect? Is there a good trick to it, or am i likely to mangle the connecting tube's shape unless i am skilled and experienced? (of which i am neither)
I have found a pair of 380Bs, which i think come 'loose'.. if i manage to disconnect these 358s, can i easily fit these 358Bs, just with a springbar? Or do i need to reconnect this connecting tube somehow?