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Tri-compax Repair?

jmarchun
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Hello all,

I recently inherited my great-grandfather's circa 1945 Rose gold Tri-Compax. I think it's a beautiful watch, but unfortunately in the early 90's my father brought it to a local watch shop that didn't know what they were doing and now it's missing the crown and completely un-functional. It's been sitting since, but now that I have it, I believe it's time to get it properly repaired - which I hope is do-able since i have no idea what else they broke.

1) From what I read, these watches are hard to repair and they should be sent to someone who has experience in these movements. I saw the name blake at scotchwatch on another posting - are there any other recommendations? I'm in Seattle, so would love a NW based shop, but understand that expertise is more important than geography when it comes to these waches.

2) I've attached a picture, but it looks like there is some fading or water spot damage and the numbers and markings have worn off between the 12-2 spots. I'd consider getting it refinished or re-painted, but is that worth it or should I keep it original?

photo (4).JPG
 
jmarchun
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Also, the reference number is 12266 - is that likely the 481 movement?
 
dsio
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jmarchun jmarchun
Hello all,

I recently inherited my great-grandfather's circa 1945 Rose gold Tri-Compax. I think it's a beautiful watch, but unfortunately in the early 90's my father brought it to a local watch shop that didn't know what they were doing and now it's missing the crown and completely un-functional. It's been sitting since, but now that I have it, I believe it's time to get it properly repaired - which I hope is do-able since i have no idea what else they broke.

1) From what I read, these watches are hard to repair and they should be sent to someone who has experience in these movements. I saw the name blake at scotchwatch on another posting - are there any other recommendations? I'm in Seattle, so would love a NW based shop, but understand that expertise is more important than geography when it comes to these waches.

2) I've attached a picture, but it looks like there is some fading or water spot damage and the numbers and markings have worn off between the 12-2 spots. I'd consider getting it refinished or re-painted, but is that worth it or should I keep it original?

18153

Damn, I wish my grandfather left me something that cool, the UG guys will chime in when they're online but maintaining originality generally is key.
 
woodwkr2
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Keep it original!!!!--original lume, original hands, unpolished! That dial has a little patina, but you'd be seriously compromising the value if you attempt to spruce it up. Many (most?) of the original UG crowns were unsigned, so a replacement won't be impossible, though matching vintage rose gold is always tricky.

How cool is it to know that you're telling time (or will be) by looking down at the same dial that your great grandfather did?

You're smart not to trust this watch to the local battery change watchmaker. Parts on these are a real issue. I've seen [email protected] recc'd by others, though I have no experience with his work myself. Be prepared for a pricey service ($600-1000), but look at it as an investment in a watch that has not only sentimental meaning, but increasing investment value/potential.

Is it 14 or 18K?
 
woodwkr2
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Tell me the size of the case...

If it's 34-35mm, it's likely a 481.
 
LouS
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Really nice example - treasure it!

jmarchun jmarchun
1) From what I read, these watches are hard to repair and they should be sent to someone who has experience in these movements. I saw the name blake at scotchwatch on another posting - are there any other recommendations? I'm in Seattle, so would love a NW based shop, but understand that expertise is more important than geography when it comes to these watches.

JameyS has recommended [email protected] and Brent has used Roland Murphy, I think. Both are costly but competent in this movement.

jmarchun jmarchun
2) I've attached a picture, but it looks like there is some fading or water spot damage and the numbers and markings have worn off between the 12-2 spots. I'd consider getting it refinished or re-painted, but is that worth it or should I keep it original?

Refinish this dial and you ,might as well set fire to $1000 - that's about what it will lose in value, even with a decent refinish. Have a skilled watchmaker clean the dial carefully and live with the result - it's really pretty good as it stands.
 
jmarchun
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woodwkr2 woodwkr2
Tell me the size of the case...

If it's 34-35mm, it's likely a 481.

Looks like 34mm to me.
 
jmarchun
Posts
17
Likes
19
woodwkr2 woodwkr2
Keep it original!!!!--original lume, original hands, unpolished! That dial has a little patina, but you'd be seriously compromising the value if you attempt to spruce it up. Many (most?) of the original UG crowns were unsigned, so a replacement won't be impossible, though matching vintage rose gold is always tricky.

How cool is it to know that you're telling time (or will be) by looking down at the same dial that your great grandfather did?

You're smart not to trust this watch to the local battery change watchmaker. Parts on these are a real issue. I've seen [email protected] recc'd by others, though I have no experience with his work myself. Be prepared for a pricey service ($600-1000), but look at it as an investment in a watch that has not only sentimental meaning, but increasing investment value/potential.

Is it 14 or 18K?

Not sure about the gold - is there any easy way to tell?

Based on all the feedback I'll keep it original and hope for the best of the replacement crown.

Thanks all for the repair recommendations, it's time to do a few calls! I fully expect the service to be pricey, but the monetary/sentimental value is worth it. Thanks again, once it's repaired I'll post some working pics.
 
dsio
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One more point, even after servicing, never let it get wet, damp, soggy, or anywhere near moisture. Assume its water resistance is absolutely zero.
 
woodwkr2
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jmarchun jmarchun
Not sure about the gold - is there any easy way to tell?


The easy way to tell would be to pop off the case back and take a look at the engravings. If you don't have the proper tools, you can take an old double edge shaving blade and duct tape one side (the handle), and then carefully insert the sharp end into the groove behind the case back. (Note: I say a DE shaving blade for a reason. The thicker box cutter or utility knife blades are too thick.) Give it some wiggling and it should pop off. If that doesn't work and you don't have the proper tools, leave it alone. If you start messing around with anything with a larger/thicker edge you'll get the case back off, but you'll gouge the soft metal in the process.

Those acid-based gold testing kits can harm the case, so if you ever thought of going that route... don't.

Much easier: ask the watchmaker to photograph the inside of the watch for you when he opens it up.
 
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