The International Museum Of Horology Skeleton Watch

I thought I would share some pictures and documentation on this UG watch from the 1980s in the hope that others might find it informative and may have related info to share as well.

My understanding is that the International Museum of Horology commissioned the Franklin Mint with the creation of this limited edition watch, with the production of the watches performed by Universal Geneve and the marketing and sales performed by the Franklin Mint.

Original marketing materials state that this is a single limited edition of no more than 3000 watches. I have seen sellers state that 3000 of these were made, but I have not found any authoritative source for that figure. I have also seen a copy of a billing letter to a customer that was dated 31 October 1989. So I'm not certain of how many were made or for how long they were being made.

The copies of original Franklin Mint marketing materials that I have found were for the BeNeLux region. The price in that region was 7900 Dutch Guilder, payable in 10 equal monthly installments. Using historical conversion rates, I believe that would have been somewhere in the neighborhood of 3,000 to 4,000 USD in the late 1980s. Inflation-adjusted to today's dollar would put it somewhere in the 8K - 10K range I believe.

I'll start with some pictures of my watches:

Watch #1 (Cal 1-42 variant)



Watch #2 (Cal 2-42 variant)



While every watch in this limited edition is unique due to variations in the skeletonization and engraving which were performed by hand, there are a few other differences of note between the two variations I have of this watch. Watch #1 has a Cal 1-42 movement, has the U logo and Universal Geneve in black lettering on the face, and the lettering "C 1986 THE FRANKLIN MINT" on the back of case is slightly different font and positioning than Watch #2 which has a Cal 2-42 movement and the U logo and Universal Geneve are in gold lettering on the face.

I have identified maybe around a dozen other instances of this watch from online research, which can be uniquely identified by the variations in skeletonization and engraving. So far, the only Cal 1-42 instance I have encountered is the one that I own. The difference in the lettering on the back of the case is also so far unique to Watch #1, as the other instances I have found online match Watch #2.

There are two different shock mechanisms deployed amongst the examples of this watch that I have seen, but that seems to be random with numerous examples of both. Regarding the UG 42 series movements, Ranfft indicates that Cal 1-42 is identical to Cal 2-42 but employs Kif-Satellor instead of Incabloc, though that doesn't seem to hold for these particular watches and their unique production.

Here are some original sales materials and advertising materials that I have found online:

I'm also including some translations courtesy of Google Translate




Het Skelethorloge is zo uniek dat het nu al deel uitmaakt van de befaamde collectie van Le Musee International d'Horlogerie

The Skeleton watch is so unique that it is already part of the renowned collection of Le Musee International d'Horlogerie

Geinspireerd op de fel gegeerde skelethorloges uit de 18e eeuw, is dit schitterende herenhorloge een fraai voorbeeld van een langzaam verdwijnende kuntsvorm. Toen was het uurwerk nog echt een sieraad, dat de kunde van zijn maker verried. In deze eeuwenoude traditie wordt Het Skelethorloge nu met de hand vervaardigd door een van de weinige ateliers die een dergelijke moeilijke opdracht aan kunnen.

Inspired by the highly coveted skeleton watches of the 18th century, this beautiful men's watch is a fine example of a slowly disappearing art form. At that time the timepiece was still a real piece of jewelry, which betrayed the skill of its maker. In this age-old tradition, The Skeleton Watch is now handcrafted by one of the few workshops that can handle such a difficult task.

Dit is het Skelethorloge, zo genoemd omdat het mechanisme volledig zichtbaar is door zijn kristallen boven- en onderzijde. Fascinerend voor u die vakmanschap en stylering van een weergaloze kwaliteit weet te waarderen.

This is the Skeleton watch, so named because the mechanism is fully visible through its crystals top and bottom. Fascinating for you who appreciate craftsmanship and styling of unparalleled quality.

De meester-horlogemakers van het Zwitserse Universal Geneve ciseleren het freem zorgvuldig met de hand en zetten het mechanisme eveneens met de hand in elkaar. Met hun minuscule boortjes en zaagjes creeren ze een ingewikkeld skelet van krommingen en bogen. Ze versieren het met motieven, die met de hand gegraveerd worden... plaatsen het freem en het Zwitserse mechanisme met zijn 17 edelsteentjes in het 18-karaats gouden horlogekastje... bekronen het opwindmechanime met een adembenemende onyx-cabochon... en werken het horloge af met een luxueuze band in zwart hagedisseleer.

The master watchmakers at Universal Geneve in Switzerland carefully emboss the frame by hand and also assemble the mechanism by hand. With their tiny drills and saws they create an intricate skeleton of curves and arcs. They decorate it with motifs, which are engraved by hand... place the frame and the Swiss mechanism with its 17 precious stones in the 18 karat gold watch case... crown the winding mechanism with a breathtaking onyx cabochon ... and work Finish the watch with a luxurious black lizard leather strap.

Het resultaat is een kuntswerk dat zelfs de meest veeleisende man graag zal dragen. Een geraffineerd juweel dat zowel met een klassiek pak als met moderne kleding een betoverende combinatie vormt. Wie Het Skelethorloge draagt, zal zeker niet onopgemerkt door het leven gaan.

The result is a piece of art that even the most demanding man will be happy to wear. A refined jewel that forms an enchanting combination with both a classic suit and modern clothing. Anyone who wears The Skeleton Watch will certainly not go unnoticed.

Maar slechts een paar gelukkigen zullen dit smaakvolle horloge ooit bezitten. Le Musee International d'Horlogerie, die Franklin Mint de eervolle opdracht gaf deze creatie te realiseren, voerde immers een limiet van 3.000 horloges in. Een van deze horloges wordt in de permanente collectie van het museum opgenomen. De andere zullen met de hand vervaardigd worden voor ieder die op dit verblindende sieraad intekent bij Franklin Mint, dat in opdracht van Le Musee International de intekeningen in de Benelux exclusief voor zijn rekening neemt.

But only a lucky few will ever own this tasteful watch. Le Musee International d'Horlogerie, who honorably commissioned Franklin Mint to realize this creation, introduced a limit of 3,000 watches. One of these watches will be included in the permanent collection of the museum. The others will be handcrafted for anyone who subscribes to this dazzling piece of jewelry with Franklin Mint, which is exclusively responsible for the subscriptions in the Benelux on behalf of Le Musee International.

Volgens de eeuwenoude traditie wordt Het Skelethorloge uitgerust met een kristallen boven en onderkant. Zo is het met de hand geciseleerde en gegraveerde freem volledig zichtbaar. Alle onderdelen van het freem worden zorgvuldig geassembleerd om het sensationele mechanisme te dragen.

According to the age-old tradition, The Skeleton Watch is equipped with a crystal top and bottom. Thus, the hand-hammered and engraved frame is fully visible. All parts of the frame are carefully assembled to support the sensational mechanism.

De prijs van dit luxueuze herenhorloge, dat met de hand gecise-leerd en gegraveerd wordt, bedraagt f 7.900,-, betaalbaar in een aantal maandelijkse termijnen. Bij uw horloge ontvangt u een stijlvol, met fluweel bekleed juwelendoosje en een Certificaat van Echtheid, ondertekend door de conservator van Le Musee International.

The price of this luxurious men's watch, which is carved and engraved by hand, is NLG 7,900, payable in a number of monthly instalments. With your watch you will receive a stylish velvet-lined jewelry box and a Certificate of Authenticity signed by the curator of Le Musee International.

Eens de gestelde limiet bereikt, zal elke verdere intekening geweigerd worden. Het is dus van het grootste belang snel te handelen. Stuur uw Persoonlijke Uitnodiging daarom zo snel mogelijk terug.

Once the limit has been reached, any further subscription will be refused. It is therefore of the utmost importance to act quickly. Please return your Personal Invitation as soon as possible.

Met de hand vervaardigd door die enbele Zwitserse horlogemakers die de eer van deze veeleisende 18e-eecuuse kunst hoog houden. Elk Skelethorloge is een triomf van geniaal vakmanschap.

Handcrafted by those noble Swiss watchmakers who uphold the honor of this exacting 18th century art. Every Skeleton watch is a triumph of genius craftsmanship.

Hetspectaculaire Universal Geneve-mechanisme, met zijn 17 edelsteentjes, wordt zorgvuldig geassembleerd en in het 18-karaats gouden kastje gezet. Vervolgens wordt het apart getest, zodat uiterste precisie gegarandeerd is.

The spectacular Universal Geneve mechanism, with its 17 gems, is carefully assembled and placed in the 18-karat gold case. It is then tested separately, so that extreme precision is guaranteed.




Gecreeerd door de waardige erfgenamen van de Zwitserse meesters...
voor de enkele gelukkigen die het genoegen zullen proeven het te dragen.

Created by the worthy heirs of the Swiss masters...
for the lucky few who will have the pleasure of wearing it.




Dit Skelethorloge zet een algemeen gewaardeerde, 18e - eeuwse traditie verder. Doorzichtbaar als ze zijn, laten skelethorloges hun hele mechanisme bewonderen. Het zijn als het ware etalages voor het vakmanschap van de horlogemakers. Aan het einde vand de 18e eeuw liet Marie-Antoinette zo'n horloge maken door de beroemde Franse meester Abraham-Louis Breguet. Het werd zo'n ingewikkeld kuntswerk, dat hij er niet minder dan 40 jaar aan werkte en toen het in 1823 eindelijk kon worden geleverd, was Marie-Antoinette al lang overleden. Vandaag de dag beschikt slechts een klein aantal horlogemakers nog over de nodige kennis en het vereiste vakmanschap voor dit precisiewerk. Daarom ook besloot Le Musee International d'Horlogerie dit unieke skelethorloge in zijn permanente verzameling op te nemen. Al meer dan tachtig jaar koopt het Museum uurwerken van een bijzonder historisch belang of technisch uitzonderlijke kwaliteit aan. Zijn collectie bestaat uit meer dan 3.000 stukken uit de hele wereld en uit elke periode van de modern geschiedenis. Bovendien bevat het Museum een uitgebreide bibliotheek en wordt er voortdurend wetenschappelijk onderzoek verricht. Tenslotte organiseert het regelmatig seminaries en geeft het boeken over klokken en de horlogemakerskunst uit.

This Skeleton watch continues a widely appreciated 18th century tradition. Transparent as they are, skeleton watches allow their entire mechanism to be admired. They are, as it were, showcases for the craftsmanship of the watchmakers. At the end of the 18th century, Marie-Antoinette had such a watch made by the famous French master Abraham-Louis Breguet. It became such an intricate piece of art that he worked on it for no less than 40 years and when it could finally be delivered in 1823, Marie-Antoinette was long dead. Today, only a small number of watchmakers still have the necessary knowledge and craftsmanship for this precision work. That is why Le Musee International d'Horlogerie decided to include this unique skeleton watch in its permanent collection. For more than eighty years, the Museum has been purchasing timepieces of particular historical importance or technically exceptional quality. His collection consists of more than 3,000 pieces from around the world and from every period of modern history. In addition, the Museum contains an extensive library and ongoing scientific research. Finally, it regularly organizes seminars and publishes books on clocks and watchmaking.



Google Lens Translation:


Here is a product placement on a magazine cover from 1986.

Thanks!

I've been trying to learn what I can about these.

I'm particularly intrigued by the Cal 1-42 variant with the different lettering on the back of the case. So far it is the only one I can find like it, but is it rare? or just happenstance that I've only encountered the one?

Hoping I can track down better copies of the marketing brochures. I'm wondering which variant is pictured in them. It would also be nice to find english language versions of those materials.

Figure that Universal Geneve and Franklin Mint would both be dead ends for research, since they have both had business lapses and ownership changes. Maybe Musée international d'horlogerie (The International Museum of Horology) might be worth a contact, though I'm not sure how interested they would be in an inquiry about a product collaboration from 35 years ago. Would be interesting to know if they actually have one of these in their collection as well. I might reach out to them after I do a little more legwork on the research, suppose it doesn't hurt to try.

Thanks for documenting this - I've always wondered about this watch and what led to it's creation. Anything from Franklin Mint doesn't exactly have the best of reputations, at least in the UK, and the marketing/business model is regularly lampooned in satirical magasines like Viz or Private Eye.

I heartily recommend a trip to the Museum - definitely a highlight.
https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?68950-Bienne-bugger!-Mais-La-Chaux-de-Fonds-c-est-formidable!

As a matter of interest, is the buckle on yours plated or solid gold?

Thanks, I had hoped others might find the information interesting. I also can't help but to "deep dive" on any research project I have, so I've enjoyed the investigation as it were.

The association with The Franklin Mint definitely hasn't aged well. I suppose TFM was well (enough) regarded by many, or at least some, at the time. During that period it seems they at least produced or partnered on some higher quality products, though admittedly a very small portion of their offerings. It appears that later periods they didn't even bother, as it seems their customers were eager enough to believe TFM products would be worthwhile "investments" (like so many other fads/crazes), regardless of lack of quality, intrinsic value, exclusivity or provenance. But I suppose things are worth whatever someone is willing to pay.

There are at least a couple other Franklin Mint Skeleton Watch models that were issued a little later, one in 1989 and I'm not certain about the other. The 1989 model was gold plated and I think has an unsigned Swiss movement, though I've seen some listings state (I suspect incorrectly) that they are UG. The other model I think looks a bit like a toy for a child (though not a very good one). So, yeah, the association with TFM isn't great, particularly when you factor in their marketing/business model. That being said, I like to think that this watch model is a bit of a unicorn, in part because it is one of the rare "quality" products associated with The Franklin Mint. I do wonder, though, how much more highly regarded would these watches be without that association, i.e. if they were just a collaboration between UG and MIH.

I also wonder at the full story of how this model came about and the details of production. Peak quartz crisis and right in the time period when UG went through ownership changes; did they hope this low-volume, hand-crafted, middle-finger to quartz would maintain some profitability via higher margins? or did they just hope to cash in some chips before the casino finally closes its doors? And I wonder if there was enough demand to even sell / produce the stated 3000 watch limit? Or since it was marketed by The Franklin Mint, maybe they just produced how ever many they got orders for, even if it was above the limit they advertised? Given the high original sell price, I'm inclined to suspect the former, but who knows.

The MIH does look like a fascinating museum. If it were more convenient to my location, I'd definitely be tempted to visit.

Regarding the buckle, I actually don't know. I had assumed just plated or gold-filled, but haven't checked really, as the possibility hadn't occurred to me that it might be solid. The only marking is UNROC (for Cornu & Cie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland). I don't have a precision jewelry scale that would enable me to perform a density measurement on something that small, so I'm not sure how I would confirm in a non-destructive manner.

On a side note, I've seen instances of this watch with either this buckle design or with a later curved buckle design, both claiming to be original. Again, that is something I cannot confirm or refute, but I wonder if it might be correct and just depend on whether it was early or late issue.