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Kargol
路Let's see if this is a redial(is it?)
Test for everyone. Is this an omega redial ?
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Andy K
路Where to start....
Not sure why you'd think that? If you know the reference number and the calibre number, then you can start researching. And then you almost always have the opportunity to compare it with the original. Maybe you won't see an exact match to the dial - Omega made lots of dial variants - but you'll see patterns.
Nobody is criticizing your post. I was trying to help you learn to figure this stuff out on your own, but you seem convinced on on your own approach so have at it.馃憤
My friend Andy,
I also get you point. However when you buy a watch you will almost never have the opportunity to compare it with an original.
I am surprised that you guys are insisting on criticising my post, instead of looking at what inexperienced buyer might get from a few of you replies about thickness of minute ticks, distance of Omega Logo, and other points that have been mentioned in this thread.
Nobody is criticizing your post. I was trying to help you learn to figure this stuff out on your own, but you seem convinced on on your own approach so have at it.馃憤
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BlackTalon
路路This Space for RentMy friend Andy,
I also get you point. However when you buy a watch you will almost never have the opportunity to compare it with an original. I am surprised that you guys are insisting on criticising my post, instead of looking at what inexperienced buyer might get from a few of you replies about thickness of minute ticks, distance of Omega Logo, and other points that have been mentioned in this thread.
You'll get there after some time. It took me several months to start developing a critical eye, and a couple years since to get better at looking at subtle things.
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BlackTalon
路路This Space for RentLet's see if this is a redial(is it?)
There are signs of degradation around the edges here, which make me think this is probably the original finish. The Seamaster font looks like it is probably correct as well. But I would not hang my hat on that without better photos.
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Kargol
路Where to start....
Not sure why you'd think that? If you know the reference number and the calibre number, then you can start researching. And then you almost always have the opportunity to compare it with the original. Maybe you won't see an exact match to the dial - Omega made lots of dial variants - but you'll see patterns.
Nobody is criticizing your post. I was trying to help you learn to figure this stuff out on your own, but you seem convinced on on your own approach so have at it.馃憤
I really thank you for your efforts to make me understand your points, and I wish I become more experienced in the next years..
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Kargol
路And the next step is to post better photos of dials you want opinions on. Zoom in more so there is a good hi-rez pic of mainly just the dial. And straight-on is best.
There are signs of degradation around the edges here, which make me think this is probably the original finish. The Seamaster font looks like it is probably correct as well. But I would not hang my hat on that without better photos.
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ChrisN
路Are you collecting dials?
Some hints: "Knowing how the font looks like on the reference you are researching will help you quite a lot, especially on Seamasters. Where can you find this info? On Omegaforums, naturally. Do a search and spend some time smarting up. Other tells are minute marks that are of varying thickness and length and light green lume plots. The original radium lume would have been washed off when the dial was cleaned. A final - and really rather obvious - tip: If it's an old watch, there is little chance that the dial will look virgin white. The light, rather even spotting "suffered" by one example is typical of this particular reference and a good sign of authenticity. Get to know how your targetted watch usually patinates and it will help you in your assesment."
Slightly modified text to try and make sense here but, copyright @ConElPueblo from this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603
It's a vintage forum sticky thread and well worth reading as it will help with you spotting redials.
Good luck, Chris
Some hints: "Knowing how the font looks like on the reference you are researching will help you quite a lot, especially on Seamasters. Where can you find this info? On Omegaforums, naturally. Do a search and spend some time smarting up. Other tells are minute marks that are of varying thickness and length and light green lume plots. The original radium lume would have been washed off when the dial was cleaned. A final - and really rather obvious - tip: If it's an old watch, there is little chance that the dial will look virgin white. The light, rather even spotting "suffered" by one example is typical of this particular reference and a good sign of authenticity. Get to know how your targetted watch usually patinates and it will help you in your assesment."
Slightly modified text to try and make sense here but, copyright @ConElPueblo from this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603
It's a vintage forum sticky thread and well worth reading as it will help with you spotting redials.
Good luck, Chris
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Kargol
路Are you collecting dials?
Some hints: "Knowing how the font looks like on the reference you are researching will help you quite a lot, especially on Seamasters. Where can you find this info? On Omegaforums, naturally. Do a search and spend some time smarting up. Other tells are minute marks that are of varying thickness and length and light green lume plots. The original radium lume would have been washed off when the dial was cleaned. A final - and really rather obvious - tip: If it's an old watch, there is little chance that the dial will look virgin white. The light, rather even spotting "suffered" by one example is typical of this particular reference and a good sign of authenticity. Get to know how your targetted watch usually patinates and it will help you in your assesment."
Slightly modified text to try and make sense here but, copyright @ConElPueblo from this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603
It's a vintage forum sticky thread and well worth reading as it will help with you spotting redials.
Good luck, Chris
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michael22
路I can understand, collecting orphaned dials, you won't always have a reference no. to search.
Even more important to learn to identify the redial without direct comparison. Andy K's post with Emma Stone is important.
Learn to see the quality of a mass produced dial made with excellent equipment, compared to a one off hand made dial made with minimal equipment. I think this is what you are asking for.
The 2 dials you have posted make excellent comparison, study them side by side. Post a pic of the 2 dials together.
Even more important to learn to identify the redial without direct comparison. Andy K's post with Emma Stone is important.
Learn to see the quality of a mass produced dial made with excellent equipment, compared to a one off hand made dial made with minimal equipment. I think this is what you are asking for.
The 2 dials you have posted make excellent comparison, study them side by side. Post a pic of the 2 dials together.
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michael22
路Most redials are about the redialer, & they leave their mark. Take a look at this one, which is currently listed on ebay. I identified the glaring dial problem on day two. I needn't have bothered trying to find another straight lug polerouter to compare (go ahead & laugh).
It's a watch I found really attractive.
It's a watch I found really attractive.
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vintagemillenial
路question for the experts, are the minute markers usually the biggest tell on these redials?
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BDHD
路Hi friends,
I would like to start a thread, trying to help me and others, when buying vintage watches.
Please reply to this points:
1. Look at the photo for just some seconds. What is your first thought? Is it a redial? Please just look for some seconds and reply immediately.
2. Take a good look at the photo. If you think it鈥檚 a redial can you indicate why? Please write more reasons than one.
3. If this is a redial do you think is a good job?
The shape of the D in "Swiss Made"!
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Kargol
路question for the experts, are the minute markers usually the biggest tell on these redials?
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Kargol
路Look at these before and after photos
and tell me your opinion about the work done:
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Davidt
路Not very good:
fonts too thick
Subdial misaligned
Minutes hashes inconsistently spaced
fonts too thick
Subdial misaligned
Minutes hashes inconsistently spaced
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redpcar
路The quickest "tells" are always the sub dial print and the Seamaster / Omega font.
Your sub dial indices are too long and off center. Once I see this (and am looking for an original dial), I simply move on.
Your sub dial indices are too long and off center. Once I see this (and am looking for an original dial), I simply move on.
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