Suggestions for my next major watch purchase?

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JLC master perpetual, not on your list but an awesome timepiece, especially considering the price.
 
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Only you can say which is best, but my choice would be the VC Overseas chrono. I'm a big chronograph fan, and this has a great movement (Frederic Piguet), a great design and a fantastic bracelet that cleverly and tastefully incorporates the VC Maltese cross logo.
As for vintage, I am one of few who are not interested in the straight lug Speedy varieties. I'm not a fan of the Sub cyclops either. Here I would go for a 1665 "Great White" Sea Dweller. Buy from a trusted source to get one that hasn't been doctored. I (and many others) would suggest contacting Jacek at H.Q. Milton. Honest and knowledgeable, and I have heard the shop is a great place to visit. Bring cash for the best deal.
 
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If vintage, Red Sub from those on your list. A vintage Cosmograph would also feature on mine, if I were in the position to have such a nice dilemma.
 
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I own a 2998 and an Ed White and they are wonderful vintage pieces. However, my AP Royal Oak 15400 is the most stunning steel watch that I own. It is breathtaking to look down at my wrist and see the facets of the watch and bracelet. The tapestry dial is a work of art. My wife has the matching 15450, 37mm, in white dial.

Good luck in your hunt!


It took me a long time to come to appreciate the RO, but the quality of the finishing on the case, bezel and bracelet are what I love about it. Then there's the dial - just icing on the cake! Do you find the brushed steel scratches easily?
 
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JLC master perpetual, not on your list but an awesome timepiece, especially considering the price.
Only you can say which is best, but my choice would be the VC Overseas chrono. I'm a big chronograph fan, and this has a great movement (Frederic Piguet), a great design and a fantastic bracelet that cleverly and tastefully incorporates the VC Maltese cross logo.
As for vintage, I am one of few who are not interested in the straight lug Speedy varieties. I'm not a fan of the Sub cyclops either. Here I would go for a 1665 "Great White" Sea Dweller. Buy from a trusted source to get one that hasn't been doctored. I (and many others) would suggest contacting Jacek at H.Q. Milton. Honest and knowledgeable, and I have heard the shop is a great place to visit. Bring cash for the best deal.
If vintage, Red Sub from those on your list. A vintage Cosmograph would also feature on mine, if I were in the position to have such a nice dilemma.

All great suggestions, thank you much! And @Time Exposure I've never purchased from HQ Milton but I peruse their site frequently and due to my limited experience with vintage Rolex that's probably where I'd feel safest getting my feet wet.
 
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It took me a long time to come to appreciate the RO, but the quality of the finishing on the case, bezel and bracelet are what I love about it. Then there's the dial - just icing on the cake! Do you find the brushed steel scratches easily?

Not yet!!
 
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I personally prefer 15300, but I doubt I will ever be able to afford it. Regardless of which one you choose, the RO would be my choice.
 
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jud jud
I personally prefer 15300, but I doubt I will ever be able to afford it. Regardless of which one you choose, the RO would be my choice.
I prefer the look of the dial a bit better in photos of the 15300, but I've only ever tried on the 15400 and the size felt and looked perfect on my wrist.
 
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Here's a white 1680 to whet your appetite. I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.
 
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Here's a white 1680 to whet your appetite. I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.
gor.
Gee.
Us.
 
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Anything 20k and up tickle you? Maybe really reach for something again and feel a little squeamish, if there is something up there of course!
 
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Here's a white 1680 to whet your appetite. I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.
Me too, its hard to swallow that much of a difference based on just that.
 
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Me too, its hard to swallow that much of a difference based on just that.
It's hard to fathom the premium brought by anything if you think about it.

Bart SImpson?
The premium a little Guild will bring
Meters first?
Dot on nine (on a speedy of course)
Serif...

I mean within the myriad of items that add or subtract value red line is not any stranger than most. But if you don't get it then that's not the one for you of course. Why buy something that you don't appreciate or care about?
 
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Here's a white 1680 to whet your appetite. I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.

If it's "worth it" is something everyone has to decide. My feeling is the people who have one will think it is, and those who don't, won't...



I would not have bought a 1680 if it wasn't red likely (although this one being a one owner watch and having such nice patina I probably would have bought anyway, but might have flipped it by now). This is what appeals to me about this model, and if I wanted an all white vintage Rolex, I would actually prefer a 5513 to a 1680, as I prefer no date and domed crystals usually.

I think Sergio has hit the nail on the head, and this is no more difficult to fathom than any other intricate detail people obsess over on a collectible watch. There is nothing inherently more valuable with red paint than white, but also nothing inherently more valuable with aged creamy lume than with white lume, or the order of feet and meters printed on the dial. It's all perceived value, and in the eye of the beholder. It just so happens that many eyes prefer the red, so they are more valuable. It's really not that difficult to figure out I think...

Cheers, Al
 
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Here's a white 1680 to whet your appetite. I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.

Adam, that is a really lovely example. 😀
 
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I am also of the camp not fathoming why a little bit of red on the dial is worth a $3-5K premium.
Me too, its hard to swallow that much of a difference based on just that.
It's hard to fathom the premium brought by anything if you think about it.

Bart SImpson?
The premium a little Guild will bring
Meters first?
Dot on nine (on a speedy of course)
Serif...

I mean within the myriad of items that add or subtract value red line is not any stranger than most. But if you don't get it then that's not the one for you of course. Why buy something that you don't appreciate or care about?

If it's "worth it" is something everyone has to decide. My feeling is the people who have one will think it is, and those who don't, won't...

I would not have bought a 1680 if it wasn't red likely (although this one being a one owner watch and having such nice patina I probably would have bought anyway, but might have flipped it by now). This is what appeals to me about this model, and if I wanted an all white vintage Rolex, I would actually prefer a 5513 to a 1680, as I prefer no date and domed crystals usually.

I think Sergio has hit the nail on the head, and this is no more difficult to fathom than any other intricate detail people obsess over on a collectible watch. There is nothing inherently more valuable with red paint than white, but also nothing inherently more valuable with aged creamy lume than with white lume, or the order of feet and meters printed on the dial. It's all perceived value, and in the eye of the beholder. It just so happens that many eyes prefer the red, so they are more valuable. It's really not that difficult to figure out I think...

Cheers, Al

All good points. I see both sides to this topic. On one hand, the premium is pretty steep and could be tough for me to justify. But in addition to the aesthetics it is a differentiator and makes it a little more special, especially because Rolex abandoned red text on Subs and SDs so long ago. I think these little incremental changes or one-offs in design are interesting of themselves, but everyone has to decide how much value to place on them. 220 bezels on a 145.022 -69 are a decent example of one for which I'd not personally be willing to pay more, but that's just me I suppose.
 
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Anything 20k and up tickle you? Maybe really reach for something again and feel a little squeamish, if there is something up there of course!

There are watches in every price range that I love! But I'd like to get there in baby steps.
 
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I think these little incremental changes or one-offs in design are interesting of themselves, but everyone has to decide how much value to place on them.

I think that's exactly it - if you don't see the value that's fine, just don't get one. More of them for those of us who do. 😉

It's like anything with watches, as everyone has their own tastes. I have absolutely zero interest in the small gold dress watches (Constellations in particular) that many here go gaga over. I would never pay what these guys pay for those watches, simple because they don't have any appeal to me, but I do understand that they are popular, and in good condition command a good price. Understanding it is one thing, being willing to pay for it is another.

Cheers, Al
 
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How about a panerai submersible? Panerais hold their value and are instantly identifiable.
 
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How about a panerai submersible? Panerais hold their value and are instantly identifiable.
Yep, I've looked at several Panerais over the years. Someday I'll finally get one but so far they've never risen to the top of my list.