Speedmaster Lug Hole Location

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I was changing my Speedmaster out of its bracelet and into a Nato today.

I bought it new last year. I noticed that despite how thick the lugs are, the holes are placed VERY close to the bottom lips. There's some tiny variations between the 4 lug holes, but all of them are quite close to the bottom. There's probably less than a half mm of metal preventing the lug hole from tearing.

Is this normal? It doesn't look like a very solid design. I have seen other brand watches with the lug hole drilled in the middle of the lugs.
 
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There are dozens of different Speedmaster references.
 
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The position of the holes is obviously matches to the design of the bracelet end links. I think that as long as you use authentic spring-bars and keep the original bracelet on it, you should be ok. Those bracelets have very snug fitting solid end links, and I doubt there is much play at all. With a strap, obviously there could be more jiggling and rotation of the spring-bars, so it will be more important to keep it clean and free of grit.
 
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I have the modern 42mm Speedmaster Pro, the 006 model.
I am still waiting on the delivery of mine so I had to scour the web for photos that display the lug holes on the model you have (006).
I don't think it is a different case (pun intended) with the 005, and yes you can see it is not centered and is closer to the "bottom" of the case.

Here you go (2 different watches from 2 different sources)-


(I adjusted the photos to better display the holes so ignore any color / lighting issues)

P.S.
For a NATO you want to use curved spring bars for a better fit.
Edited:
 
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I am still waiting on the delivery of mine so I had to scour the web for photos that display the lug holes on the model you have (006).
I don't think it is a different case (pun intended) with the 005, and yes you can see it is not centered and is closer to the "bottom" of the case.

Here you go (2 different watches from 2 different sources)-


(I adjusted the photos to better display the holes so ignore any color / lighting issues)

P.S.
For a NATO you want to use curved spring bars for a better fit.

No you don’t need curved spring bars for the Nato. The watch ships with two sets of spring bars for the NATO and velcro strap, both sets are straight.
 
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No you don’t need curved spring bars for the Nato. The watch ships with two sets of spring bars for the NATO and velcro strap, both sets are straight.
I did not say you NEED curved spring bars, from information previously mentioned here on OF I learned that for NATO's it is btter to use curved bars because it reduces the stress on the bars.
Maybe it's a myth?
 
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I did not say you NEED curved spring bars, from information previously mentioned here on OF I learned that for NATO's it is btter to use curved bars because it reduces the stress on the bars.
Maybe it's a myth?

Maybe a myth about reducing the stress, but not a myth that some watches will need the curved bars to slip the strap through. This is especially true for the Omega leather NATOs. They are relatively thick, and you can permanently mar the finish by using straight bars and scraping off part of the other hide.

I found on my older Seamaster Pro ceramic (2012-2017 edition) that while I could barely get the nylon NATO straps on with the straight bars, it was a lot easier with the curved bars. Moreover, most of the Omega straps (except leather) aren’t really 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, or 22mm - they are half sizes (~19.5 and ~21.5mm). That allows them to use the same strap on 19mm and 20mm, or 21mm and 22mm. I find that on the smaller lug widths (19.5, 21) using the curved bars helps the strap lie better between the lugs.

I wear all of my NATOs with curved bars for all the reasons listed above.