Mine's C 304XXX.
Not too far apart in the overall scheme of things.
IIRC the Airforce ordered a bunch of two inch K frame style revolvers (M13 not the similar Model 13) to fit in a pocket of a survival vest. I think these were alloy framed. Story goes that the heavier steel frame four inch barrel revolvers or 1911 auto pistols could break the ribs of aircrew due to shock when a chute opened.
Not sure if the alloy framed Model 37 was also intended for such use.
My Model 37 had the early version alloy cylinder as well. One chamber had swollen enough that the larger diameter .38 S&W case would chamber.
Smith and Colt both produced an all alloy gun for the Airforce, the Smith being the M13 and the Colt the Aircrewman, and neither company was able to produce an alloy cylinder that would hold up to use. So in 57 the Airforce abandoned both and went with versions that had steel cylinders.
Professor, have you fired your Model 37?
Many times. I no longer have it, I traded it off about 25 years ago, partly because of the swollen chamber. it was pretty beat up any way. I got it from a guy who found it buried in a lake bottom with the springs rusted away and the grips apparently rotted away. No telling how long it had been down there. My best airgun is also one found in the mud of that lake bottom.
I never used a +P or hot handload in it. I've heard that one should use only 148 gr wad cutters in these but I used a 158 gr semi wad cutter over 3 grains of bulls eye. The light gun, around 11 OZ IIRC kicked harder than any other handgun I've fired including a snub nose .44 Magnum.
Many times when I still had it. One reason i traded it off was the swollen chamber.
I never used +P or hot handloads but I've read that these should only be used with 148 gr wad cutter target loads. I used a 158 gr semi wad cutter over 3 gr of Bulls Eye.
Same O Same O
Restoring a firearm that has been subjected to water damage can be a challenge. Doing the job correctly involves tearing everything down removing the rust, filing out pits etc. Then do some finishing work on the parts.
On the hammer and trigger after it was rebuilt. I used some cold blue rather than trying to case color the parts. Case coloring would have been a big-time pain in the A... It would have been easier to replace the parts.
Sometimes jewelers and watchmaker tools come in handy for working on small parts A staking set is a big plus for taking apart items like triggers, hammers etc. Jewelers files are a big plus filing out rust pits.
On the S&W snub I had to tear everything apart and do whatever was need to restore the parts. I could have replaced the parts.
That would eat up my spare parts or quickly turn into a money pit buying new parts. Then I would have had to fit them to make them work properly. Just as easy to rework the parts. Little by little I’ll get this M&P up and running. Day by day I'm getting close to finishing this one up, you can see in one of the picture I kept the sear, pin and spring together as a group along with the stirrup. That way it all went back together without issues.
Here's another Smith & Wesson .38 Special Model 10 snub, a round butt variation. I special ordered it in late 1995 and took delivery on it the first week of 1996. It was difficult to secure, apparently being at the tail end of 2-inch Model 10 production. Not being content with accepting the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips Smith & Wesson provided as standard at the time, I requested a pair of their custom "Dymondwood" stocks and requested that the stocks be checkered in the manner of traditionally supplied Smith & Wesson stocks rather than to be smooth as appeared in the catalog of the day. The color was termed "rosewood" but the hue is a unique red color which took some getting used to.
The revolver has an unusually fine, smooth action, very tight, yet with a wonderful trigger. It is one of the very last Smith & Wesson revolvers I have purchased brand new. I've wholly gone over to nice used examples of traditional Smith & Wesson revolvers of previous generations.
The Model 10 round butt with a "pinned and recessed" 2 1/2-inch Smith & Wesson Model 66 .357 Magnum also kept on hand here. They're shown with custom holsters ordered out for them.
Rig is very good grease. About ten years ago I switched over to Mobil CM grease and never looked back. Since it's cold in my neck of the woods. I have been carrying this K9 pistol fits well in one of my parka pockets. I deep cleaned and lubed the K9 and used the CM grease.
Smith & Wesson 36? Not yet...model numbers weren't introduced until 1957.
Pre 36? Not yet...this collector designation was after the 1953 changes.
Chief's Special? Not officially but the idea was given this name in Oct 1950 at the national Chief of Police convention. Several changes were to come before the name was officially marketed by S&W later in 1952.
This is one of the earliest little fellas made...a sub 2" nicknamed by collectors as a ''Baby Chief''...made January 1952. no model or name, only markings are S&W and a crazy low serial number.
My favorite little snubbie...model 60 from 1977...smooth as buttah. Pachmayr grips fit just right.
Cleaned the crud off the G19 2-3-5 gens
New G48 didn’t make it in the picture, not dirty enough. Colder than hell today. About 34 degrees and windy as hell
Today I was going through some parts bins. I have a 6904 complete slide so I decided to slip it on a 5906 frame works great. Only minor cosmetic issue the rear of the frame rails extend beyond the rear of the slide. Not a functional issue just cosmetic issue. Since I have the 5906 slide I leave the rails as is. So now I have a 5906 ssv "short slide variant"
No Gen 4?
When I first hired as a police officer in 1970, the first pistol I purchased was a Model 10 2". I can't remember the price exactly, but it was less than $80 brand new. As for the K-frames, the Model 14 was the greatest PPC pistol ever made.
Some days I like shiny steel, others I like it blacked out . Both of these firearms I'm particular proud of. The S&W I bought new when they were hard to get (early 2012) and instantly had the barrel, extractor, levers, and mag coated in TiN, Apex trigger job, extended mag release, trijicon sights and milled the slide for matching serrations on the top and front.
The walther was my grandfathers daily carry and was all stock but sat in a safe for far to long after his death. I took that and had it nickle plated (it was a blued gun) new mag, new oak print grips which if I recall are rosewood. And had a new barrel installed because it deteriorated so badly. I even have his leather shoulder rig which contributed to most of the wear on the slide and wore out the original walther markings (that's good patina in my eye)
Seems I miss a generation in Glocks. Have Gen 1,2, 4,5 in the G17.
I had enough of guns in the army. As for hunting I believe in a sporting chance. If the animals haven't hurt you leave them alone. Just my opinion. Why not just stick to watches and leave the guns to the police and the army where they belong.
Ever hear of shooting sports and self protection?
Yep, no problem with that.
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