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minutenrohr
·More:
Show us your 2577 Omega Seamaster (and a little introduction to the reference)
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Rhobandit
·I have a 2577-11SC, serial 13.24, Caliber 354, straight lugs thicker lugs with no bevel, Seamaster at the bottom of the dial, Caseback with the groove and circle brushing. Does everything look good here? The S in seamaster on the dial looks different than others I have seen, and it is very clean so curious if a redial.
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Porteroso
·I have a 2577-11SC, serial 13.24, Caliber 354, straight lugs thicker lugs with no bevel, Seamaster at the bottom of the dial, Caseback with the groove and circle brushing. Does everything look good here? The S in seamaster on the dial looks different than others I have seen, and it is very clean so curious if a redial.
I should add I'm not an expert, just trying to learn.
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MtV
·Toothpaste-colored lume is also a big red flag. Not only in combination with non-luminous hands.
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ryu_277
·Hi i wanted to add my omega sea master. I don’t know much about omegas, but I got it as a gift and i find it pretty lol.. otherwise I’ll add original photos from the shop it was bought from. Hope yall like it as much as i do.
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Lautrey
·Hi,
I just got this 2577-6 at an auction:
351 movement
linen dial (not sure if it’s original)
Gold index and dauphine hands
No seamaster signature
Serial 14275508 so circa 1954 ?
The bad side : The glass has 2 light scratches making me considering looking for a replacement glass and the watch needs a new seal as i saw some fog build up after lightly polishing the back. I’ll take it to a shop tomorrow.
Leather strap is nice, but i think i’ll get a lighter gray color calf leather or a milanese strap to go with it.
I just got this 2577-6 at an auction:
351 movement
linen dial (not sure if it’s original)
Gold index and dauphine hands
No seamaster signature
Serial 14275508 so circa 1954 ?
The bad side : The glass has 2 light scratches making me considering looking for a replacement glass and the watch needs a new seal as i saw some fog build up after lightly polishing the back. I’ll take it to a shop tomorrow.
Leather strap is nice, but i think i’ll get a lighter gray color calf leather or a milanese strap to go with it.
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MtV
·It is not - in fact, there's not much about this watch that's original I'm afraid and I strongly recommend to not invest any further money in it but to return it if possible.
Issues I can spot at first glance:
-The dial was repainted, and very poorly so
-If you read my first posts of this thread you'll notice yourself this one was cobbled together from parts that weren't meant for each other
-14.2m serial without Seamaster on the dial and in an early case without beveled lugs isn't correct
-14.2m serial and cal 351 isn't correct. 14.2m is deep into cal. 354-territory
-crown is in incorrect replacement
-hands are incorrect replacement
-whatever happened to the 2 in the 12-index
-very bad condition of the case
...
This is a watch someone invested the absolute minimum in, hoping that somebody will buy it. Apologies for the harsh words, but there's nothing positive I can say about it.
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gilb12
·Oh my God 😲
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Lautrey
·-If you read my first posts of this thread you'll notice yourself this one was cobbled together from parts that weren't meant for each other
This is a watch someone invested the absolute minimum in, hoping that somebody will buy it. Apologies for the harsh words, but there's nothing positive I can say about it.
From what i get of it, somebody just raided some part box, and ended up with a frankenwatch of 2236 and 2577. The only 2577 part might be the back case wearing a 2577, making an appointed expert naming it a 2577. Positive thing : watch is working fine and was cheaper than a 351 alone.
I have to disagree on the “not worth investing into” though, if you don’t, you never contribute positively to the state of the vintage watches market beside the speculative side.
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theluckyluke
·You’re free to do what you want with the watch, of course. If you like the watch as is, then great (and that’s what matters).
But going down the rabbit hole of servicing it, replacing parts etc. will add cost you will never recoup on this watch, if ever you want to sell it.
You could even end up spending more than a much better and original example would cost.
If you plan on sticking around, wanting to learn about watches, and perhaps starting collecting, it’s very likely that in a few months, you’ll ask yourself why you have put any more money into it.
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Lautrey
·You’re free to do what you want with the watch, of course. If you like the watch as is, then great (and that’s what matters).
But going down the rabbit hole of servicing it, replacing parts etc. will add cost you will never recoup on this watch, if ever you want to sell it.
You could even end up spending more than a much better and original example would cost.
If you plan on sticking around, wanting to learn about watches, and perhaps starting collecting, it’s very likely that in a few months, you’ll ask yourself why you have put any more money into it.
It’s just nice to give a beat up watch a new history.
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MtV
·When we say „
I applaude our attitude. Do note that most people look at a watch purchase from a financial perspective, too - that’s especially true among those here who’re newly registered and might be shopping for a first or second vintage Omega. That makes for a big part of why we respond the way we do. Take it as a warning that from a purely financial standpoint, this isn’t the way to go. If it’s a fun project to you, though, who are we to say anything against it.
Re the watch: I don’t see what you mean about a 2236 case. Case and case back look 2577 to me. The cal 351 would be correct for this case style, it’s merely the serial that doesn’t match. Might be a replacement bridge with a later serial or something. Depending on how nerdy you want to get, I might well have a bridge somewhere with a serial that matches the caliber number. Drop me a PM if you want me to check.
Good luck on your journey!
Re the watch: I don’t see what you mean about a 2236 case. Case and case back look 2577 to me. The cal 351 would be correct for this case style, it’s merely the serial that doesn’t match. Might be a replacement bridge with a later serial or something. Depending on how nerdy you want to get, I might well have a bridge somewhere with a serial that matches the caliber number. Drop me a PM if you want me to check.
Good luck on your journey!
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phirmhandshake
·Is anyone able to tell if this is a Frankenwatch 2577: https://www.chrono24.com/omega/vint...amaster-automatic-chronometer--id39884259.htm
Based on the seller's date (1952) and the info in the first post of this thread, should this dial say "Officially certified" since it's supposedly a post-1951 watch?
Based on the seller's date (1952) and the info in the first post of this thread, should this dial say "Officially certified" since it's supposedly a post-1951 watch?
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gatorcpa
··ΩF InvestiGatorIMO, the movement was produced in 1950 or 1951. Was probably tested in 1951 and ultimately sold in 1952-53.
I don’t know if there is any “cutoff” serial number for the change in testing standards. There just aren’t enough examples of testing certificates from that era to make an observation.
gatorcpa
I don’t know if there is any “cutoff” serial number for the change in testing standards. There just aren’t enough examples of testing certificates from that era to make an observation.
gatorcpa
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MtV
·I believe this to be a later dial that doesn’t belong in a 2577.
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phirmhandshake
·I believe this to be a later dial that doesn’t belong in a 2577.
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adr_mih
·Hello guys,
Does anyone know the meaning of the C in front of the 2577?
Thanks
Does anyone know the meaning of the C in front of the 2577?
Thanks
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qazwsx1
·My gold ‘golfball dial’ with a matching gold BOR bracelet 😀
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Hetcins1
·Bees knees
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MtV
·A new arrival, yet another „golf ball“ dial. One could think they weren’t actually that rare 😁
This one comes with a „salmon“ patina that, personally, I find rather attractive.
This one comes with a „salmon“ patina that, personally, I find rather attractive.
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