Should I pull the trigger?

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Hey, folks:

To my eyes, this piece is really enticing. The only question I have is this: The case back is stamped "1600" but the sticker on the back notes that it is a "16014." The discrepancy is obvious, but is this a big deal? Also, the lume plots seem a bit off, but that is to be expected of a watch of this age, no?

In short, what do you think? Good grab for the money if I could get him to $4400?

Regards,

Chris


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Hey, folks:

To my eyes, this piece is really enticing. The only question I have is this: The case back is stamped "1600" but the sticker on the back notes that it is a "16014." The discrepancy is obvious, but is this a big deal? Also, the lume plots seem a bit off, but that is to be expected of a watch of this age, no?

In short, what do you think? Good grab for the money if I could get him to $4400?

Regards,

Chris

The case-back is stamped 16000, not 1600, which is not uncommon for a 16014. There is missing lume on the dial and what remains isn't particularly attractive to me.
 
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The case-back is stamped 16000, not 1600, which is not uncommon for a 16014. There is missing lume on the dial and what remains isn't particularly attractive to me.

I do apologize for the typo, but thank you for answering the question. And yes, this was my thought, too: the lume is problematic.
 
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Bad corrosion around the case where the case back seal goes. Id pass and find a better example. This one may have a hard time passing a pressure test.
 
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I once bought a datejust that I thought was a good price at around $2800 without seeing the caseback opened. The repair bills for the pitting no longer made it the steal it seemed. Walk away.
 
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Case corrosion and tritium missing dots would put me off straight away, I would pass, but that’s just mho
 
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Case corrosion and tritium missing dots would put me off straight away, I would pass, but that’s just mho

Yep, I passed on this two weeks ago and instead picked up a '69 Speedy.