Self Hype-Meter: Bulgari vs. Rolex? (But Tudor!)

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I’m here to roast myself a bit. The Bulgari brand continues its impressive streak in horology, if not buyers. Meanwhile Rolex. But Tudor.

The 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie jury just awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” the highest distinction for “finest timepiece of the year,” to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar:




But that’s not all for Bulgari:

-> This year Bulgari had 4 watches as finalists in other categories, and all 4 also were finalists for the grand prize.

-> A Bulgari has won 5 different categories of the Grand Prix over the past 5 years (only one year did it not win a category, but the prior year won two categories), and in those 5 years had at least twice as many more nominated for categories.

-> Perhaps most impressively: this year’s perpetual calendar model was the seventh in an unbroken line since 2014 of Bulgari each year breaking the world record for thinness in new complications (beginning with thinnest automatic, then each year spinning through thinnest chronograph, tourbillon, etc., etc.).

And, for all 7 of those world records, I believe not one has yet been overtaken by another brand.

Really, for next year, I’m hard pressed to think of what complication Bulgari could make as the “thinnest” for which it does not already hold the world record.

Meanwhile Rolex.

I don’t know that Rolex even “enters” these events. If it does not, then it’s not surprising: the most they’ve done in the past 5 years is change the size of the Submariner by 1mm. If Rolex does enter these, then it’s not landed a nomination or prize in the past 7 years (Indidnt look back further).

Perhaps the last “interesting” watch by Rolex was the Sky-Dweller (I have one, and love it).

But Tudor.

In contrast to Rolex, Tudor definitely “enters” these events, and has done rather well over the last several years in the categories of “lower priced” watches, or basic sports models. For example, this year Tudor won the prize for the category “Petite Auguille” (watches with a retail price that falls between 3,500 and 10,000 Swiss francs) for the BB ceramic:




I’d somehow missed this BB ceramic, and I’m rather annoyed to have found it - what an impressive watch for US$4,750!

And Buyers?

Rolex’s newest no-date Submariner is trading well above MSRP, at essentially the same price point as the below-MSRP trade price of Bulgari’s world’s thinnest Octo Finissimo Chronograph-GMT. What are buyers valuing here, precisely?

No doubt the aesthetics of the Octo are divisive - or has hype merely trained us into that aesthetic viewpoint?

I for one think the Octo is incredible looking; and the moment I feel self-conscious about it, I remind myself the Octo is a Genta design contemporary with Genta’s heaviest hitting 70’s sports models (Royal Oak, Nautilus). Even if my aesthetics are off, could Genta’s have been? No, I think Genta was right, and the Octo is an impressive aesthetic addition to any watch box.

There’s also the issue of thinness perhaps deterring buyers. I mean, thin-ness. Perhaps some are hesitant to wear, or have serviced, such a micro-think watch?

In any event, here I sit with a Rolex no-date Sub, but no Octo Finissimo. (In my defense, I got my sub at MSRP.)

I should change this!
 
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I respect brands like Bulgari and Cartier for crossing the fashion/ horology line and doing creative designs. I don’t find either to be my style, but mad respect. I happen to think the Royal oak is about as attractive as a toaster, but again - mad respect.
 
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I happen to think the Royal oak is about as attractive as a toaster, but again - mad respect.




8 years ago I considered a RO my #1 grail, but it was a little bit of a stretch.

Waiting 8 years did not improve things.

That said, I collect 1970’s Italian modern furniture, and the aesthetic of the RO is not for everyone… or so I thought 8 years ago. 😬
 
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8 years ago I considered a RO my #1 grail, but it was a little bit of a stretch.

Waiting 8 years did not improve things.

That said, I collect 1970’s Italian modern furniture, and the aesthetic of the RO is not for everyone… or so I thought 8 years ago. 😬
Totally appreciate that, and I get the Genta esthetic. I think to truly understand any art it’s important to look at the period of esthetic in which it was designed, and the philosophy by which the artist was going.
I have a thing for heritage fragrances. Chanel Pour Homme (one of the first major designer men’s fragrances) was from the mid-50’s with a cool and dry top note of slight citrus and and a clean soapy mid note that lingered over the oakmoss for most of the day. It’s not a modern esthetic, but thinking of its time, it was incredibly clean and modern among a sea of Old Spice and Bay Rum.
Flash forward 10 years and we have Dior’s Eau Savauge (Steve McQueens fragrance of choice BTW) with a very bright and sweet lime opening, a bit of leather and tonka down low and a warm wood in the middle- this was for a more fun loving man, less serious than the Chanel a decade earlier. Same time period (1964) you get Aramis which was an exclusive for Harrod’s originally- heavy notes of lime on top and tons of leather and patchouli- this was for a very masculine and warm wooly vibe- totally about a more rugged country gentlemen.
It’s all about understanding the zeitgeist and their importance in the heritage of fashion.
 
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For being the first non-Omega watch to be certified as a master chronometer, the ceramic Black Bay certainly didn't make much of a splash. There were a few halfhearted hype videos on YouTube, but I don't think anyone really paid them much attention... it was yet another rather uninspired rehash of the Black Bay. It wasn't until I saw it in person at an AD that it really caught my attention. I was surprised, because I'm really not a fan of Tudor or their snowflake hands. Unfortunately, that example had been spoken for. Also unfortunately, the AD wanted a 10% down payment to put on their waitlist. That seemed a little ridiculous to me - what do they think this watch is, a Rolex or something? - but I was seriously considering it as I was that impressed with the watch. Fortunately, I came across someone selling his a decent price - not above retail like most examples on the used market - and I was finally able to get my hands on one. I don't think I've ever been so enamored with a watch. You should definitely pick one up, it's a fantastic watch - blows the black ceramic Seamaster out of the water.

 
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You should definitely pick one up, it's a fantastic watch - blows the black ceramic Seamaster out of the water.

There’s one for sale here on OF just now 😬


I was surprised, because I'm really not a fan of Tudor or their snowflake hands.

Those hands are hit-or-miss for me; but this is a hit.
 
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Just say you want more Rolexes.

😁😁

Specifically, I want to see an Octo Finissimo on the wrist and in hand before I shell out. For the past two years, I’ve barely left the house much less travelled the 4 hours to my nearest Bulgari boutique. Not getting to yet hood one has been my biggest roadblock.

But meanwhile, yes, I would also very much like a vintage GMT. It’s been on my list long before they hype, I only wish I’d pulled the trigger before the (more recent) hype. It’s been on my list since having a thing for the history of GMT/24hr watches.



For the same reasons, it’s the Bulgari OF chrono-GMT in particular I’m interested in - thinnest ever made.

When it comes to modern Rolex, though: I don’t have anything more I’m that interested in. If I had an opportunity to buy a new GMT at MSRP, I’d think hard on it.
 
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😁😁

Specifically, I want to see an Octo Finissimo on the wrist and in hand before I shell out. For the past two years, I’ve barely left the house much less travelled the 4 hours to my nearest Bulgari boutique. Not getting to yet hood one has been my biggest roadblock.

But meanwhile, yes, I would also very much like a vintage GMT. It’s been on my list long before they hype, I only wish I’d pulled the trigger before the (more recent) hype. It’s been on my list since having a thing for the history of GMT/24hr watches.



For the same reasons, it’s the Bulgari OF chrono-GMT in particular I’m interested in - thinnest ever made.

When it comes to modern Rolex, though: I don’t have anything more I’m that interested in. If I had an opportunity to buy a new GMT at MSRP, I’d think hard on it.
Hold out for an older GMT. They wear incredibly well- very slim (pre-maxi case). I always thought they wore the same as a sub until I got a sub and realized how svelte the GMT is in comparison. The newer ones are chunkier which loses part of their appeal IMO. The ones from the 90’s can still be had for a “decent price” relative to new or 4 or 5-digit.
 
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Hold out for an older GMT. They wear incredibly well- very slim (pre-maxi case). I always thought they wore the same as a sub until I got a sub and realized how svelte the GMT is in comparison. The newer ones are chunkier which loses part of their appeal IMO. The ones from the 90’s can still be had for a “decent price” relative to new or 4 or 5-digit.

I’m with you here, on all points.
 
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😁😁

Specifically, I want to see an Octo Finissimo on the wrist and in hand before I shell out. For the past two years, I’ve barely left the house much less travelled the 4 hours to my nearest Bulgari boutique. Not getting to yet hood one has been my biggest roadblock.

But meanwhile, yes, I would also very much like a vintage GMT. It’s been on my list long before they hype, I only wish I’d pulled the trigger before the (more recent) hype. It’s been on my list since having a thing for the history of GMT/24hr watches.



For the same reasons, it’s the Bulgari OF chrono-GMT in particular I’m interested in - thinnest ever made.

When it comes to modern Rolex, though: I don’t have anything more I’m that interested in. If I had an opportunity to buy a new GMT at MSRP, I’d think hard on it.

Bro, no one ever wants thinner. They want thicker.
 
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I might have maybe traded some things for some other thing possibly.

😗
 
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Can you still do a countdown from 3 two 1?
 
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Can you still do a countdown from 3 two 1?

Oh yes, very much; I don’t think that’s a skill I’ll ever lose.
 
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Oh yes, very much; I don’t think that’s a skill I’ll ever lose.
So what went if you kept the 321?
 
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So what went if you kept the 321?

Mainly, rhymes with flanda blokeeyo blointte-blointte
 
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I absolutely love mine. I wear it as a casual watch. It's light and thin but it feels solid and well made. I can't stop looking at it.

 
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Unboxed, set, first 5 minutes on the wrist.

Nothing remotely like it has been near my watch box before.

Edited:
 
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Unboxed, set, first 5 minutes on the wrist.

Nothing remotely like it has been near my watch box before.


Fantastic, congrats. I'm the same way... all my other pieces are vintage, there's nothing else even close to it in my collection