Seiko 6139 Upjewelling

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Following on from @JimInOz thread on Seiko Barrel Arbor Jewels it was time to take my Seiko servicing up a notch and jewel the barrel arbors.
Still can't get my lathe working at the moment so I decided to go down the jewelling tool route with my Favorite set.


I had bought a few sets of bridge and baseplate jewels from a good Seiko source, and had purchased a suitable reamer from Cousins a while back, and my stump arrived from VTA a couple of days ago. As it was my first effort, thought I'd best break out a scrap movement to play with rather than risking a good one.


First part was simple - push out the bush from the bridge. A bit of a wipe and then push the jewel in its place. It's easy this watchmaking malarkey isn't it?


The onto the next stage - use the new stump to mount the baseplate and the reamer to open out the hole to 1.599, then use a countersink to take off the burrs from both sides and give a slight chamfer to the new hole.


So far so good. I think? After this a broach to open the hole a little more. The select a stake and use it to push the new jewel in.
Hmm. Not sure what happened. I suspect that the hole was not opened up enough? Or I used a poor selection of stake (the jewel stuck to the stake rather than going into the hole. In any case, it was not pleasant. I'll have to have a rethink and revisit it.


Any hints or tips on what I cocked up gratefully received! I'll have another play when I get a chance, but won't be until either the weekend or next week now.
Phil
 
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I think you need to use a smoothing broach to open up the hole a little more. Measure the diameter of the jewel, and then the diameter of the broach shaft at the point where it went to depth in the plate. You can see the brass on the surface of the broach.
The broach has a taper, so seat the jewel from the same side as you insert the broach.
Get as close as you can and then set the jewel in the chamfer and use a flat end stake a fraction larger than the jewel to seat it.
Good luck with it.
 
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I think you need to use a smoothing broach to open up the hole a little more. Measure the diameter of the jewel, and then the diameter of the broach shaft at the point where it went to depth in the plate. You can see the brass on the surface of the broach.
The broach has a taper, so seat the jewel from the same side as you insert the broach.
Get as close as you can and then set the jewel in the chamfer and use a flat end stake a fraction larger than the jewel to seat it.
Good luck with it.
Thanks - sound advice. I will be having another crack (pardon the pun) at this as soon as time allows.
 
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Pip Pip
Thanks - sound advice. I will be having another crack (pardon the pun) at this as soon as time allows.
Tip: Buy the jewels in bulk, the more you buy the cheaper each one becomes.
(mean the plate jewel, the bridge jewel always goes in well).
 
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Tip: Buy the jewels in bulk, the more you buy the cheaper each one becomes.
(mean the plate jewel, the bridge jewel always goes in well).
I bought ten sets, meaning I now have 9.5 sets left as I can push out the bridge jewel I used and use it again!
 
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Ok, finally got around to this... it's been a busy winter! In the scrapper movement i redid the reaming using the same technique but going a bit deeper (don't think I went far enough last time in retrospect) and then smoothed. Could do with the next set up of smoothing broaches as I was at the very end of my largest ones.
And success! Thanks everyone for the input. I've a couple more 6139's sat on the bench so will be upjewelling those next. If I get time I may service and rebuild, test and note amplitude, then upjewel and retest to see what improvement it makes. But like a lot of us, getting time to do stuff like this is probably the biggest challenge I face.