Seeking Advice on a 145.012-67 "Restoration"

[masteroftime]

After taking a few month hiatus from being active on the forum (while studying for the bar exam, traveling, and starting a new job). I have an overdue find to share with you and hopefully get some insight/advice from the more experienced Speedy owners.

I’ve always been interested in owning a “Premoon speedy” and figured it may be a nice graduation gift to myself. I had been keeping an eye on 145.012’s and 145.022-69’s. Well, while taking a lunch break in July I saw a recent listing (within 30 min) on eBay for a 145.012-67. The seller mentioned that the watch was serviced by Swatch in NJ in the 1990’s and they replaced the “dial, hands, etc”

However, I noticed it had a step dial and long indices. I took a punt on it and made an offer…..and it was immediately accepted. It seemed like a bargain! Here is a listing photo:





However, it almost didn’t make it through the ebay authenticators, because the reset wasn’t working properly. The sundials reset but the center chronograph seconds hand does not reset. The seller ended up offering a generous price reduction to help pay for a service. It ended up looking nice in person:





I replaced the 1171 with an original holzer that I snagged on eBay shortly after buying the watch. I’ve reviewed speedmaster101 and MWO, and it seems to be an original dial with the lume cleanly removed. The crystal, hands, bezel, crown, and bracelet are clear service replacements. The serial number is 26,54X,XXX. The case is pretty nice, but has signs of polishing (such as on the caseback). I haven’t done much to the watch since, as I didn’t want to unnecessarily wear the movement especially with the reset issue, but I’d love your thoughts.

I originally paid between poor and fair according to the currrent speedmaster101 chart. Was it worth buying in your opinions consdering the work it needs? I’ve since been pondering two options:

1) service as is. Considering the damage is already done from a past service, the scarcity of 321 parts and the lack of any flaking lume that would require the dial be replaced, I could send it to Bienne for a service and request they don’t touch the case. This way I could get the benefit of a flat service rate (including potentially pricey parts), modern service teardrop hand chrono hand, and a service decimal bezel. I figure the service parts with clean dial would at least look consistent. After the warranty runs out, it would still leave the option of #2.

2) Relume dial, find hands, and service it independently. I was offered what seem to be correct tritium hands and could have the dial relumed by Alchemist relumer. Then I can search for somebody to take on the service. This seems a little harder, as it seems that many watchmakers with parts accounts don’t like to touch 321’s. I’m also not sure this is as cost effective from a restoration perspective, especially if I have to buy a DON.

 

[padders]

1) I don't think Bienne would do that for the already steep flat rate on the website, it would be a special order type of thing and they may insist certain parts are replaced that you don't want swapping. I suspect that wont be your best option. It is worth having the conversation perhaps but don't be surprised when a 4 figure quote comes back. If they do fit a bunch of modern 321 parts for the flat chronograph fee though that would be obviously great. A new dial would be chargeable by they way, not all replacement parts are included in a service.

2) A nice relume would look better certainly but what is there now isnt too objectionable. I prefer a washed dial to grotty grey green mould personally.

I think you did OK, it was certainly cheap for a 321 but when compared with say a 1980 or 90s model with a similar look not super cheap, around the same so opinions may vary. I snagged a cheapish 145.012-68 a few years ago so was in a similar boat, though mine had less to put back. In the end what was out of whack annoyed me to the point where I sold it but YMMV of course.

 

[Dan S]

Maybe the watchmakers can comment, but I'm not sure that a parts account will help much with this watch, especially since it already has the necessary service parts. A basic movement service from an independent watchmaker would be a minimal approach for a nice watch to wear. My concern about approach #2 is that by the time you are done buying the period-correct parts and having the watch relumed and serviced, you will probably have so much into the watch that you could have purchased something totally correct to begin with.

 

[masteroftime]

padders

1) I don't think Bienne would do that for the already steep flat rate on the website, it would be a special order type of thing and they may insist certain parts are replaced that you don't want swapping. I suspect that wont be your best option. It is worth having the conversation perhaps but don't be surprised when a 4 figure quote comes back. If they do fit a bunch of modern 321 parts for the flat chronograph fee though that would be obviously great. A new dial would be chargeable by they way, not all replacement parts are included in a service.

Thank you for the insight! It is super helpful to hear it from someone who was in a similar boat. I'm sure a later example may have been a better pursuit for the vintage look. I think I was mostly enticed by the idea of having a slightly closer "connection" to what was worn on the moon, and getting a step dial. If it didn't have the dial, I most likely wouldn't have bought it for the 321 on its own.

Honestly, I hadn't considered this wouldn't be covered under their flat rate. You may be right. I didn't expect a total free ride, but they always seem to replace a ton of movement parts for the flat rate. Assuming they would be fine with the dial, I would otherwise be content paying extra for a new bezel.

I initally got the idea for option 1 from an ebay auction I saw just after buying this. Although the watch had a nice DON, it also had a washed dial and other service parts. The seller mentioned it was serviced by Omega:

 

[itsjustausername]

I recognize myself a bit too much in these "should I do this, that, or is there a third thing I'm not seeing?!" musings

Personally, I would just get the movement serviced and wear it as is. Doing a full resto will likely cost more than a future trade-up to a more 'correct' specimen, but that's only if you care about that vintage vibe. Who knows, maybe you'll form a special bond with this clinically clean cal 321 step-dial!