Seamaster 300m ref 2220.80

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I've read online that the Seamaster 300m ref 2220.80 was nutorisous for having seizing issues due to the fact that the A, B and C iterations of the Caliber 2500 movement was very problematic. However all these issues were resolved when Omega released the Caliber 2500D movement(which was used in the SMP-C), which had a more refined Co Axial mechanism to resolve the seizing issues.

Is this true?

As I had found a shop with the Seamaster 300M ref 2220.80, full set for a very reasonable price. But I didn't purchase it due to what I found out online about the issue with the Caliber 2500A, B and C movements.
 
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I'm pretty sure I have a 2500 C and never had any issues. At this point, it shouldn't matter if you bought an A, B, or C. The watch is old enough where it should've been serviced and resolved by now.
 
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I'm pretty sure I have a 2500 C and never had any issues. At this point, it shouldn't matter if you bought an A, B, or C. The watch is old enough where it should've been serviced and resolved by now.
I've heard Omega was not able to resolve the lub seizing issues on any of the 2500 A, B or C movements. Not sure if it was an issue due to the lub that was used in the 2500 movement that caused this issue
 
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Omega made the D variant a three level movement, which was a notable improvement, IMO. Don't have any experience with the 2500A/B/C variants, but my 2500D SMPc has been rock solid.
 
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Omega made the D variant a three level movement, which was a notable improvement, IMO. Don't have any experience with the 2500A/B/C variants, but my 2500D SMPc has been rock solid.
Yeah, I know that the 2500D was what finally resolved the issue. But I think that movement is only available on the SMP-C model and not the 2220.80
 
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Yeah, I know that the 2500D was what finally resolved the issue. But I think that movement is only available on the SMP-C model and not the 2220.80
No, the 2500D was also used in the 22208000. If I were buying one, I would get the D version.
 
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No, the 2500D was also used in the 22208000. If I were buying one, I would get the D version.
I didn't know that. I thought it was only the A, B and C movements were used in the 2220.80. Shame that you need to open up the watch to be able to see which version of the movement is used in it
 
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I didn't know that. I thought it was only the A, B and C movements were used in the 2220.80. Shame that you need to open up the watch to be able to see which version of the movement is used in it
If you can get the full serial number from the seller, you can call Omega and ask them what version is in the watch. Or post it here and I can look it up for you...
 
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With the PO there is a tell with the date wheel font showing which version of 2500 is fitted. I believe there is carry over with this to the SMP also ie you don't need to open the watch. One other thing is that there was a serial cut off around 2011 after which only the D version was fitted. Again that info is out there somewhere. Note this means the SMP only had the D spec for about a year before being replaced by the SMPc.

Don't dismiss Archer's offer above though, he has access to info mere mortals can't see and has saved countless buyers from heartbreak.
 
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If you can get the full serial number from the seller, you can call Omega and ask them what version is in the watch. Or post it here and I can look it up for you...
Many thanks, I certainly will take you up on your offer. When I do decide to purchase a 2220.80, the shop where I saw the 2220.80 has already sold it. But when I do see another 2220.80, I will be sure to ask you to help check if it is a 2500D movement.
 
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Many thanks, I certainly will take you up on your offer. When I do decide to purchase a 2220.80, the shop where I saw the 2220.80 has already sold it. But when I do see another 2220.80, I will be sure to ask you to help check if it is a 2500D movement.
One quick tell, if the papers are dated much before 2011, it will be a 2500C as you can't convert one to the other.
 
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One quick tell, if the papers are dated much before 2011, it will be a 2500C as you can't convert one to the other.
Many thanks, padders. I am learning quite allot about the 2220.80.
 
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Just resurrecting this thread as I’ve got my eye on 2220.80 from the Japanese seller Closer.

I didn’t realise this was issue in these although had heard that 2500d was the better movement.

The watch I’ve picked out has a reference starting 81745 which I believe dates it around 2011 although the warranty card states 2018 so may have been old stock
 
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Just resurrecting this thread as I’ve got my eye on 2220.80 from the Japanese seller Closer.

I didn’t realise this was issue in these although had heard that 2500d was the better movement.

The watch I’ve picked out has a reference starting 81745 which I believe dates it around 2011 although the warranty card states 2018 so may have been old stock
The font on the date wheel will tell you if it's a D. That assumes the date wheel hasn't been changed--but that's not common.

 
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Yeah that makes sense reading through that post. Given the ref number and date wheel font I’m assuming it’s a D

I'm not so sure. 1's look similar on both. That's the one (no pun intended!) number you don't want to use to determine a C from a D.
Edited:
 
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Look for pics of the first ceramic bezel generation of SMP's to tell what each number should look like for the 2500D. The one with no wave. Those are all D models.

Go on Chrono24 and search Omega 212.30.41.20.03.001--those are all D's. Lot's of numbers to compare. If I recall correctly, the numbers for the 2531.80 (Brosnan era SMP with the 1120 movement) and the 2500C models are the same. So you can review those to see what the C numbers look like. Again, 1's on the C and D are very similar. But all other numbers and very distinct.
Edited:
 
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Yeah that makes sense reading through that post. Given the ref number and date wheel font I’m assuming it’s a D

I can look it up if you provide me with the serial number...
 
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I can look it up if you provide me with the serial number...
Unfortunately I’ve got the first few digits- 81745
 
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Unfortunately I’ve got the first few digits- 81745
I would need the complete number.