Hi, I am in the market for a vintage Omega Seamaster and have a line on one. When I go to see the watch, I'd like to examine the movement if the seller allows me. I realize that the Seamaster Deville movement is removed from the front. Is this process difficult (removal and replacement)? Is there a resource available online to tell me what to look for when purchasing a vintage Omega? Thank you.
It depends on what type of front loader case it is. One require removal of the bezel/crystal combined. The other requires a special compression tool to remove just the crystal. And then there is the tool needed to put it all back together. Because of this, most "non-watchmaker" sellers would be unable or very reluctant to open the watch. Due to the fact that it's more difficult than a snap/screwback, these movements have usually avoided the fiddler/fixer and are normally in good condition. The condition of the dial can sometimes be an indicator of internal condition, eg: stains or marks near the stem area could indicate water ingress. Sometimes you have to take a gamble.
Top loaders have a few "gotcha's". 1. If the crystal has to be compressed. It could crack/break or simply leave un-sightly scratches 2. If it has a 2 piece stem, they occasionally break. 3. Some of the Omega top loaders require an inner retention ring to be maneuvered to allow the movement to be removed. Sometimes bad things happen with the balance wheel. 4. Then you have the whole ordeal of handling the dial carefully once removed. If I was an average seller, I would say "no". If this person is a watchmaker, he might do it. If the seller has a timegrapher, you can simply snap it on there and get somewhat of an idea what's going on inside. my $.02
Not an easy job. It took me a bicycle airpump to open one. As stated above not recommended unless you really know what you are doing.
You will notice engraving on the back of the watch that says "Tool 107" and that tool is the correct tool for removing the crystal, not what is shown in that video. The tool grabs all around the circumference of the crystal, and uses the top of the case for the tool to push against as it lifts the crystal out: Using compressed air works, but in instances where the crystal is in very tight it can be risky. Having used this method before I had the right tools, one watch where the crystal was very tight had some distortion of the balance spring caused by the rapid decompression when the crystal finally came out. It is a method of last resort IMO... Cheers, Al
Thanks Jim. I believe this will be the case for me - the seller will be reluctant to allow me to open the case. So, I will have to examine the watch as closely as I can and take that gamble you mentioned.
Thanks. It's a picture of my Elgin 16 size Grade 454 with power reserve indicator. I have many pocket watches and some wrist watches in my collection. I'd like to add an Omega. My taste and interests lie with vintage and older elegant designs.
Went to see the watch today. It was a nice clean example - clean dial with original dial lettering, nice hands, clean crisp corners on the lugs and no attempts at reconditioning such as over polishing. Luckily the owner had pictures of the movement taken at its last servicing (recently too). The watch appeared to run very nicely. In short, an honest watch but not a great watch. A couple of things concerned me: 1. The Omega logo just below 12:00 was raised gold lettering. The "G" in the OMEGA name had its bar missing, possibly broken off, resulting in "OMECA". 2. The case was completely void of any markings whatsoever. The back was steel, the front gold. There was no embossed Sea horse on the back (I was expecting) and no hallmarks near the lugs. Could this be a replacement case? 3. The straps were cheap aftermarket replacements, plain leather. I didn't get the watch but said I'd think about it. Should I be worried about any of the issues I've raised?
