Redial, question on value?

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Hey, we're all new at some things, right? If you're willing to help me learn, for the sake of argument, what would distinguish a good one from this one? I'm happy to be pointed to another thread if you're aware of one.

Find a reference you like (number marked inside the case back) and study as many examples as you can. You've already spotted the problem with "AUTOMATIC" in the example you posted. Additionally SWISS MADE is in the wrong position and Seamaster is not really correct as well.

Details will vary from reference to reference and so do dial styles.

As others have noted, with some patience there is really no need to settle for something which isn't correct.
 
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Hey, we're all new at some things, right? If you're willing to help me learn, for the sake of argument, what would distinguish a good one from this one? I'm happy to be pointed to another thread if you're aware of one.
The case has been polished a lot to remove the facets from the lugs and bezel. An SS watch should have a crisp look and not soft like a bar of soap. This is a nogo by itself.
The dial has numerous problems to a collector despite a “clean” general appearance. The minute marks have a few problems, Swiss made is too high, fonts are incorrect, automatic and relume as noticed by you, second hand too short. So many issues would be hard for me to overlook.
I don’t think these are so uncommon so wait for a better one or pay a little more for a good one. You are trying to recreate your memory of an authentic watch, so best stick with original condition ones.
 
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Okay, ya bastids, I know you've been on pins and needles waiting for the outcome. I read all of my assignments, and very much appreciate the time a few of you took to offer your experienced counsel. I knew I was gonna chase the rabbit down its hole; in hindsight, that's why I made the initial post, because I needed people with expertise to help me understand what I didn't know.

You'll all be relieved that I didn't go for the original. Instead, I found a nice sample that was sold by Hodinkee to a fellow a couple years back, and he ended up selling it to me. It's nearly double what I wanted to spend, but, as they say, the bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

As far as my addled memory can tell, this is exactly the design my dad had, and the date, 1956, is precisely when he would have bought it.

Thanks for all your help, sincerely.

 
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Soft case and a poor redial. I would put the value below $400.

Edit: Just read the follow-up. That's a better watch by far, IMO. Some condition issues, but nothing too distracting, and the case is much nicer. I'd put a value of about $600 on it.
 
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Hey, we're all new at some things, right? If you're willing to help me learn, for the sake of argument, what would distinguish a good one from this one? I'm happy to be pointed to another thread if you're aware of one.

I think there are plenty of resources on the forum regarding Omega brand.

The best way to find it is not using the searchbar of the forum but to go on Google and type "site: omegaforums.net whatIWantToFind"

Trust me once you starts digging, it only strenghten your passion and enhances your curiosity 😉


Edit:

Remove the whitespace between site: and omegaforums.net, I could not make it work since it's an emoji haha
 
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Okay, ya bastids, I know you've been on pins and needles waiting for the outcome. I read all of my assignments, and very much appreciate the time a few of you took to offer your experienced counsel. I knew I was gonna chase the rabbit down its hole; in hindsight, that's why I made the initial post, because I needed people with expertise to help me understand what I didn't know.

You'll all be relieved that I didn't go for the original. Instead, I found a nice sample that was sold by Hodinkee to a fellow a couple years back, and he ended up selling it to me. It's nearly double what I wanted to spend, but, as they say, the bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

As far as my addled memory can tell, this is exactly the design my dad had, and the date, 1956, is precisely when he would have bought it.

Thanks for all your help, sincerely.

Looks like you found what you were looking for and its quite nice- if/when you have it serviced share the inside details!
 
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I enjoyed this story, and was pleased with the outcome! Before I read the happy ending, I was going to comment about time.

I've found it's worth biding one's time to find the right piece at the right price. Other than domain knowledge, time is often your best friend. And not being too bothered if you miss one on eBay/wherever is a secondary skill too. I've just added a '68 Genève to my collection and I've been looking for the right one at the right price since January. The one I got has a couple of compromises, but it was worth not leaping after I first got the bug over half a year ago.
 
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Forgive me; I was out of town for an August vacation. Even OF isn't as much fun as hiking and eating in Big Sur. I'm a lucky person.

I appreciate everybody's comments and thought I'd offer a few last musings of my own. Feel free to ignore, of course.

It's very hard to find reliable information on the value of an item if you're not a Collector, as I'm not. (I capitalize the C advisedly. I have a handful of watches, many of which have particular meaning to me, but I don't keep up with the online boards or with the market, and I don't "invest" in watches — as I know most of you don't either. So I don't consider myself a collector of watches. Or at least not a Collector.)

I do have a fancy turntable and a large LP collection; the LPs are easily worth six figures. I've bought every one of them myself, all around the US and other countries too. I have a very rare early pressing of a Miles Davis album that I found for $15, and a lot of similar stories. Hey, I bought a lot of stuff in the 1990s, when everybody was dumping their vinyl.

LPs are like watches in one regard: They have intrinsic value, in addition to just being objects. You really can't do anything with a Hummel figurine or a Beanie Baby except look at it, but an LP has a utilitarian value as well. It glorious music on it, as a watch has the intrinsic and important duty of telling the time. An LP that may be "worth" $50 could sell for three or four times that amount, if a person has been looking for years to complete a set, to replace a girlfriend's copy that he trashed when he rolled a blunt on it, or to give to a new partner or even an old spouse who likes an obscure band from their teenage years.

In the same sense, my priorities, and my sense of value of a particular watch, may be very different from those of the Collectors here.

I do know how to do Boolean Google searches, and I'm pretty good at soaking up information (read: obsessive) when I go hunting. But as a non-Collector, I was seeking a very specific piece. And I can say confidently that the watch I bought is probably much rarer than you think, because you've probably seen a thousand almost like it, but not quite. I wanted the exact one I've found — 12/3/6/9 numerals, no date, no pie-pan coloring, automatic movement. (I might have compromised on a manual-winder — thanks to the fellow who suggested that — but that's the only place I think I would have done so.) I've seen every 1950s Seamaster advertised online, here, as well as at Rolex Forums, Chrono24, WatchUSeek, and eBay, and some other sites too. By my figuring, that's upwards of 3000 1950s Seamasters, and there are maybe 10 that fit the bill. None of them is nearly as clean as the one I bought.

Because I'm not a Collector, my idea of what this watch is "worth" is probably different from yours. @Dan S said it's worth maybe $600. But my perspective is not the same as Dan's, and I paid far more because I know how hard it is to find this one, and because a dealer or Collector doesn't account for things like sentimental value, time invested, and other intangibles involved in non-Collectors' searches and purposes. I don't think a dealer or Collector should account for those things. But I do and that's why its value may be higher to me than to you.

Anyway, sorry to go on a bit. I am definitely not meaning to pick any fights, and if anything strikes you that way, please accept my apologies. I really am grateful for those who took the time to contribute their thoughts. I'm happy with the watch, and to me it was a reasonable purchase. May you have nothing but good feelings about yours as well.
 
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I'm happy that the watch is giving you joy, and I think we all understand why it can be worth paying-up for a watch that one wants. We've all done it. Just because a particular watch might have a certain fair market value doesn't mean that a given seller is willing to part with it for that amount. Sometimes if you REALLY want a specific watch, you just have to pay the asking price.

I think you probably understand that I was giving you my best estimate of fair market value, which can be useful to know, because almost every watch is eventually sold, as our tastes change, we upgrade to better examples, etc. In this case, we're not talking about a lot of money in absolute terms, so even if you take a loss of $500-$1000 at some point it's not going to be life-changing. And you get to enjoy the watch in the meantime.
 
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I'm happy that the watch is giving you joy, and I think we all understand why it can be worth paying-up for a watch that one wants. We've all done it. Just because a particular watch might have a certain fair market value doesn't mean that a given seller is willing to part with it for that amount. Sometimes if you REALLY want a specific watch, you just have to pay the asking price.

I think you probably understand that I was giving you my best estimate of fair market value, which can be useful to know, because almost every watch is eventually sold, as our tastes change, we upgrade to better examples, etc. In this case, we're not talking about a lot of money in absolute terms, so even if you take a loss of $500-$1000 at some point it's not going to be life-changing. And you get to enjoy the watch in the meantime.

Yes, we’re absolutely on the same page and I get your perspective. No problem. Thanks!