Recommendations: Dress Chronographs

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Hello friends of the Omega forums. I am a relatively novice watch collector. I dipped my toes into the hobby during 2019 when I purchased for my self a lovely 1968 Omega Cosmic with a blue sunburst dial. Since then I have made a few cautious purchases, always with an eye to value and long term ownership. Over the last 4 years I have grown my collection and learned a few things about my personal style and the kinds of watches that interest me the most. I seem to have a definite interest in vintage watches, the watches I wear the most tend to be thinner rather than thicker, and lean dressier rather than sporty.



Of all the watches that I have collected none are more complicated that a 3 hander with a date. I think I would like to add a little more in that regard with my next purchase. After a little debate between a calendar watch or a chronograph I think that I would prefer a chronograph. Mostly because I find it a bit of a fuss to set the date on watches after leaving them off my wrist for a few weeks and I can imagine that the frustration is only compounded when you add a day and a month on top of all of those things (not really interested in a winder as I don't have a great spot for one). Also just because hunting for calendar watches seems like a an easy way to find yourself with an expensive project.



When looking for watches I have had a little success organizing my search biased off of movement family rather than brand or model. A Valjoiux or Lemania biased caliber would be fantastic as it seems they were produced in greater quantities than say an Excelsior Park so sourcing parts or watch makers will be a little easier. I really pride myself on keeping my watches in good mechanical shape and movement design is one of the reasons I enjoy the collecting hobby. Valjoiux 22, 72, 71, or 23, Lemania 2310 (Omega 321, or 320), Zenith El Primero cals, and EP 44 movements are all super attractive to me. I will admit some of this is driven by a serious case of champagne taste beer budget. My favourate new watch I have ever tried on was the Vacheron Constantin 1955 Cornes De Vache Chronograph in Steel.



I was wondering if I could prevail on the collective expertise and hours spent pouring over watch references of this forum to extract some advice on how to go about my hunt and excellent references to look for that fit my bill. The request is this. Fill this thread with cool vintage or new dress chronographs. As many photos as you can find, all the dream references that come to mind. As much on the affordable end of the spectrum as possible but feel free to share the watches that you see in your dreams as well. I will kick us off with as nice picture of a good example of an old betitling top time.

 
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If you really want to focus on affordability, you could look for stainless steel “Chronograph Suisse” watches from the 50s and 60s. Avoid the more common gold cases, as they’ll be plated or filled. These typically have a Landeron movement, so not as nice as the column wheel movements you mention. But they can be had for under $500 if you’re patient.
 
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Oh, and if you’re really on a budget, don’t overlook the Seagull 1963. Wait for the sales and you can pick up a brand new column wheel chronograph (Venus 175 movement, more or less) with a rich and interesting history for well under $150.
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Lot's of pictures of "cool vintage and new dress chronographs" at this Forum.

Someone should invent a way to request information from a database and then have it served up for perusal.


My contribution
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Or if you want a strictly dress chronograph with out the the pretension of being any thing else than a dress watch a Raymond Weil fits that perfectly.

 
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I have been tentatively thinking in the same direction as the OP.

When buying vintage, you will likely need to factor in the servicing cost as no seller will pay for a good service on a relatively "low budget" chronograph and then sell it to you (or me) at the price of the service.

For that reason I have been looking at the Seagull 1963 (Vénus 175) that @sathomasga mentioned, too - but I'm not too sure about the overtly military styling. Of course the styling totally makes sense, because this is a modern version of a watch that was made for the Chinese Air Force, and it looks pretty nice on a mesh bracelet, as well. So maybe ...

But in the meantime, I found something else that has the same movement, the Baltic Bicompax 002. Costs about 4-5x the price of the Seagull 1963, but in my eyes, it is vastly more appealing to me aesthetically... Personally, I like the Blue Gilt version best, but both the black and the silver versions are nice, too. Here's a picture of the silver one that I nabbed from their website (https://baltic-watches.com/en/products/bicompax-002-silver):

 
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Looking at vintage only.

In my own watch box those does fill this job for me :
- Zenith El Primero 01.0210.415

- Omega Seamaster 145.018

- Omega De Ville 146.017

But obviously this is very much debatable as some can considers all those way too big or too chunky to be dressy. I took the pics I found on my computer but they go very well with a shirt & jacket too : more on a what we use to call 'casual Friday' style though.

If I were today on the market for a dress one, and not going too far budget wise, I will look at :
- Angelus chronographs & UG cal 285 for a vintage 'gentleman' touch

- Zenith 146D or a Excelsior Park Snow White for a clean silver cut

Very fine examples are regularly shared here.
EP : https://omegaforums.net/threads/the-excelsior-park-chrono-thread.158428/
Angelus : https://omegaforums.net/threads/show-some-angelus-love.80600/

Hope this helps
 
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If you are into vintage there are many options (price points) from Angelus to Patek … Most important is to have a watchmaker who can service them. The current shop I use charges between $4-600 but I have paid as much as $1800 from a Chicago shop when I first got into these. I have quite a few from Gallet, Longines, UG….
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IWC Portugieser is a timeless classic chronograph , the black dial versions wear a little smaller even.
 
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Dressy and practically stollen off a member here many years ago…..