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I'm not sure it would originally have been on a bracelet, but if you like 5-row BOR bracelets, #12 endlinks will probably work.
I'm not sure it would originally have been on a bracelet, but if you like 5-row BOR bracelets, #12 endlinks will probably work.
Since you opened the door, I’m going to walk in.
There are some major issues with the OP’s watch.
1. The medallion on this case is not original. An original would not have brickwork on the Observatory. That one could be from a later “C” case.
2. IMO, the dial has been repainted. The “tell” for me is location of “Swiss Made”. It is just incorrect. There are some other concerns as well.
Anyway, my point is that if you want a full original and can return the watch, you should. If you don’t mind the issues and want to keep it, that’s OK, but I would not recommend putting more money into a rather expensive bracelet.
Hope this helps,
gatorcpa
J Jeff2855I appreciate the comments and information. Watch criticism doesn't offend me. I have very little money in it and the watch has zero sentimental value.
That's good to hear. Sometimes we see certain watches that are not completely authentic and we wonder if we should tell. But if somebody does'nt ask about authenticity maybe it's best not to mention something about it.
J Jeff2855I also have some Omegas that I am fairly certain are fakes but older and should generate some good discussion. Where should I post those within this site?
I mostly agree with Dan, but I would suggest #11 (511) end links because of the curvature.
Omega sells the 3010/511 new for $450 if that's what you choose to do. Otherwise troll eBay and the accessory sales forum here for vintage versions.
J Jeff2855What is the difference between #11. & #12 ends?