Proper bracelet for 60s Constellation?

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Looking for info on what the original bracelet would have been on this Constellation with 18mm lugs. Either leather or stainless both acceptable? I prefer stainless, so if anyone can show me what to look for, I would appreciate it.
 
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I'm not sure it would originally have been on a bracelet, but if you like 5-row BOR bracelets, #12 endlinks will probably work.
 
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I'm not sure it would originally have been on a bracelet, but if you like 5-row BOR bracelets, #12 endlinks will probably work.
I mostly agree with Dan, but I would suggest #11 (511) end links because of the curvature.

Omega sells the 3010/511 new for $450 if that's what you choose to do. Otherwise troll eBay and the accessory sales forum here for vintage versions.
 
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I'm not sure it would originally have been on a bracelet, but if you like 5-row BOR bracelets, #12 endlinks will probably work.

Don’t know about #12s, but #11s should work, too.

@Jeff2855 The case looks to me like it was made in the 50s. Are you also looking for information on the Connie, or are you happy with it and just looking for the bracelet to match?
 
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Info on the watch is appreciated too. Recently had some bridge work by a well-respected horologist. He verified it's authenticity. But I'd love to hear anything more about it.
 
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MtV MtV
Don’t know about #12s, but #11s should work, too.

@Jeff2855 The case looks to me like it was made in the 50s. Are you also looking for information on the Connie, or are you happy with it and just looking for the bracelet to match?
Since you opened the door, I’m going to walk in.

There are some major issues with the OP’s watch.

1. The medallion on this case is not original. An original would not have brickwork on the Observatory. That one could be from a later “C” case.

2. IMO, the dial has been repainted. The “tell” for me is location of “Swiss Made”. It is just incorrect. There are some other concerns as well.

Anyway, my point is that if you want a full original piece and can return the watch, you should. If you don’t mind the issues and want to keep it, that’s OK, but I would not recommend putting more money into a rather expensive bracelet.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa
 
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Since you opened the door, I’m going to walk in.

There are some major issues with the OP’s watch.

1. The medallion on this case is not original. An original would not have brickwork on the Observatory. That one could be from a later “C” case.

2. IMO, the dial has been repainted. The “tell” for me is location of “Swiss Made”. It is just incorrect. There are some other concerns as well.

Anyway, my point is that if you want a full original and can return the watch, you should. If you don’t mind the issues and want to keep it, that’s OK, but I would not recommend putting more money into a rather expensive bracelet.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa

I definitely agree about the redial, and the watch does have condition issues. I just didn't know the history of the watch, i.e. if it was a family piece for example.
 
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I appreciate the comments and information. Watch criticism doesn't offend me. I have very little money in it and the watch has zero sentimental value.
 
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I appreciate the comments and information. Watch criticism doesn't offend me. I have very little money in it and the watch has zero sentimental value.
That's good to hear. Sometimes we see certain watches that are not completely authentic and we wonder if we should tell. But if somebody does'nt ask about authenticity maybe it's best not to mention something about it.
 
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That's good to hear. Sometimes we see certain watches that are not completely authentic and we wonder if we should tell. But if somebody does'nt ask about authenticity maybe it's best not to mention something about it.

Yup, hence my question. But I felt with the number of issues I should at least ask.
 
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Is this also an example of where the seconds hand has been shortened?

Coming back to the other question about the bracelet - the 5 row BoR will look amazing on it!
 
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Sometimes it's best not to know...
I disagree. Especially when the question being asked is about making a substantial addition to the watch.
gatorcpa
 
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I also have some Omegas that I am fairly certain are fakes but older and should generate some good discussion. Where should I post those within this site?
 
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I mostly agree with Dan, but I would suggest #11 (511) end links because of the curvature.

Omega sells the 3010/511 new for $450 if that's what you choose to do. Otherwise troll eBay and the accessory sales forum here for vintage versions.

What is the difference between #11. & #12 ends?
 
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What is the difference between #11. & #12 ends?
Short anwer, 511 (formerly 11) are curved and 512 (formerly 12) are flat. This is looking from the side.