Polishing the crystal - go at it again?

[AlanTheBeast]

Before:

I did an abrasive pass with 600 and then 2000 grit paper. Took out most scratches but some are too deep. Also not sure how to do the curved bits at edges. Probably leave that.

There was still a slight haze from the 2000 pass - it comes pretty clean with a drop of water and cotton buffing, but it's not 100%.

Then I hit with toothpaste and buffed.

Still seems to have a very light haze so hit it with the 2000 again and alcohol.

Still hazy. (oh so very little).

So hit it with "Silvo" and a cotton cloth.

World of difference. There are scratches remaining. Should I restart at 600?

 

[ATracyWatches]

Buy Polywatch. Much better results.

 

[AlanTheBeast]

ATracyWatches

Buy Polywatch. Much better results.

I might do that - I have an order to do for other stuff at Azo soon anyway....

 

[Archer]

Like any polishing operation, you have to remove the scratches completely and get a uniform surface before moving on to the next finer grit. Looks like you didn't do that when you started with the 600, so subsequent finer grits are going to leave those marks behind.

 

[JwRosenthal]

Polywatch won’t take out deep scratches on its own with a cotton ball. But do the wet sand and finish with polywatch and there ya go

 

[ATracyWatches]

JwRosenthal

Polywatch won’t take out deep scratches on its own with a cotton ball. But do the wet sand and finish with polywatch and there ya go

You’d be surprised what polywatch can do with a bit of elbow grease.

 

[JwRosenthal]

ATracyWatches

You’d be surprised what polywatch can do with a bit of elbow grease.

I must not have the technique down as I’ve tried at it until my shoulder hurt and still couldn’t knock down what a 3-4 step wet sand could do in under 5 minutes

 

[AlanTheBeast]

Archer

Like any polishing operation, you have to remove the scratches completely and get a uniform surface before moving on to the next finer grit. Looks like you didn't do that when you started with the 600, so subsequent finer grits are going to leave those marks behind.

Then I'll try another pass at 600. When it's all hazed up it's hard to tell if the scratches are gone. But I'll wipe with water or alcohol and see what's there before the 2000 pass. Thanks. I'll probably order the Polywatch next time I have an order into Amazon - which prob'y won't be long ...

(Fun fact: Amazon sell Watch repair kits for $26.99. Surely that's all I need to crack open this guy, overhaul it and have it run within 3 seconds per year for the next 25 years).

 

[JwRosenthal]

ATracyWatches

You’d be surprised what polywatch can do with a bit of elbow grease.

And I’m not trying to be contrarian- what are you using as an applicator and what’s your technique as I really can’t get a scratch free surface with poly. It will shine it up and take out the fine scratches, but just rounds over the edges of deeper scratches

 

[ATracyWatches]

JwRosenthal

And I’m not trying to be contrarian- what are you using as an applicator and what’s your technique as I really can’t get a scratch free surface with poly. It will shine it up and take out the fine scratches, but just rounds over the edges of deeper scratches

I use a paper towel and good pressure. To be honest, I don’t usually try to get out very deep scratches, I’d just put a new plexi in. But the plexi above I would think polywatch would be fine, I don’t see very deep scratches.

 

[AlanTheBeast]

So another 600 pass, a little 'firmer' (60° cross hatches x 3; repeat); cleaned off with alcohol and could no longer see scratches.
A longer session with 2000, (60° cross hatches x 3, repeat);
Polished with Silvo and cotton cloth.

To the naked eye all the scratches are gone (except on the curved to the metal part).

Thanks Jw.

@ATracy: there are deeper ones at the 12 position on the curved down to the metal part. I'll live with those for now...

 

[JwRosenthal]

Here’s a nice easy write up on wet sanding by one of our own.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...aper-toothpaste-wet-sanding-pic-heavy.121033/

 

[SkunkPrince]

By now you could have had it replaced.

 

[JwRosenthal]

ATracyWatches

I use a paper towel and good pressure. To be honest, I don’t usually try to get out very deep scratches, I’d just put a new plexi in. But the plexi above I would think polywatch would be fine, I don’t see very deep scratches.

So this is an example that I did with polywatch. It was heavily scratched and very hazy when I got it and I worked at it quite a bit with 2-3 rounds of polywatch.


You can see the sun throwing shadows of the scratches on the dial. If I hit it again with poly, maybe it would knock down another 10-20%, but those deeper ones will only come out by taking the surface material down to the lowest level of the scratch. To make the surface even, you should do it to the whole crystal to not get a wavy surface.
I have had crystals so thin you could see them deflect with just a light push on surface. If they have been polished that far down, then time for a replacement

 

[ATracyWatches]

JwRosenthal

So this is an example that I did with polywatch. It was heavily scratched and very hazy when I got it and I worked at it quite a bit with 2-3 rounds of polywatch.


You can see the sun throwing shadows of the scratches on the dial. If I hit it again with poly, maybe it would knock down another 10-20%, but those deeper ones will only come out by taking the surface material down to the lowest level of the scratch. To make the surface even, you should do it to the whole crystal to not get a wavy surface.
I have had crystals so thin you could see them deflect with just a light push on surface. If they have been polished that far down, then time for a replacement

Absolutely, you need to go at it hard if the scratches are deep and obviously you don’t want a wavy surface. As I said, rarely do I bother with that unless the crystal is very expensive to replace, it’s just not worth my time. All I’m saying is that polywatch will do a very respectable job if you put some elbow grease into it.

 

[Dan S]

Sounds like you took the right approach. The only things I do differently are:

- Mask the bezel with gaffers tape before starting. I put a single piece over the whole watch and then use a sharp blade to cut out a circle exposing the crystal.
- Use intermediate grades of sandpaper between 600 and 2000. Makes for less work IMO.
- Final polish with Novus or Polywatch

Also, you didn't mention whether you were wet- or dry-sanding, and either way is ok, but I like to wet-sand the acrylic. Obviously I'm careful to use very little water, but using damp sandpaper keeps things more consistent, even if it takes a little longer to remove material.

Edited: Feb 5, 2022

 

[Frenchdude87]

Polishing the crystal is one of the only "skill" i have regarding watches, and i've got to say it's very satisfying.

I find the easier technique is indeed wet sand paper. Grit 400, 800, 1200 then 2000 for myself.
Then finish with polywatch.

Simple and easy. Takes about 20mn. It won't get off huge scratches.

 

[Frenchdude87]

Before and After photos (sorry it's actually screenshots from a video I made and sent to a friend)