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Pocket watches - what to buy, where to buy it?

  1. Crunchie Feb 10, 2021

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    I’ve seen the new Omega pocket watch on the main forum and it makes me think I quite gancy a nice pocket watch, budget probably a few hundred or so.
    I have no idea where to start looking on the internet, but I’d prefer a dealer rather than an auction site, and UK would be best, I think.
    I like the look of an open face or full hunter, nothing complicated, and would love some thoughts or opinions on what to look for.
    I do remember a nice Oris reissue about ten years ago, but all the others available new seem to be horrible cheap rubbish, so I guess vintage is the way to go.
    Thanks in advance...
     
  2. tyrantlizardrex Feb 10, 2021

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    eBay is probably the best place to start looking @Crunchie - pop in a few parameters (I’d start with case material, location, brand and max price), see what comes up that you like the look of, and go from there.

    Swiss made pocket watches, 1900 onwards, from the likes of Omega tend to be relatively inexpensive, simple for a competent watchmaker to work on, and well made - what you’re going to be looking for is a design you like, in a condition you’re happy with.

    I don’t think paying a 30-50% dealer markup would be a winning strategy.

    Here’s my 1901 Omega/Labrador, dragged from the depths non running for under £100, and recently restored by Seth Kennedy for considerably more!

    Photos are before Seth got his hands on it.

    unnamed (7).jpg unnamed (6).jpg unnamed (5).jpg unnamed (4).jpg unnamed (3).jpg unnamed (2).jpg
     
    Edited Feb 10, 2021
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  3. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Feb 10, 2021

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    I agree, eBay is your best place to get a feel for what is available and if you don't buy there, you at least have an idea of value etc.

    I would suggest looking for a recent Geneve pocket watch as you will get a real Omega movement with shock protection (important if you are goig to wear it in real life).

    There was an example recently from a poster in Sweden and I think that would be your target for now. I'll see if I can find it.

    In time, and with experience and more money, you can graduate into true vintage if you choose.
     
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  4. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Feb 10, 2021

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  5. Crunchie Feb 10, 2021

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    Thank you for the replies.

    Do any half-decent online dealers exist so I can get a feel for what is out there, even if I end up buying on eBay? I guess I’m looking for the pocket watch equivalent of somewhere like Watchfinder.

    Besides Omega, what brands should I look for that have a bit of history and quality? I’m way out of my depth here, and don’t want to spend hours chasing crap.

    Anything to avoid?

    And of course, anybody got any nice watches to show off, for sale or not?
     
  6. Pvt-Public Feb 10, 2021

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  7. Dan S Feb 10, 2021

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    Unfortunately, this is like asking "What wristwatch should I buy?" Too open-ended. Maybe even harder to answer, given how long PWs were made and in how many different countries. I think you might want to decide what appeals to you from a historical perspective first, then do your research or ask your questions. If you are buying a turn of the century or later watch, then you might want to stick with fully jeweled movements. Other than that, your choices are endless.

    Many of the usual Swiss companies made fine PWs (Omega, Longines, IWC, etc.). Patek and Vacheron PWs are special, of course, but not in your budget. However, generally speaking, Swiss manufacturers were not dominant or superior in the PW era, so you will find equally good (or better) watches that were made in other countries. In particular, very large numbers of high quality PWs were made by various US manufacturers (Illinois, Elgin, Hamilton, etc.). They often featured highly finished movements, which some people appreciate.
     
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  8. tyrantlizardrex Feb 10, 2021

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    You're in a niche, and somewhat unloved area of horology, as at the moment, pocket watches are (thankfully) not considered cool by those that manipulate markets.

    There are a few specialist dealers in pocket watches, but they tend to be the folks you go to if you have £5k upwards to spend on something of historical or horological importance.


    If you're looking to scratch an itch, don't want to spend too much cash, and don't 100% know what you're looking for/at, and you're in the EU - I'd stick with Omega/Tissot/Longines - they all made good quality watches, and they made a lot of them.

    Start simple. Dip a toe. See if you like it.

    Don't buy obscure brands, and careful of pocket watches made after 1960ish as at that point you're into either niche but good quality stuff from known brands, or utter junk.
     
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  9. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Feb 10, 2021

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    Few years ago in a Naples Fla flea market I could have purchased a freezer bag full of PW for 75 usd. Then you have the fine, highly decorated American watches that sell for thousands. I remember a Pawn Stars episode where American watches carried more collector value than Swiss.
     
    Edited Feb 10, 2021
  10. DaveK Yoda of Yodelers Feb 10, 2021

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    I haven’t seen dealer prices for PWs that weren’t super expensive, and I have no idea where you’d start in the UK (I’m in Canada).

    Like was said above, you have a fun journey ahead narrowing down what you want: a new one, a Swiss one, an American one, a smaller size 12 gents watch, a larger size 16 working man’s watch, a railroad approved watch, a gold-filled case, silver case, white gold-filled case, gunmetal case, fancy case, an engraved case, which style of dial....

    Feel encouraged to post you researched pre-purchase options here for evaluation
     
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  11. Oku Feb 10, 2021

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    I like to add:
    Do you want a branded dial?
    Shall the brand be famous?
    Shall the brand be active?
    Roman or arabic numerals?
     
  12. tyrantlizardrex Feb 10, 2021

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    Here's something fun and currently cheap... mid century Seiko Pocket WatchPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network... be the envy of all your friends?

    s-l1600.jpg s-l1600 (1).jpg
     
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  13. tyrantlizardrex Feb 10, 2021

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    As an on topic aside - it's not a great time to be fishing the regular pools here in the UK.

    Over the last 12 months supply of interesting things (at prices sensible or not) has been somewhat thin.

    A good time to work out what you want, put aside a little cash to buy it, and then wait patiently for it to appear.
     
  14. Crunchie Feb 10, 2021

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    I’m on nights for most of this month, so I’ll spend some time looking at what’s out there and doing a bit of reading and research, but any more tips, pictures, or recommendations are very welcome.

    Am I the only one that remembers the fairly recent Oris pocket watch? I do wish I’d bought one new at the time.
     
  15. SkunkPrince Feb 10, 2021

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    Hamilton 992B. Affordable, fantastic watch. Choice of cases. If you get the right watchmaker, better than COSC specs.
     
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  16. Canuck Feb 10, 2021

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    +1. What you really need to do is to peruse collector’s guides. The choice is huge, and it is not possible for us to tell you what you should collect. Or where to find them. Once you learn enough to develop a preference, and learn how to judge quality, then you can avoid all the usual places that newbie collectors congregate, and where prices tend to be higher. Personally, my focus is American made railroad grade pocket watches. Though I do have a few Swiss made ones. Have business cards made up that you collect watches, and at every opportunity, give them out. When you do that, watches find you!
     
    Edited Feb 10, 2021
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  17. Crunchie Feb 10, 2021

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    Is that a model of watch or a movement?

    My research so far is at the mercy of badly written eBay adverts...
     
  18. Canuck Feb 10, 2021

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    The 992B was made by the Hamilton Watch Co. in Lancaster, PA, from 1941 until the late 1960 s. The produced over 550,000 of them. They come in many different cases, but the movements are al 992Bs.

    FCFB97EA-3427-4A08-9401-C2009AD2689B.jpeg 80EB0D1D-2380-448B-AD4E-5E1BE3756ECE.jpeg
     
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  19. SkunkPrince Feb 10, 2021

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  20. Dan S Feb 10, 2021

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    No, it's the movement.