Please help: The quest to my perfect small seconds / three-hander dress watch

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You might also consider the JLC 145.8.89 dress watch, which is 34mm.
Hey David. Is that Master Classic yours? If so, do you know when it was made? I've been trying to figure out when JLC was putting T's on their tritium dials.
 
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Guys, I'm still searching (and saving money ;-)). The SIHH 2015 update for the Portugieser left me cold.

Today I discovered something that could be IT, two things I am not 1000% sure about: the caliber (a bit too tradiotional maybe?) and that it is a Tutima ;-)


What do you think?

Gosh, a resurrection of a 1 year old thread. I admire your patience, @billyblue

Agree with @Modest_Proposal , the crown guards on that Tutima look weird. Would definitely pass on that one.

+1 for the Lange suggestion, and you may want to read a member's review of their Saxonia. Also, as @SpikiSpikester mentioned, there's a whole range of 3-hander JLCs to pick from, some new, some dating from 3-10 years ago, that are worth exploring.
Edited:
 
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Hey David. Is that Master Classic yours? If so, do you know when it was made? I've been trying to figure out when JLC was putting T's on their tritium dials.

The 145.8.89 was produced in the mid 90's, as I've been lead to believe. Not sure how long the production run was - but the 145.8.89 is not super common.
 
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Gosh, a resurrection of a 1 year old thread. I admire your patience, @billyblue
And still thank you for your support guys!! I don't mind if it takes another 5 years, it will be my first all gold watch. I've been a flipper in the past, with such a watch I have to get it right, otherwise the loss will be tremendous. Did very good in the past with flipping steel watches through forums and internationally +-0.
 
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After over 4 decades of primarily owning gold dress watches I have spent the last decade looking at - wearing SS watches.
My experience has shown that the market has decidedly switched to SS and primarily chronos and sport watches.
Thus, if I were looking for one watch to wear with jeans or a tux it would be an original AP RO 15202. Just my 2cs.
 
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This is also nice, but it's Lange territory without being a Lange...

ATUM_RG.jpg
 
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The 145.8.89 was produced in the mid 90's, as I've been lead to believe. Not sure how long the production run was - but the 145.8.89 is not super common.
Yeah. Wristwatch Annual 1999 still has the Classic included (described with tritium dots and hands but pictured without T's). The 2000/2001 JLC Catalog and price list dated 1999 doesn't have it, replaced by the Ultra Thin. (And no T's on the MGT). So that must be close the date of its demise. My Grande Taille, purchased new late 2000, has a "T Swiss Made T" dial but I'm assuming it was produced earlier. Many pictures of these are tritium but without T's. So I've been trying to figure out when (or maybe where) these guys had T dials.

Anyway, probably deserves a separate discussion.

Cheers
 
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Thus, if I were looking for one watch to wear with jeans or a tux it would be an original AP RO 15202. Just my 2cs.
Sorry, but it has to be gold. I'd love to own one of these, but it isn't a dress watch

Audemars-Piguet-Royal-Oak.jpg
Neither is this

jlB1emU.jpg
 
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To throw my two cents at the original subject, the 1815 would be my choice. I've always admired those. I need a gold dress watch, though, like once a decade. So I've stuck with JLC in steel (new) and gold (vintage) for my dressier options.
 
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As always it's a matter of opinion. That why there's 64 colors in a box of crayons 😀
Audemars-Piguet-Royal-Oak-Jumbo-2012.jpg
 
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That extra thin is mighty nice I agree. But I'm really looking for something more "traditional". And I prefer the 15400 because I'd like to have a seconds hand moving on a mechanical watch.

Why didn't they even bother to use golden screws in the RO bezel? Is it for water resistance?
 
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Look wise the Saxonia beats the 1815 in my book. Again I don't like numerals on the dial...

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Got no idea why the screws. However if it's a Lange: This was my favorite 😀
 
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Why didn't they even bother to use golden screws in the RO bezel? Is it for water resistance?

The hexagonal screws on the bezel of the RO are made of gold, albeit white gold. They yellow slightly over time, as you can see here, which adds a bit of contrast to the brushed steel bezel.

+1 for Miki's suggestion of a RO. You'd be surprised how dressy the RO is, really.
 
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The hexagonal screws on the bezel of the RO are made of gold, albeit white gold. They yellow slightly over time, as you can see here, which adds a bit of contrast to the brushed steel bezel.

+1 for Miki's suggestion of a RO. You'd be surprised how dressy the RO is, really.

Just an FYI - on the bezel they are nuts, not screws. It's more of a nut/bolt arrangement than a screw system.
 
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Just an FYI - on the bezel they are nuts, not screws. It's more of a nut/bolt arrangement than a screw system.
Ha, knew that 😀 Didn't know that they are made of white gold though...love this hobby. But then it is still a mistery to me why not use yellow gold on yellow gold...
 
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As always it's a matter of opinion. That why there's 64 colors in a box of crayons 😀

Actually, he's right and it's really not an opinion. Both AP and Patek list those models sport watches.
 
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Actually, he's right and it's really not an opinion. Both AP and Patek list those models sport watches.
Even a blind "squirrel" finds an acorn 😀
 
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I'll cast my vote for the Tutima Patria. Note that it's also available in a dual time zone version (both versions are available with either arabic or stick markers).

PatriaDualTimeArabic_zpsfvoo3giq.jpg

The movement is in-house as well, and is done in the classic Glashütte tradition, with nice finishing and unique features.

patria-6600-01-b-1600x740_zpsr0qsjumg.jpg