Dear all,

let me start this way: Some weeks ago I had the chance to wear my grail watch for some minutes, which is this:

Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor

(image taken from Laurent Ferrier)

What I like specifically on this watch:
- overall "rounded" case form
- the hands!
- index instead of numbers
- recessed small seconds dial (gives the dial some depth)
- matching gold hands to gold case
- 40mm size
- the round gold dots around the dial
- see-through caseback with gorgeous movement

Some time ago I saw Tony C. posting this one here...


(image taken from Tony C.)

...and I thought WOW, this is it. There's even one listing on eBay US, BUT I am not a vintage guy and for me buying vintage is a too high risk. Sadly all current offerings from AP in their Jules Audemars line-up are too amgular / edged...

Then I almost bought into this...


(image taken from eBay)

...but again it was vintage and I didn't really like the hands.

So I am still looking for coming close to my grail.

Only "modern" watch I can find that matches very close is the portuguese line-up from IWC some time ago (sadly all discontinued models):



Above one has perfect hands, but numbers instead of indices and is is pretty huge. As it was limited to boutiques it doesn't make aquiring one now easier.

The unlimited ref. 5454xx would be:



Thoughts: Too big for a classic dress watch and too expensive for a Unitas movement. And gold hands with steel case is also a no-go.

I know that any Patek Calatrava comes close but then I could also buy the grail directly for that price...it has to be cheaper for now.

Any help is highly appreciated towards finding my classic dress watch.

Many thanks!!!

 

You might consider IWC's reference 3531 line. They are reduced in size, at 35mm (a proper dress size) and come in several variations.

Better still, they come equipped with Jeager Lecoultre's excellent and beautiful automatic movement.

They no longer sell new - and it might take a bit of time to find the one you want, but they're not exactly rare.

 

So many choices even in your narrowly defined universe.

Dennis ( ulackfocus ) recently sold a VC which I feel is as close to perfect as you can find with a SG (3) hand dresser.

What about a Patrimony? I can spot one from across any room yet it's deliciously understated. And, if you find watch hands are as important as you claim, why not Breguet??

Regular + small seconds...

 

Lots of great suggestions already, there are many choices for you to consider. Here's another...

 

Hey guys, I like it! Thank you very much.

From IWC ref. 3531 (which I didn't know existed) I'd prefer the left one...


(picture taken from IWC Forum)

...as of one of my rules above "gold hands only go with gold cases". This reference instantly eliminates the over-dimensional 5454.

Still not the ONE but close (numbers on dial...).

Please keep it under 10.000 €, those Patrimonys and Breguets are nice, but then I'd buy a used Calatrava instead ;-)

So far we have:

- IWC ref. 3531-001 (rosegold, see above left)
- JLC Master Grande Ultra Thin ref. 1352420 (redgold, see bottom)


(picture taken from aBlogToWatch)

If the JLC had nicer hands (read: more shaped like the IWC) it would be the ONE.

 

+1 on the VC. A VC is not necessarily out of reach. The older 36mm Grande Malte Classique (Dennis recently sold one in YG), with cal 1400, is a beautiful 3-hander, with a delightful barleycorn guilloche pattern. Well under 10k EUR, pre-owned. I've shown the WG version here.


Nice display back too.

 

Hard to beat the original Lange 1815...

 

You see the IWC from eBay I posted? That one was in Germany (where I am) and went for just over 2,000 €. I deeply regret not going all in on it. To my knowledge it had calibre 89x and it was in very very good condition. But I scanned all available catalogues from 1965 - 1980 and couldn't find the exact watch and reference. Also Tony C. wasn't sure.

 

I'm very picky on this one...


(picture taken from orologi.forumfree.it)

...for a dress watch and to my eyes the dial is way to busy. Same is it with me and all the Guilloche dials (e.g. Breguet).

 

Lange & Söhne revamps their Saxonia line-up at SIHH 2015. All very very nice but also pricey ;-)

 

Also a no-go are railroad tracks around the dial (which all VC watches with seconds indication have), diamonds and drilled lugs.

Any other additional complications than seconds indication has to be done in perfection to make it okay. E.g. a date window with the date not matching the dial colour is out. The not matching date window sadly eliminates the new OMEGA Tresor. If this would have a matching date window I would be all over it...


(picture taken from ... see picture)

 

You might also consider the JLC 145.8.89 dress watch, which is 34mm.

 

If you can find one, the AP 15056OR.OO.A067CR.02 caliber 3090 is a nice option:

 

Actually I found this:

https://www.chrono24.de/audemarspig...id2908278.htm?id=2908278&picnum=5&tab=details

What do you think?

 

Look what IWC has just done to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Revolution Magazine:


(picture taken from watchesbysjx.com)

Fantastic in 42mm, even with new movement. ONLY 10 PIECES MADE...so not for me I'm afraid.

But I am sure now that I have to wait until SIHH 2015 to see what IWC has in store for the portuguese line-up.

 

Guys, I'm still searching (and saving money ;-)). The SIHH 2015 update for the Portugieser left me cold.

Today I discovered something that could be IT, two things I am not 1000% sure about: the caliber (a bit too tradiotional maybe?) and that it is a Tutima ;-)


What do you think?

 

Although that seems like a fine watch, I looked at the price range and thought: If I was going to spend that kind of money for a watch with that style, I would no question go for a Lange and Sohne.

I'm not a fan of the wristguard on the Tutima. It's a dress watch and I usually associate those with sporty watches. Also, 42mm is very large for a dress watch and especially a simple three hander. It'll look huge, FYI.

Lange and Sohne watches are classically sized, ranging from 34mm - 38mm - beyond. If you look at wrist shots, I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed at their wrist presence. Their dial designs also appear more balanced IMO. There has been a lot of praise over their movements, which are inhouse and very well finished. The balance cocks are also, you will notice, hand engraved. Really - I think you should look at their many designs and sizes. They sell, I believe, for about as much as the Tutima on the used market, unless somebody corrects me. Ebay is a good place to check sales history.

Lange and Sohne is well respected and considered on level with Vacheron, Piguet, and Patek.

 

while we are in Glashütte:





sun and stars ... (gold chantons) ... and hand engraved balance-bridge "Made with love in Glashütte"


very sexy ... and Nomos is def. on its way up ...