"Pepsi" question

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Hi, guys! Can anybody tell if that's an original bezel insert to this watch? Serial # 94*****
As I'm considering buying it, is ther any other "red flag"?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Because it has less sugar, or you just prefere the taste of Coke? 馃槈

Coke is way much better than Pepsi!
馃榿::stirthepot::
 
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You don't even know the reference and you are asking us for an appraisal. Do some 馃摉.
 
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Whats the reference?
Whats the price?
 
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I feel like I am seeing some scratches on the crystal, in which case it is probably a 16750.
 
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I believe it is 16750, I didn't pay attention but with acrylic crytal it should be, and as serial # is 9 mil. (as I noted) the production year should be 1987 and the next generation 16700 came out on next year i.e. 1988 ... I might be wrong, as I'm obviously not educated as many of you guys. Sorry for that, I know I'm out of your league, that's why I'm asking questions here. Anyway, even it would bi nice to hear the value of the watch from you (yes, please) initially I wasn't looking for apraisal but opinion on autenticity od the visible watch parts which should eventually detere me from buying it. Anyway, the real probem is - I'm deciding between this one and GMT II 1989 two tone with black bezel insert and jubilee bracelet. The price is the exactly the same, my personal preferences are equaly divided between two and, unfortunately, I can't afford both... Decisions, decisions...



I feel like I am seeing some scratches on the crystal, in which case it is probably a 16750.
Edited:
 
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I feel like I am seeing some scratches on the crystal, in which case it is probably a 16750.

You're right, it must be 16750 as It's acrylic and the production year is 1987.
 
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You're right, it must be 16750 as It's acrylic and the production year is 1987.
Please slow down and do your homework. If you needed the minimal input you just got to make an educated guess at the ref. , you are far from making a well informed purchase. What kind of seller is this?
 
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Please slow down and do your homework. If you needed the minimal input you just got to make an educated guess at the ref. , you are far from making a well informed purchase. What kind of seller is this?

watch dealer in a brick and mortar store, who's ready to "guarantee for the watch" - whatever it means in a real world... I would not buy from some random guy on a street.
 
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watch dealer in a brick and mortar store, who's ready to "guarantee for the watch" - whatever it means in a real world... I would not buy from some random guy on a street.
Who does not know the reference???????? I don鈥檛 mean to beat you up, Its just that many of us, myself included, have allowed ourselves to make impulse buys of shiny objects early on. You might get lucky, you might get burned. From a dealer you will pay a premium for the experience. At least you had the sense to post a query.
 
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Who does not know the reference???????? I don鈥檛 mean to beat you up, Its just that many of us, myself included, have allowed ourselves to make impulse buys of shiny objects early on. You might get lucky, you might get burned. From a dealer you will pay a premium for the experience. At least you had the sense to post a query.

He does, I don"t because I was ignorant enough not to ask thinking that "educated guess" would be enough. If I understand you correctly, Rolex was making different references of the GMT in 1987 - because that's the production year according to the case #. That would be something I really didn't know, thank you.
 
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The production year is just an estimate, so mentioning "1987" is not really useful. The only things you can know with certainty are the serial number and the reference number, because they are on the case, engraved between the lugs. TBH, it would be helpful to either do some basic research or if you are serious about getting feedback at least show more and better photos from all angles, including between the lugs, inside the case-back, etc.
 
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He does, I don"t because I was ignorant enough not to ask thinking that "educated guess" would be enough. If I understand you correctly, Rolex was making different references of the GMT in 1987 - because that's the production year according to the case #. That would be something I really didn't know, thank you.
Knowing the s/n and the reference matters because bezels (inserts), dials, hands sometimes caliber can change even within a reference depending on SN. Then there is condition to be concerned about.
 
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The production year is just an estimate, so mentioning "1987" is not really useful. The only things you can know with certainty are the serial number and the reference number, because they are on the case, engraved between the lugs. TBH, it would be helpful to either do some basic research or if you are serious about getting feedback at least show more and better photos from all angles, including between the lugs, inside the case-back, etc.

Sorry, my bad. I had an opportuniuty to do that but I wasn't aware how important it all can be.
 
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Knowing the s/n and the reference matters because bezels (inserts), dials, hands sometimes caliber can change even within a reference depending on SN. Then there is condition to be concerned about.

Well, I didn't know that. I was just expecting to hear if there's some obvious red flag.
Now feel like I'm slowely traveling in a world on the other side of a mirror...
 
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Well, I didn't know that. I was just expecting to hear if there's some obvious red flag.
Now feel like I'm slowely traveling in a world on the other side of a mirror...

It鈥檚 a lot to process. Take your time. The turning market is on your side. I鈥檓 dabbling into vintage Rolex atm and it鈥檚 a brand new world. Scary, most days.

The market continues to decline, our valuation is as good as EBay/Chrono24鈥ut, we can tell you if asking price is fair or not, if you disclose it.

From photos above, watch is rather nice. I would buy it at $5-7k USD. I鈥檇 think about it at 7-9k. I鈥檒l pass above 9k. 鈥攁ssuming the watch is authentic and fully checked out. Good luck.
 
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Well, I didn't know that. I was just expecting to hear if there's some obvious red flag.
Now feel like I'm slowely traveling in a world on the other side of a mirror...
Correctness and condition are critical. It's no different than evaluating a collectible anything. With any HYPED/OVERHEATED (now cooling) brand like Rolex, one must be extra careful. There was all sorts of BS going on including case cutting. The Chinese fakes have been getting better and better as well. Get the pics and we shall see.
 
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Correctness and condition are critical. It's no different than evaluating a collectible anything. With any HYPED/OVERHEATED (now cooling) brand like Rolex, one must be extra careful. There was all sorts of BS going on including case cutting. The Chinese fakes have been getting better and better as well. Get the pics and we shall see.

Thank you for your help. Really. So, complete change of subject. I went to see the dealer again and to take some better pics, but I've decided to go with the other one rather than pepsi. So I asked to take pics, and I'd like yopur honest opinion. What I was confused is the reference number 16710 which, as far as I know, should be all SS watch... but again, I might be wrong about it.

 
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It鈥檚 a lot to process. Take your time. The turning market is on your side. I鈥檓 dabbling into vintage Rolex atm and it鈥檚 a brand new world. Scary, most days.

The market continues to decline, our valuation is as good as EBay/Chrono24鈥ut, we can tell you if asking price is fair or not, if you disclose it.

From photos above, watch is rather nice. I would buy it at $5-7k USD. I鈥檇 think about it at 7-9k. I鈥檒l pass above 9k. 鈥攁ssuming the watch is authentic and fully checked out. Good luck.

It's more than 9k so I gave up... but I went back and took pics of the other one I was considering. Any thoughts? Could ref# 16710 be correct for this watch?