Omega white gold content

Annapolis · Mar 30, 2023

Curious to know about the material composition history of Omega's white gold.

I'm aware that Omega introduced Canopus Gold in 2015, which is a whiter/brighter 18k alloy of gold, platinum, rhodium and palladium, and that, like Rolex's in-house-foundry white gold, it's true "gray gold" all the way through, rather than rhodium-plated.

I'm wondering about the history prior to that. Before 2015, was all Omega 18k white gold rhodium-plated? Or was there a "gray gold" alloy that predated Canopus?

As ever, grateful for any knowledge folks have to share.

padders · Mar 30, 2023

I can't specifically comment on Omega's use of white gold as the only Omega I have with any WG is my non-AC and that uses Rhodium plating over a std 18K gold alloy for the bezel insert. However I have considerable experience of alloy makeup in general.

White 18K gold with a high (12-13%) proportion of palladium is truly white throughout but is not all that novel. Cartier, JLC, Patek, Rolex? etc have been using it for years. It not more widely seen because it is a lot more expensive to use than Rh plated Gold-Silver-Copper alloys which are not as white when the Rh layer wears but are a lot cheaper. There is sometimes a small percentage of something exotic used in these high Pd % gold alloys, I have seen Iridium and Ruthenium returns of 1-2% in XRF tester returns. Curiously you don't often see platinum in gold alloys so maybe that doesn't actually offer much improvement in whiteness or lustre vs palladium which clearly does.

Having just quickly checked the Fratello article on the recent Omega alloys, it seem Canopus uses as much as 20% palladium but also has Rh, perhaps as a surface coating so could be considered a bit of a cheat really since it combines both techniques of coating and alloying for whiteness. Or is the best of both worlds depending on your view.

Here is the article:
https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-g...oys-moonshine-sedna-canopus-bronze-gold/#gref

Annapolis · Mar 30, 2023

Fascinating.

I’m betting my white gold AT (c. 2010s but prior to Canopus) is Rh plated and not gray all the way, but perhaps not… I don’t plan to scratch it to find out.

Hzgm · Mar 30, 2023

Omega was using palladium WG alloys long before 2015.

There might have been rhodium plated models made at some point but these are not the norm. You can look up WG Speedmasters for examples going back to the early 80s, none of which are rhodium plated. Going further back to the very rare WG models such as early constellation of the 50s, these were also not rhodium plated. Some might have been nickel WG alloys and not palladium WG but given that cases were made by specialist case manufacturers often also working for other brands such as Patek, VC, AP or Rolex, they all probably used very similar WG alloys around the same time.

If I was to guess I would say that the rhodium listed in canopus gold is not surface coating but has some desired alloying properties and also allows Omega to market it as “100% noble metal”. See official website screenshots below.

padders · Mar 30, 2023

As. I said above, it is a fact omega have used Rh plating so that is not in doubt. The Rh component of Canopus I agree is not necessarily a coating, but if not why use it? It’s more expensive than palladium and is not usually used in gold alloys as a mixed component. By anyone in fact though I accept it could used be for differentiation or trademark reasons.

How do you know the models you speak of are not Rh plated?

Japanred · Mar 30, 2023

Without wanting to hijack the thread, this would be a good opportunity for those of you lucky enough to own white gold watches to sneak the odd picture in 😀

Annapolis · Mar 30, 2023

Asked and answered.

Hzgm · Mar 30, 2023

padders
The Rh component of Canopus I agree is not necessarily a coating, but if not why use it? It’s more expensive than palladium and is not usually used in gold alloys as a mixed component. By anyone in fact though I accept it could be for differentiation reasons.

I think that s exactly it, differentiation for their “100% noble” proprietary 18k alloy, given their markup on canopus pieces using 1-4% rhodium instead of palladium is not going to move the needle on their margin.

On rhodium plating, it is of course used for hands and indices and it also makes sense color wise to use rhodium plating for a WG bezel on an otherwise steel watch.

rhodium plating for full white gold Omega watches, maybe in the 70s but certainly not on anything in the last 30yrs though?

OP, rest assured that your WG AT is not rhodium plated, it’s a palladium WG alloy.

Annapolis · Mar 30, 2023

Awesome—appreciate these insights!

Was more curiosity than worry, though I admit I’d have been less excited to find out it were plated.

Hzgm · Mar 30, 2023

For those with an interest in gold alloys, the below is from a 1999 document titled “gold in watchmaking”

The buyer of an 18 ct yellow gold watch has a choice of half a dozen colours plus another good half dozen for white gold. There are distinct national preferences: German 18 ct gold is bright yellow (‘2N’) and contains 10% copper and 15% silver, while the Swiss variety is a darker yellow (‘3N’) and contains 12% copper and 13% silver. The latter colour is preferred in combination with steel for ‘bicolore’ cases and bracelets. Rosé gold (‘4N’) contains 16% copper and 9% silver, while red gold (‘5N’) contains 21% copper and only 4% silver. Watchcases are mostly made of the 2N type, as 95% of Swiss made gold watches are exported. However, certain manufacturers insist on rosé or red gold as their ‘trademark’ (4N and 5N colours). The 2N and 3N type alloys are available in fine grained varieties specifically for watchcases, as they are easier to polish to a high gloss; traces of iridium are added for grain growth inhibition.

As far as white gold is concerned, the 18 ct alloy with 16% palladium and 9% silver was quite widespread in the days of cheap palladium. Nickel white gold has totally fallen out of favour because of its allergenic potential. The law requires that no more than 0.5 micrograms of nickel are given off per square centimetre per week; this is easily achieved, but nobody wants to take a chance. White gold is presently very much in fashion, but it is expensive, as the palladium price has enormously increased in the past few years. This is mostly due to the uncertain supply situation (70% of that metal comes from Russia) and steadily increasing demand for automotive catalytic converters. White gold alloys with 12.5% or just 10% palladium (the latter need manganese or iron for strengthening) have been developed to save palladium. Some of the new white gold alloys can be hardened by heat treating, grain growth being inhibited with iridium. Other low palladium white gold alloys which do not need to be rhodium plated were recently introduced.

The alloys Gold 990 (23.76 ct) with 1% titanium and gold 986 (23.66 ct) with 1.4% titanium plus copper, never made the breakthrough that had been hoped for, despite their good mechanical properties and machinability. In the age-hardened condition, they are similar to 18 ct alloys. For one thing, gold 990 and 986 are about 30% more expensive than 18 ct gold, as they contain a lot more precious metal. Also, one must be aware of the fact that any price differential at the level of the case is multiplied eightfold by the time the complete watch makes it into the retail store display. Furthermore, recycling this type of alloy poses problems, both technical and economical, as gold refiners are not used to dealing with titanium. Only the Japanese owned American-Swiss Waltham Watch Company tried gold 990 in watch cases, but only with moderate success; there were no followers.

Bonus pictures so it’s not a just a wall of text! (Not all are mine)

padders · Mar 30, 2023

Hzgm
For those with an interest in gold alloys, the below is from a 1999 document titled “gold in watchmaking”

The buyer of an 18 ct yellow gold watch has a choice of half a dozen colours plus another good half dozen for white gold. There are distinct national preferences: German 18 ct gold is bright yellow (‘2N’) and contains 10% copper and 15% silver, while the Swiss variety is a darker yellow (‘3N’) and contains 12% copper and 13% silver. The latter colour is preferred in combination with steel for ‘bicolore’ cases and bracelets. Rosé gold (‘4N’) contains 16% copper and 9% silver, while red gold (‘5N’) contains 21% copper and only 4% silver. Watchcases are mostly made of the 2N type, as 95% of Swiss made gold watches are exported. However, certain manufacturers insist on rosé or red gold as their ‘trademark’ (4N and 5N colours). The 2N and 3N type alloys are available in fine grained varieties specifically for watchcases, as they are easier to polish to a high gloss; traces of iridium are added for grain growth inhibition.

As far as white gold is concerned, the 18 ct alloy with 16% palladium and 9% silver was quite widespread in the days of cheap palladium. Nickel white gold has totally fallen out of favour because of its allergenic potential. The law requires that no more than 0.5 micrograms of nickel are given off per square centimetre per week; this is easily achieved, but nobody wants to take a chance. White gold is presently very much in fashion, but it is expensive, as the palladium price has enormously increased in the past few years. This is mostly due to the uncertain supply situation (70% of that metal comes from Russia) and steadily increasing demand for automotive catalytic converters. White gold alloys with 12.5% or just 10% palladium (the latter need manganese or iron for strengthening) have been developed to save palladium. Some of the new white gold alloys can be hardened by heat treating, grain growth being inhibited with iridium. Other low palladium white gold alloys which do not need to be rhodium plated were recently introduced.

The alloys Gold 990 (23.76 ct) with 1% titanium and gold 986 (23.66 ct) with 1.4% titanium plus copper, never made the breakthrough that had been hoped for, despite their good mechanical properties and machinability. In the age-hardened condition, they are similar to 18 ct alloys. For one thing, gold 990 and 986 are about 30% more expensive than 18 ct gold, as they contain a lot more precious metal. Also, one must be aware of the fact that any price differential at the level of the case is multiplied eightfold by the time the complete watch makes it into the retail store display. Furthermore, recycling this type of alloy poses problems, both technical and economical, as gold refiners are not used to dealing with titanium. Only the Japanese owned American-Swiss Waltham Watch Company tried gold 990 in watch cases, but only with moderate success; there were no followers.

Bonus pictures so it’s not a just a wall of text! (Not all are mine)

That appears to be an unattributed quote and is persuasive and interesting but as I say, do you have any actual proof? I use an XRF tester day to day so would be happy to verify the exact makeup of any alloy put before me. If you don't mind me saying, you are working on probability based on something you have read which is rather outdated. I've personally tested thousands of watches and other pieces of jewellery. Rh plating is ubiquitous until around 10 years ago when it started to be seen less in high end stuff. For you to suggest that, for instance, all the white gold Speedies are a high Pd alloy without a plate is just a guess is it not?

Hzgm · Mar 31, 2023

padders
That appears to be an unattributed quote and is persuasive and interesting but as I say, do you have any actual proof? I use an XRF tester day to day so would be happy to verify the exact makeup of any alloy put before me. If you don't mind me saying, you are working on probability based on something you have read which is rather outdated. I've personally tested thousands of watches and other pieces of jewellery. Rh plating is ubiquitous until around 10 years ago when it started to be seen less in high end stuff. For you to suggest that, for instance, all the white gold Speedies are a high Pd alloy without a plate is just a guess is it not?

I have a WG speedie and I have handled others but not the 1980 one so we can leave that one as a maybe. Rhodium plating like any plating wears off with friction/scratches leaving the actual alloy underneath exposed with its more yellowish color which clashes with the parts that are still plated. I have both an early pressure style WG deployant buckle that came my WG moonphase (the same buckle was used for the 1994 Apollo XI 25th anniversary WG speedie) and a more recent deployant buckle with side buttons pictured above. I have worn both daily for years. I think you will agree that it would be the first place for rhodium plating to wear off and that it would be impossible to miss.

You can see below the source for the quote above, with the name of the author and the publication it came in.

Rhodium plating is indeed ubiquitous in jewelry, and even often applied to palladium alloy WG jewelry to make it whiter, but have you tested or seen rhodium plating wearing off in a WG cased Omega of the last 30 years?

hen · Mar 31, 2023

Very interesting article, learned a lot. But why use or buy white gold in the first place? Its more expensive and have worse mechanical property's than Stainless steel. Its only the allergenic nickel in SS that makes it inferior to White gold. And the rhodium plated White gold is just like a chromed brass chase; sooner or later the yellow metal will show. So why white gold?

DrmexicoII · Mar 31, 2023

hen
Very interesting article, learned a lot. But why use or buy white gold in the first place? Its more expensive and have worse mechanical property's than Stainless steel. Its only the allergenic nickel in SS that makes it inferior to White gold. And the rhodium plated White gold is just like a chromed brass chase; sooner or later the yellow metal will show. So why white gold?

I'm assuming because it looks like SS but gold is more luxury. Same reason I have a white gold wedding ring - prefer the look of silver but gold is more "valuable" / luxurious. White gold the perfect compromise (if you're happy that it's soft and therefore scratches very easily).

padders · Mar 31, 2023

hen
Very interesting article, learned a lot. But why use or buy white gold in the first place? Its more expensive and have worse mechanical property's than Stainless steel. Its only the allergenic nickel in SS that makes it inferior to White gold. And the rhodium plated White gold is just like a chromed brass chase; sooner or later the yellow metal will show. So why white gold?

WG does look a lot like highly polished steel it is true, but it gives a heft on the wrist that makes the owner know it is there. It is an irrational thing I know. I have a WG Reverso and I adore it, but it basically looks like polished steel.

Hzgm
I have a WG speedie and I have handled others but not the 1980 one so we can leave that one as a maybe. Rhodium plating like any plating wears off with friction/scratches leaving the actual alloy underneath exposed with its more yellowish color which clashes with the parts that are still plated. I have both an early pressure style WG deployant buckle that came my WG moonphase (the same buckle was used for the 1994 Apollo XI 25th anniversary WG speedie) and a more recent deployant buckle with side buttons pictured above. I have worn both daily for years. I think you will agree that it would be the first place for rhodium plating to wear off and that it would be impossible to miss.

You can see below the source for the quote above, with the name of the author and the publication it came in.

Rhodium plating is indeed ubiquitous in jewelry, and even often applied to palladium alloy WG jewelry to make it whiter, but have you tested or seen rhodium plating wearing off in a WG cased Omega of the last 30 years?

Thanks for posting that, interesting. Re the above about testing WG cased Omegas for Rh, you are quite right, I haven't (other than the bezel on the Non-AC as I mentioned, that is plated and does wear to yellow) so can't be sure either way, but my point was that there is no certainty from just handling a piece. Yes Rh plate does wear but it takes a long while so the absence of yellow breakthrough on a piece isn't indicative either way, unless it is deeply gouged. I will concede though, as I think you alluded to, on a very high dollar piece like a WG Speedy, the extra cost of a higher spec alloy is insignificant vs the sticker price, maybe ~3-4% of the RRP at a guess (high Pd 18K gold costs about the same as 24K gold) so it wouldn't make sense to nickel and dime on the metal. I strongly doubt they would use a plated alloy today, but 20-60 years ago? Who knows.

YY77 · Mar 31, 2023

hen
But why use or buy white gold in the first place?

WG had the nicer look IMHO;

edit; the black dialed SS never made it to production.

Annapolis · Mar 31, 2023

hen
why use or buy white gold in the first place?

I can’t speak from the manufacturer’s perspective, but as a buyer/owner, I’d say white gold and platinum are my favorite materials for a watch. (Or wedding band—mine is platinum.)

It’s a totally emotional decision—there’s nothing rational about it. But I’d say that’s generally true of this hobby. Paying $40,000 for a gold watch isn’t rational, but neither is paying $1,500 for a steel one. It’s all self-indulgent, absurd, extravagant, and financially ill-advised. And yet here we are.

I like Aqua Terras and nice watches in general, but I don’t like calling attention to what’s on my wrist: I wear what I like, and far from trying to impress other people, I find it extremely uncomfortable when people notice or comment on my watch. (I wore a Sub for a while but decided to sell it for this reason, even though I really liked it.) I’m very visible in my work—always already the center of attention—and I don’t need the extra, unwanted kind that’ll lead people to make all kinds of stupid assumptions about me.

My AT makes me happy—you can see and feel the quality, it keeps superb time, it’s just a beautiful, well-made thing. And to all eyes it’s a steel watch, and only a true watch aficionado would look twice at it. I wear it every day and not once has anyone else ever commented on it.

It weighs about 2/3rds of a pound (over 270g) and I love that. It has extreme presence, but I’m the only one who knows it. For me, that’s the rationale for white gold.

M'Bob · Mar 31, 2023

White gold indeed hits a sweet-spot between stainless and platinum, especially in a large watch. It’s more up-scale, and quietly more luxurious than steel, but doesn’t over-develop your biceps like a platinum sport watch does.

Annapolis · Mar 31, 2023

…though if I ever get a crack at one of the platinum Seamaster heritage watches (320 grams!) for under $37k, I’ll probably jump at it.

Annapolis · Mar 31, 2023

Also, re: white gold scratching more readily than steel. While I’m sure that’s just chemically/metallurgically true, anecdotally I have not found this to be the case—or to be noticeably or problematically so.

I wear my AT every day—desk-diving, driving, doing stuff inside and outside, banging around washing dishes and carting stuff around. It’s taken it’s share of bumps and scuffs and still looks practically new. A hairline maybe here and there (more likely to show up in a photo than a glance), but definitely not more than any of the steel watches I’ve owned. It helps, I’m sure, that this watch has few polished surfaces.

That said, there are definitely things I wouldn’t do with this watch that I might do with a steel beater, but that’s less about material per se than just financial risk—it’s probably stuff I wouldn’t do with a steel AT either.

Omega white gold content

Annapolis

padders

Annapolis

Hzgm

padders

Japanred

Annapolis

Hzgm

Annapolis

Hzgm

padders

Hzgm

hen

DrmexicoII

padders

YY77

Annapolis

M'Bob

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