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White Gold Aqua Terra 150m 231.50.43.22.01.001

  1. Annapolis Jan 4, 2023

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    EDIT: just (belatedly) realized that this was my 500th post. Cheers!

    I've waited a month to review this watch and have worn it just about every single day since taking delivery. I always want to be sure I'm past the "honeymoon" phase before offering an opinion.

    Let me first credit the sources for my pictures. I'm a pretty serious (even nationally published) photography hobbyist, but my specialty is wildlife. For some reason, when it comes to photographing watches, I suck. I can never nail the focus and the lighting. So the pictures you'll see below come from Omega's own site (and you can also get more data on this reference there too) and from OCWatchGuy: with the latter, you're seeing my exact watch, as that is who I purchased it from. This review is also, tacitly, an endorsement of Nick & Patrick---buy and sell with confidence.

    Some Physical Stats:

    Case Diameter: 43mm
    Case Thickness: 14.6mm
    Lug to Lug: 51mm
    Lug Width: 21mm
    Weight: 270g fully linked


    The Movement:

    Omega Co-Axial 8611, Automatic with an 18k rose gold rotor and bridge and fine finishing
    Complications: Annual calendar (month and date)
    Beat-Rate
    : 7 beats per second; 3.5Hz; 25,200 beats per hour
    Power Reserve: 55 hours (I have not field-tested this)
    Anti-Magnetism: Silicone balance spring; no gauss-rating provided; this is not a Master Chrono


    Additional Objective Notes:

    Depth Rating: 150m/500ft; screw-down crown
    Limited Edition: 61 pieces; the watch can still be purchased direct from Omega's site even though it's a few years old now
    MSRP: $41,900 US
    Dial Description: Black "teak boat deck" pattern, vertically oriented; triangular luminescent hour markers with rose gold surrounds; matching rose gold lumed hands; lume glows bright blue-green; rose-gold-frame month/date windows display white font with black background matching the dial. Applied rose gold Omega logo and name; rest of the dial text is white printing, including the outboard arabic track. Sapphire crystal is slightly domed and anti-reflective on both sides.
    Caseback Description: Transparent sapphire caseback displays the movement; LE number is included on the margin of the window.
    Bracelet Description: White gold "oyster style" 3-link design, fully brushed except for polished flanks, concealed butterfly twin-trigger clasp consistent with the rest of the Aqua Terra line; tapers from 21mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. Modern etched Omega logo on the clasp.


    And now the photo-dump before I offer my subjective review.
     
    AT1.png AT2.png AT3.jpeg AT4.jpeg AT5.jpeg
    Edited Jan 15, 2023
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  2. Annapolis Jan 4, 2023

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    So I feel like any review of this watch has to address its price (nearly $42k US) and its mass (270 grams), as both are extremes.

    It's a lot of money for a watch, but when you consider what, say, full PM Rolexes sell for, it's a decent value proposition in today's market. It's a lot more watch (physically) than any of those, and there are only 60 others like it out there in the entire world. I feel like I paid what it's actually worth to me.

    As to its mass: the watch calls no attention to itself, looking---even at very close range---like nothing more than a stainless steel sports watch: that's how I like it. I wanted a full PM braceleted watch because I like the heft and I'm a materials nerd, but I'm not a bling person at all. This watch satisfies that desire in the most extreme way, at least in my experience. The cognitive dissonance of seeing a 'steel watch' but then lifting it up and feeling the weight of about 2/3rds of a pound of 18k white gold is a sensation that does dissipate after several days but never really goes away, at least not a month in. I did remove one link (about 4 grams, as I recall), but this remains far and away the heaviest watch I've ever worn, by a considerable margin. (It may in fact be among the heaviest watches Omega has ever produced. The new Chrono Chime is far heavier, of course, but that's a half-million dollar piece; maybe the original PloProf? I don't believe anything else in their current catalog is heavier. Did they ever do anything in full platinum?)

    Admittedly, heft is a rather stupid, emotional reason for liking a watch, but I'm not going to lie: it's a very big part of why I enjoy this piece. I have gotten used to it---it doesn't annoy me or constantly remind me of its presence. But I also always know it's there. This is not a watch for someone who wants one that disappears on the wrist.

    That said, because the bracelet is full white gold, like the case, the watch is reasonably well balanced. No question the case outweighs the bracelet: I don't need to remove the bracelet to confirm that. But I wear the watch on the looser side (not super loose, but I could probably get away with removing one half-link if I wanted), and because of how balanced it is, it tends to stay in place. On occasion it may creep down on my wrist toward my palm, and the deployant trigger has, as a result, irritated skin on the underside of my wrist---I've sorted that by just being more conscientious. I don't fault the watch for this--it's how I choose to wear it.

    As to its size. My wrist is somewhere between 6.75 and 7 inches, with a flat 52mm or so across the span. No question, this piece is right at the limit of what I can wear, and as I've long been a proponent of 36mm as the universal size for men's watches, I wear this beast knowing that I'm violating some of my own aesthetic principles. That said, I have a pretty massive forearm tapering to that wrist, so the look-in-the-mirror is right-on: the watch does not appear oversize on me at all. It fits quite easily under a cuff when I'm wearing a suit (as required) for work. Yes, it's 43mm and there's a lot of dial there, but because it has a smooth domed bezel rather than a rotating ceramic one, the watch wears much smaller, IMO, than a Rolex SD43 or even a Submariner. (I've worn both.)

    Being an Aqua Terra, the watch looks at home with formal attire; it also looks appropriate with jeans and a t-shirt. It's my daily driver now; I only take it off to go to bed, shower, or if I'm doing something where I'd worry about damaging it (working out, yard-work, etc).

    It performs well. I have not taken it underwater or tested the limits of the power reserve (as I wear it every day), but the calendar function (with bidirectional quick-set!---very nice) works perfectly, and it was fun watching it switch over on New Year's Eve. (Around 12:01:30, instantaneous.) Time-keeping is ever-so-slightly disappointing: it's losing about 6 seconds per day, and that seems to be the case no matter how I position it overnight. I'm guessing this specimen sat in the OB's case for over half a decade before it sold, and it's about due for a service, which I plan to have done sometime this year. 7 beats-per-second, by the way---25,200bph---is, to my eyes, noticeably "tickier" than the more customary 28,800. That probably seems like a ridiculous thing to say, but I swear it's true, and I can hear and see a difference in how the second hand moves. Even 28,800 isn't smooth like a spring-drive from GS, but it's appreciably closer than this---and that's a good thing, from my point of view. I like seeing the ever-so-slight stutter of the hand, as it reminds me of the mechanical work propelling it.

    Winding is smooth--even though it's a double-barrel movement, it's not nearly as stiff to wind as other double-barrel ATs I've had. The crown stem is very sturdy---no wobble at all---and the clicks from winding to setting positions are very tidy. Although a service will undoubtedly change this, at present, when screwed in, the Omega logo on the crown is perfectly oriented, legs facing to 6.

    Having had an ordeal with the SMP300 dive clasps before, I was a bit nervous about owning another double-trigger Omega clasp, and indeed the action on this one is a little choppy (I don't know how else to describe it), but it hasn't seized up on me, and when it's closed it's very secure: I don't worry about it opening up unbidden. (If anything, I worry about it seizing up closed while it's still on my wrist: that's what happened with my dive clasps.)

    It's a great-looking watch: the black "teak" dial is truly special in bright daylight, but is also toned-down enough so that it calls no unwanted attention. I didn't think I could ever like two-tone, but the use of rose gold on this watch is so moderate that it just works. Lume is nice and bright and lasts until morning after a day of regular use/ambient, mostly indoor charging. I love that the calendar apertures match the color of the dial--that's a thoughtful touch. The fully brushed bracelet is wonderfully subdued: overall there are few polished surfaces, which is my preference. And the movement is magnificently finished---much finer than anything else I've seen from Omega (excluding some of their chronographs, of course). It's not Vacheron level or anything, but for this brand, it's damn good.

    I've learned from experience never to say never when it comes to the subject of whether one would ever part with a watch. Would I sell this if I had a shot at a 5126G or a 5167A at MSRP? Probably. And there could be other scenarios that would pry it off my wrist. But for now, I'm calling it a keeper. It's special. It's as close to a unique piece as I'm ever likely to own. And, for now, it feels like a watch that really "gets me," better than anything else I've ever worn.

    ...probably nobody will ever bother reading this. But there it is, for the record.
     
    Edited Mar 21, 2024
  3. akshayluc420 Jan 4, 2023

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    Wrist shot needed! Congratulations, I'm sure you can skip the gym now that you're pumping Au750.

    Any plans on getting it serviced? I get what you mean about the choppiness of the 3.5hz, the sound really ticks me off :):rimshot::)! Vis-a-vis bracelet, when I tried my AT8500G at the boutique I too felt the clasp was a bit fiddly, that was the first time I noticed the little white ball-bearing type things; do you think that's the source?
     
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  4. Aroxx Sets his watch Jan 4, 2023

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    It is a beautiful watch. Nice choice and congrats. I like the idea of a heavy gold watch although I’ve never experienced it and probably never will. I can’t help but notice the color contrast between the steel case and the bracelet. Is it that noticeable in the flesh?
     
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  5. SC1 Jan 4, 2023

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    I read it, and enjoyed reading it.

    Parting thought though... a wrist shot (your proclivities notwithstanding) or you're full of beans and actually own a Nixon ;)
     
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  6. Annapolis Jan 4, 2023

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    Ha. Wrist shot here:

    https://omegaforums.net/threads/incoming-wg-aqua-terra-43mm.153177/

    I do indeed plan to get it serviced this summer, most likely. Even though it’s probably > 5 years old, the warranty didn’t activate until this past September, so I’m hoping the service will be covered since it’s just out of spec.

    Re: color contrast: the entire watch (case and bracelet) is white gold—no steel to be found anywhere other than in the movement. I see what you mean in the one pic, I suppose. But there’s no contrast in the metal.
     
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  7. Annapolis Jan 4, 2023

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    And not sure, re: the clasp. I think it’s a spring issue, but you may be right.
     
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  8. SC1 Jan 4, 2023

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    That's a stunner that is also stunningly understated. Well done sir, well done.
     
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  9. Aroxx Sets his watch Jan 4, 2023

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    Ah ok. I think the mentions of “steel watch” made some strange incorrect connections in my brain and I dreamed up a steel case. It is cool that it flies under the radar compared to a yellow gold watch. I’ve never been into yellow gold myself. But that new moonshine gold Speedmaster with the green dial… I think I could make an exception.
     
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  10. Annapolis Jan 4, 2023

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    Yeah it’s funny—I don’t think I’m a yellow gold guy either. I just don’t feel like I’m a big enough deal to wear a full yg watch. But when I see them in the metal, I get the appeal. Saw a full gold Rolex CHNR recently. Just wow.
     
  11. Annapolis Jan 15, 2023

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    Addendum:

    I just returned from a several-day trip during which I didn’t wear the watch. I gave it a full wind and noted the date & time when I put it away. Based on when it konked out (ie the day/time displayed on the stopped watch when I got home) I can now confirm that it outperforms its stated power reserve: 63 hours.

     
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  12. Blind Feb 22, 2023

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    Fantastic review on a rare watch!
     
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  13. Netanel Jul 11, 2023

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    Awesome review, thanks for sharing!
    Dream piece for me, if you’re ever looking to trade/sell it, please let me know:)
     
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  14. Annapolis Jul 11, 2023

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    It’s pretty close to the mountaintop for me: I’ve learned to never say never, but the one or two pieces I’d consider selling this one for are probably unobtainable for me. But if it comes to pass, I’ll let you know. Given the extremely limited run, it’s a unicorn for sure.
     
  15. Netanel Jul 11, 2023

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    I totally get that:) Thanks for the reply!
     
  16. OCG Aug 17, 2023

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    Hi Annapolis, I have the same watch as you but in the leather strap/white gold clasp version limited to 161 pieces. Now, in Europe, if you send this watch to OMEGA for service, they make the polishing/ Rhodium bath for free. You know that you CANNOT just polish a white gold watch and I'm suffering because of that.
     
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  17. Annapolis Aug 17, 2023

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    Interesting. I was under the impression that this watch is “gray” gold, not rhodium plated—or maybe it is but they still do a rhodium bath, as you say, for some other reason.

    Cheers!
     
  18. OCG Aug 18, 2023

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    For me it's the definition of understatement, because of the brand, the material and the price, especially when somebody tells you "oh what a nice watch" and you just answer "yes thank you".
     
  19. carlos13 Aug 20, 2023

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    sounds like you are in love with it.cant blame you for that its a superb timepiece,well done.
     
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  20. Netanel Apr 2, 2024

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    I keep coming back to this review. What a masterpiece of a watch.