Omega Seamaster Quartz 120M Plongeur de Luxe 396.0900

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Just an appreciation thread for this "crisp" "grail" in my collection...

 
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Beautiful!! Have you ever had to get it serviced? I’m assuming since it’s quartz it’s cheaper but might be more due to how old it is?
 
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Beautiful!! Have you ever had to get it serviced? I’m assuming since it’s quartz it’s cheaper but might be more due to how old it is?
Yea they are an issue because these early quartz movements are vastly more costly and difficult to manufacture new parts for than even a 100 year old mechanical movement.

Couple with that the age of them, the fact that so many have already needed parts, and the pool remaining is very small and costly.

The good news is that this calibre was used in a number of other references which are exponentially less cool and less valuable than the de Luxe.

The best approach is to target gold plated Cal 1337 watches that are in bad shape in terms of case wear but run well and use those as movement donors to keep the de Luxe running.

I’ve also written about this reference here if you’re interested: https://stories.omegaforums.net/the-jacques-mayol-seamaster-120m/
 
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Somehow I'd missed this excellent article that sums up all that needs to be known about these wonderful watches. I remember buying the two-tone in 2010 on eBay and finding the quirky minute setting button didn't work...but taking advantage of the fact a broken watch is correct twice a day, popping the battery in and out took care of the problem ;-)
I later had that fixed by Tony at STS, just a small circuit that needed changing.
I wonder if I didn't see an 18k version in the wild at some point...nope can't find any pictures in my files. I did see it in the flesh at the museum in 2012 though.

I'd saved this from the old Omega website that had a database with much more info, including period prices, compiled by JLM, possibly Jean-Luc Monachon who was in charge of the archives at one point

"Reference
ST 396.0900 (196.0185)
International collection
1980
Movement
Type: Quartz electronic analogic
Caliber number: 1332/1337
Cal. 1332
Created in 1979, 17 jewels
Cal. 1337
Created in 1981, 17 jewels
Both with central sweep-second hand
Functions
Date
Case
Stainless steel
Case back
Screw-in
Dial
Dark grey (.005) with luminous hour markers and luminous "stick" hands.
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire
Bracelet
Stainless steel (integrated)
Water resistance
120 meters

NOTES : This watch may have existed with different dials.
More product information
Case ref. = ST 196.0185
Case: round, (7,4 x 37 x 41,1 mm) with screw-in crown, rotating knurled bezel and integrated SS bracelet of ref. 1382/381 or 1316/381
International Collection : 1980-1985
Swiss retail price (1982) : CHF 1'000.-
Also available in stainless steel with 14K yellow gold bezel (ref. DD 396.0900, CHF 2'620.-) and in 18K solid yellow gold (ref. BA 396.0900, CHF 14'500.
JLM"
 
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Yea they are an issue because these early quartz movements are vastly more costly and difficult to manufacture new parts for than even a 100 year old mechanical movement.

Couple with that the age of them, the fact that so many have already needed parts, and the pool remaining is very small and costly.

The good news is that this calibre was used in a number of other references which are exponentially less cool and less valuable than the de Luxe.

The best approach is to target gold plated Cal 1337 watches that are in bad shape in terms of case wear but run well and use those as movement donors to keep the de Luxe running.

I’ve also written about this reference here if you’re interested: https://stories.omegaforums.net/the-jacques-mayol-seamaster-120m/
Great read! Thanks for all the info, I will now have a constant eye out for one of these on the market!