Omega Seamaster Big Blue 176.004 - conservation project / ca

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Hi all,


I’ve recently picked up this Omega Seamaster 120 “Big Blue”, ref. 176.004, cal. 1040, which I believe dates to around 1973.


As you can see, it’s had a pretty hard life! The dial has developed some fairly extreme tropical patina, the original Bakelite bezel is mostly gone, the crystal is heavily scratched and the watch is currently not running.


That’s actually a large part of why I bought it. It appears to have survived without somebody cosmetically restoring it along the way, and I’d really like to keep it that way.


My intention is to get it mechanically restored and running properly while preserving as much of the watch as possible. I definitely don’t want the dial restored or relumed, the case polished, or its character removed. The original crystal appears to be Omega-signed and I’m hoping that might be sympathetically polished rather than replaced.


So my main question is: who would you trust with a restoration like this?


I’m in the UK and would particularly like someone who knows the cal. 1040/Lemania 1340 family well, but who also understands the difference between mechanically restoring a watch and making it cosmetically new.


I’d also be interested to hear if anything jumps out at you from the movement photographs before it goes away for work.


And finally, the long shot…


I’m looking for a genuine used outer Bakelite bezel for a 176.004. I’m deliberately not looking for a mint one - a faded, scratched and well-used original would suit this watch perfectly.


If anyone has an old original bezel sitting in a drawer after having their Big Blue restored or fitted with a replacement/service bezel, I’d be very interested to hear from you.


A few photos below showing the watch exactly as I received it.


Thanks!
Jamie

 
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Quick update: I contacted an Omega-accredited watchmaker today who checked the Omega parts database for me. Unfortunately the 176.004 bezel is now showing as unavailable from Omega, including Swiss stock. He also advised that these cases can be problematic to seal around the crystal and recommended that, if I can source a complete original used bezel, the watch should then go to Omega head office for assessment.


So the hunt for a used original bezel has become rather more important! If anyone has a battered one tucked away after a previous restoration, please do let me know - it doesn’t have to be immaculate .

 
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I'm just curious as to why you'd want to keep the watch looking like this? Is there some sentimental value or something else?

I think this looks like one of those watches where the best advice would be to send it to Omega for the full job. It will come back looking like new, with service parts of course.

Sourcing a bezel, servicing the movement and replacing or restoring the bracelet will already be pretty damn expensive and that's without replacing any parts.
 
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I'm just curious as to why you'd want to keep the watch looking like this? Is there some sentimental value or something else?

I think this looks like one of those watches where the best advice would be to send it to Omega for the full job. It will come back looking like new, with service parts of course.

Sourcing a bezel, servicing the movement and replacing or restoring the bracelet will already be pretty damn expensive and that's without replacing any parts.

Thanks for the reply.


No sentimental connection - I’ve only just bought it! It was really the originality and the way it has aged that attracted me to it.


I could have bought a much cleaner or restored Big Blue, but to me this one is far more interesting as a survivor. There are plenty of restored vintage watches out there that look almost new; once the original dial, hands, case finish etc. have been restored or replaced, though, you can never really put that history back.


So I’m not trying to make a new-looking Big Blue out of it. The tropical dial, worn case and general evidence of the life it has had are actually a large part of its appeal to me. I’d like to get the movement properly sorted, preserve the dial and hands, leave the case unpolished and retain as much of the original watch as reasonably possible.


I actually spoke to an Omega-accredited watchmaker today. He checked the Omega parts database and unfortunately the 176.004 bezel is now listed as unavailable, including from Switzerland. He also mentioned that these cases can be problematic to seal around the crystal.


I asked about the reproduction 176.004 bezels/inserts that occasionally appear for sale, but his view was that Omega wouldn’t use a non-genuine part and may not be prepared to undertake the job with one fitted. His advice was therefore to find a complete genuine used bezel first and then send the complete watch to Omega for assessment.


So at the moment the bezel really is the missing piece of the puzzle.


Ideally I’m looking for a complete, structurally sound original Bakelite bezel. It certainly doesn’t need to be mint - some fading, scratches and honest wear would probably suit the watch better than a pristine one - but I’d prefer to avoid one that is already chipped or breaking up given how fragile these old Bakelite bezels can become.


I’m hoping someone here may have had a Big Blue restored in the past and still has the original bezel tucked away somewhere.


Has anyone managed to source an original 176.004 bezel in recent years, or know of anyone who might have one?
 
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I saw that one. Sold for $2250. I thought of buying it and making it brand new by sending it to Omega. But 2 things held me back, the bezel which i knew woukd be extremely difficult to procure and the extreme rust on the movement. The movement will be really hard to clean up but i assume if sent to Omega they can replace parts as part of a service. I like originality but this dial and crystal would have to go in my opinion. There is no readon to keep them. Your best bet would be to send it to omega and then sour e a bezel. Omega service is $1000 + $300 for crystal and $500 for dial.
 
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Thanks - yes, it came in at around $2,000 shipped to the UK, which was a price I was comfortable taking a chance at.


The seller’s photos really weren’t great and unfortunately the forum reduces the quality of the ones I’ve uploaded too. A lot of what looked like damage to the crystal was actually old adhesive, which cleaned off quite easily.


For me, though, the dial was actually one of the main attractions. It has gone almost camouflage-like and I really like it. As we tend to say in the antiques world, it’s only original once.


There’s also apparently an interesting history behind the watch. I was told it originally belonged to a diver in Athens and had spent many years being used for diving before eventually being sold by his daughter. I’ve no paperwork to substantiate that, so I’m treating it as part of the watch’s oral history rather than proven provenance, but looking at the condition it certainly appears to have lived a fairly serious life.


That’s partly why I’m reluctant to erase everything that has happened to it. The tropical dial, battered case and general wear are part of the story for me rather than simply faults that need correcting.


If I wanted a fully restored or very clean Big Blue there are several on the market to choose from. This one appealed to me precisely because it wasn’t one of those.


The movement also looks considerably better in the hand than I feared from the original photographs. The seller told me that the balance was free, the crown turned but without any real winding resistance, and one of the chronograph pushers was stuck. So I’m hoping the fact that it isn’t running may be at least partly something on the stem/winding side rather than anything catastrophic - although obviously I won’t know that until a watchmaker gets properly into it.


I’ve since spoken to an Omega-accredited watchmaker who checked the Omega parts database for me. Unfortunately the bezel is no longer available, including from Switzerland, so I’m resigned to that potentially being a long wait.


Ideally I’d like to get the movement properly serviced, retain the original dial and hands, improve the original crystal if possible and eventually find a good, complete used original bezel. It doesn’t need to be mint - some honest fading and wear would actually suit the rest of the watch very well.


I’m in no particular hurry. Finding the right bezel is probably going to dictate the timescale anyway.
 
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It was good price. I just received this one yesterday. Everything is 100% original


For now get it serviced locally and when you get it back source a generic bezel insert, there is a ton on Ebay and with the correct measurements you can find one that fits. Waiting for an original replacement it will make your watch look a lot better. You can find one that is really close to the original look (I did it on a diver Seamaster 200 from the 70s and i was really pleased with the results (I never did find an original bezel so I bought another Seamaster 200 and sold the other one)