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Berglund71
·Thank you so much for help and knowledge. Here is a photo witout the dial covering the text.
Omega Constellation PP 1966
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Berglund71
·The 'turned' section on the rear is correct for this reference, as is the flattened edge to the medallion - yes a 168.010 @iamvr. 👍
The proximity of the star to constellation is also correct.
The crown is likely original as it only protrudes a little on the 168.010.
Although the lugs look a little soft in some angles, I suspect this watch looks better in reality than in the pics.
Congratulations OP but you do need a 19mm strap to for those lugs though 😉
My non-crosshair version of the same watch (notice the thicker replacement crown for reference)
serial 24,241,xxx ~'66/67
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Berglund71
·Thank you so much for taking your time and sharing your knowledge! I am learning so much right now. My Phone makes really bad exqmples of photos But I attach some more of the lugs for you to see if the angle seems correct. The watch also got "brushed" finish on the sides of the casing. See photo. Is this also correct? And please bear with me, but what does OP mean? Again, thank you so much for your kind responses!
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersThe dial is absolutely correct.
the minute haches on these .010s are generally right on the edge of the central pane and the font has pronounced serifs on the lettering.
the cross hair is correctly placed between the e & l in constellation.
nice onyx inserts in the indices.
you are likely to find some micro-bubbling in the dial lacquer.
the brushing on the sides of the mid-case is the correct finish.
The lugs are good but the angles are just a little softer than when it left the factory.
It’s a really good watch.
the minute haches on these .010s are generally right on the edge of the central pane and the font has pronounced serifs on the lettering.
the cross hair is correctly placed between the e & l in constellation.
nice onyx inserts in the indices.
you are likely to find some micro-bubbling in the dial lacquer.
the brushing on the sides of the mid-case is the correct finish.
The lugs are good but the angles are just a little softer than when it left the factory.
It’s a really good watch.
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersAnd OP is ‘original poster ‘ ( that’s you in this case)
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BroMega
·The back also looks like it may have had some engraving turned off by a lathe.
Not necessarily. Could just be "restored". Someone made a scratch in mine a while ago and that's how I got it back after that got fixed. (the scratch was not in the circle there btw) It was alleged that that's what they looked like new. I think it looks great that way.
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padders
··Oooo subtitles!GC lugs can be softer and less defined that steel or solid in my experience. The back does still look like it has some intervention and the side brushing isn’t AFAIK original but it wouldn’t put me off.
Edited:
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersGC lugs can be softer and less defined that steel or solid in my experience. The back does still look like it has some intervention and the side brushing isn’t AFAIK original but it wouldn’t put me off.
Agree about GC lugs being less sharp than solid gold or SS but they can be sharper than the OPs.
side brushing on these GC .010s is correct - mine has it and another was posted a while ago - which made me look at mine and discover it had it too.
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TexOmega
·
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SOG53
·So the assessment of the dial and case is so-far good? Pending other photos...... (for those of us in the peanut gallery)
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Berglund71
·Thank you all, so happy and thankful for all knowledge you share. So I will try to open it. Is there a special tool invoved? I dont want to risk any marks or scratches... I reckon it unskrew to the "left" like an normal thread?
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BroMega
·Thank you all, so happy and thankful for all knowledge you share. So I will try to open it. Is there a special tool invoved? I dont want to risk any marks or scratches... I reckon it unskrew to the "left" like an normal thread?
This is not something I'd attempt to do myself, especially not with a nice back like that. (ok, perhaps you've done it before and have the tools but otherwise, have a watchmaker do it.)
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersThank you all, so happy and thankful for all knowledge you share. So I will try to open it. Is there a special tool invoved? I dont want to risk any marks or scratches... I reckon it unskrew to the "left" like an normal thread?
+1
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MtV
·You can get a rubber friction ball for that purpose. They are cheap, I think even available on Amazon etc. Unless the caseback is extremely tightly fitted, this is an almost bulletproof way of opening a screw back watch.
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersYou can get a rubber friction ball for that purpose. They are cheap, I think even available on Amazon etc. Unless the caseback is extremely tightly fitted, this is an almost bulletproof way of opening a screw back watch.
I was going to suggest the same but hesitated as it has an applied gold medallion.
Might be ok on a late 60s watch but I would be loathe to do this on 50s/early 60s Connies with gold medallions ( which are known to shed their medallions )
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krogerfoot
·You can get a rubber friction ball for that purpose. They are cheap, I think even available on Amazon etc. Unless the caseback is extremely tightly fitted, this is an almost bulletproof way of opening a screw back watch.
