Forums Latest Members

Omega Constellation: C-Shape, Ref 168.009 (or 168.008)

  1. Jeff Stein Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    227
    Likes
    642
    I am trying to learn about the first of the "C-Shape" Constellations. Most sources suggest that the first of these C-Shape Constellations was the Reference 168.009, introduced around 1964. This leads me to ask about the one shown below (offered by a NYC dealer), which is marked 168.008. How is this one different from the 168.009? Might these be a variation in the watches (008 versus 009) or is this just a weird marking on the case-back?

    There was an excellent discussion of the mysterious 168.008 reference in 2012 -- https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-constellation-c-case-rare-or-franken.305/ I am wondering whether there is new information on the question.

    Thanks in advance for any information on this one!!

    Jeff


    Capture.JPG CaptureB.JPG CaptureD.JPG CaptureE.JPG
     
  2. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    12,206
    Likes
    15,723
    Jeff -

    I don't think that there has been any others of this case reference shown on this forum since the previous post you linked from 2012.

    What has changed is that I can now illustrate that Jules Borel shows a separate listings for 168.0008 and 168.0009.

    http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME cs#168.0008&submit=Search

    http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME cs#168.0009&submit=Search

    All the case parts look to be the same.

    I was able to find two other examples of this reference sold since that original post:

    http://www.antiquorum.com/catalog/l...and_facet=Omega&browse_all=1&page=1&q=168.008

    http://www.tourneau.com/shop/18k-yellow-gold-constellation-automatic-circa-1960s-59109p

    All the 168.008's have a plain white gold bezel, white gold hands, white gold markers with yellow gold dials and cases. The Ref. 168.009's have bezels, hands and markers that match the color of the case. Some dials on the .009's are textured I think.

    I think the Ref. 168.(0)008 is a legitimate Omega reference, just not in any catalog that I've ever seen.

    Hope this helps,
    gatorcpa
     
    Dedalus05, flame and TNTwatch like this.
  3. Jeff Stein Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    227
    Likes
    642
    Thanks, gatorcpa . . . very interesting to see your suggestion that it is a separate reference, with distinctive features. I am new to the "C-Shape" Constellations, but find them very interesting. This case reference last almost 15 years for Omega, and it also seems to have been the predecessor for the Seiko dive watches and Autavia chronographs. It all starts with a brilliant design, by Genta, then we see it copied / adapted / mass produced by Seiko, as well as brands like Heuer, Tissot and Eterna, that used the C-Shape cases.
     
  4. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    12,206
    Likes
    15,723
    Call 'em as I see 'em.

    We've seen four examples so far. The one you posted, the one from the original post and the two links in my prior post. All seem to have the same two-tone characteristics. I don't think any of them are the same example.

    That's enough evidence for me.
    gatorcpa
     
  5. Jeff Stein Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    227
    Likes
    642
    So I wonder how Genta drew the watch -- all yellow gold or two tone? Or perhaps he drew it in both configurations. I'm not sure what a watch designer actually produces, in terms of different variations / executions / etc.
     
  6. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Aug 5, 2015

    Posts
    12,206
    Likes
    15,723
    My guess would be that the original designs were just sketches. Omega then made prototypes to be shown at trade fairs, etc. After that, business decisions were then made about case metals, date/no-date movements and other details.

    However, Desmond knows far more about this process than I.

    We've been have a similar discussion about the new Globemaster that is coming out soon. A member ordered a platinum Globemaster without a date at a showing of the prototype, only to be informed later that Omega changed their mind and are now only offering them with dates.

    https://omegaforums.net/threads/trouble-in-paradise-globemaster-am-i-over-reacting.27932/

    gatorcpa
     
  7. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,467
    Likes
    65,609
    The 168.(0)008 case came in 9 variations based on information available I have (remember the numbers don't indicate the case material, and that is done through 2 letters). Very limited parts are listed for each case, but the cases are as follows:

    BA1680008 - 18CT 2N CLEAR YEL.GOLD CASE CAL. 0561 - note that 2N colour is "light yellow"
    BA1680008SP - YEL. GOLD CASE 18CT 2N18 CAL. 0564
    BB1680008 - 18CT. YEL. GOLD CASE CAL. 0561 - this is just regular yellow gold so 3N
    BB1680008SP - 18CT. YEL. GOLD CASE CAL. 0564
    BC1680008 - WHITE GOLD CASE 18CT CAL. 0561
    BC1680008SP - WHITE GOLD CASE 18CT CAL. 0564
    BD1680008 - 14CT YEL.GOLD PALE CASE CAL. 0564 - this is 1N "pale yellow"
    BD1680008SP - 14CT YEL.GOLD PALE CASE CAL. 0564
    ST1680008 - STEEL CASE CAL.561

    No indication of what the SP models have that is different than the non-SP models. No bezels are listed, but I doubt they would all have white gold bezels (in particular I doubt the steel case would have a white gold bezel but I can't confirm this).

    Looking at the dials that are listed (some have photos I can look at and some dials are even still available). The BA cases show two dials that have silver backgrounds with gold stick markers, but also one with a gilt background and gold stick markers.

    The BB cases have a silver background dial with gold stick markers.

    The ST case has a silver dial with silver stick markers. There is also a version of this same dial with luminous dots at each marker for the steel cases.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Al
     
    YYTIN, Als 27, KingCrouchy and 4 others like this.
  8. Jeff Stein Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    227
    Likes
    642
    Huge thanks for this information . . . very interesting!!
     
  9. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    12,206
    Likes
    15,723
    Based on the above, it would seem the "SP" refers to the cal. 564 movement. This should be easy to confirm by looking at the variations for the Ref. 168.005, which also came with both movements. I haven't a clue what "SP" stands for.

    Nice to have that direct access to the mother ship.

    Thanks Al.
    gatorcpa
     
    YYTIN likes this.
  10. X350 XJR Vintage Omega Aficionado Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    12,625
    Likes
    29,949
    The mysteries of Omega.
     
  11. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,467
    Likes
    65,609
    If you look at the BD pale yellow cases, both the SP and non-SP versions are for Cal. 564, so not sure that theory holds. People have in the past said that this stands for Special Pushers, but of course it shows up on watches that don't have pushers, so my belief is that it varies based on the specific case in question and just means it has something different about it.

    The 168.(0)005 shows the exact same pattern, right down to the pale yellow gold case being both 564's.

    For example if you look at the SM300 models, the 166.(0)024 without the SP uses the non screw down crown, where the SP version uses the screw down crown. Of course I don't think any of these dress models used a screw down crown, and in fact the SP and non-SP versions of each case material use the same crowns.

    Cheers, Al
     
  12. TNTwatch Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    2,876
    Likes
    1,950
    Not sure about this reference, but a few other steel C-cases have solid gold bezel (fluted style), e.g. 168.027.
     
  13. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,467
    Likes
    65,609
    Well the steel case for that reference shows a steel bezel. However there is a white gold bezel available and it is shown for the white gold case but can be bought separately of course - it's actually still available, but not cheap!
     
  14. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,996
    Likes
    32,712
    I bought a movement off a local dealer that was breaking a 168.027 up and he had melted the bezel so its definitely a gold part on the original watch. It might just be that only the stainless part is available now as these bezels often looked very yellowish as their plating wore through, the WG bezels didn't hold up all that well, especially to any polishing. A lot of them look like this:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  15. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,467
    Likes
    65,609
    No, not at all, as I said the white gold bezel is still available.
     
  16. Jeff Stein Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    227
    Likes
    642
    Guys:

    Thanks so much for this very informative discussion. As is so often the case, I posed what I thought of as a simple question, and received layer-upon-layer of excellent information. Great stuff!!

    A closing question, perhaps -- what do you guys think of the watch shown in my first message in this thread? Does it appear to be all original? Can readers suggest fair market price (either on the forum or in message (to [email protected])?

    I really want to find a nice 168.008, 168.009 or a later steel model!!

    Thanks again,

    Jeff
     
  17. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    26,996
    Likes
    32,712
    Sorry, totally misread your post, was 3:30am here so I was probably half asleep :)
     
    Archer likes this.
  18. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Aug 6, 2015

    Posts
    12,206
    Likes
    15,723
    I think it is original and looks very similar to the other three identified Ref. 168.008's above. The dials are likely all the same as for the 168.009's, as all the case parts are the same and every dimension seems to be the same as well. I certainly don't think there's any particular premium on this model over a regular C case.

    No idea of value, other than to recommend going on eBay and checking out completed auctions, just like we tell the noobies.

    Take care,
    gatorcpa
     
  19. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Aug 7, 2015

    Posts
    26,467
    Likes
    65,609
    No worries - I'm not saying it's impossible that they came from the factory with a white gold bezel. Who knows it might have been an optional upgrade of some kind back then...but just be aware that a steel bezel was and is available on the steel model, so you might be overpaying if you assume it's WG and it's not really.
     
    Als 27 likes this.
  20. Peemacgee Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungers Jul 30, 2019

    Posts
    5,161
    Likes
    7,892
    TNTwatch likes this.