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Omega 565 - Mainspring Eye Not Reaching Barrel Hook

AndGo
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Hello everyone, I’m looking for some advice and guidance.


I’m servicing an Omega cal. 565 and working with the barrel. I’m installing a GR2533X mainspring, and I’ve run into an issue: the barrel hook does not reach the eye of the mainspring.


Here’s the situation in more detail.
Initially, I wasn’t able to install the spring properly into the barrel - it popped out, and I had to wind it back in manually using finger cots (condom gloves). Before installation, I lubricated the barrel by applying a very thin, even layer of Moebius 8217 to the barrel wall, using a toothpick.


This leads me to two questions:


1. Secondary question regarding lubrication.
Should I lubricate the mainspring again? I understand that the GR designation means the spring is pre-lubricated, but since I handled and installed it manually, I’m concerned that some of the lubricant may have been transferred to the finger cots.


2. Main question - the mainspring eye.
The eye of the mainspring does not reach the barrel hook. I assume the solution is to slightly adjust (bend) the area around the eye, but I’d like confirmation on the correct technique.
Is it correct to do this using two tweezers - one holding the very end of the eye, and the other applying a controlled bend to the spring just behind the eye from the opposite side?


I’m asking because the last time I attempted this kind of adjustment, I broke the mainspring, and I’d like to avoid repeating that mistake.


Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_0645.webp
 
Canuck
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I think you are referring to the eye in the centre coil of the mainspring, not the barrel hook. A judiciously applied pair of stout tweezers should enable you the close the centre coil sufficiently to catch the arbor hook. As to lubricating the spring? I believe these springs are lubricated with Teflon. I wouldn’t suggest introducing a different lubricant to th e spring.
 
masteroftime
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GR=Generale Resorts, which is the manufacturer. It has nothing to do with whether the mainspring is lubricated.

By the way, I personally found Moebius 8217 braking grease to be terrible performance wise on these. So expect some variation in resulting performance if comparing your result to somebody who used p125.
 
AndGo
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Yes, thank you for the clarification - you’re absolutely right.
I am referring to the arbor hook and the eye of the centre coil, not the barrel hook.


If possible, could you schematically show or describe where exactly the tweezers should be placed on the centre coil when closing it?
I want to be sure I’m applying the force in the correct area and direction.


The reason I’m asking is that my previous attempt with the same type of mainspring ended unsuccessfully, and I’d like to avoid breaking another one.


Thank you for your help.

IMG_0616.webp
 
AndGo
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masteroftime masteroftime
GR=Generale Resorts, which is the manufacturer. It has nothing to do with whether the mainspring is lubricated.

By the way, I personally found Moebius 8217 braking grease to be terrible performance wise on these. So expect some variation in resulting performance if comparing your result to somebody who used p125.
Thank you for the clarification - that’s very helpful.
I wasn’t aware that GR refers to Generale Ressorts and not lubrication.


I used 8217 on the barrel wall in this case, but I’ll keep P125 in mind for future services, especially if I notice any performance differences.
 
Canuck
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AndGo AndGo
Yes, thank you for the clarification - you’re absolutely right.
I am referring to the arbor hook and the eye of the centre coil, not the barrel hook.


If possible, could you schematically show or describe where exactly the tweezers should be placed on the centre coil when closing it?
I want to be sure I’m applying the force in the correct area and direction.


The reason I’m asking is that my previous attempt with the same type of mainspring ended unsuccessfully, and I’d like to avoid breaking another one.


Thank you for your help.

IMG_0616.webp
You want to stay back from the “eye”,or it will likely break off. I see you have had that happen already! The arrows indicate my suggestion as to where to apply your tweezers.

IMG_3707.webp
 
AndGo
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Canuck Canuck
You want to stay back from the “eye”,or it will likely break off. I see you have had that happen already! The arrows indicate my suggestion as to where to apply your tweezers.

IMG_3707.webp
Thank you very much, that explanation and the diagram make it clear.
You’re absolutely right - last time I was applying force too close to the eye, which is why the spring failed.


Now I understand where the tweezers should be placed and how to approach it properly. I really appreciate you taking the time to point this out.


One quick follow-up question: is it safe to make this adjustment with the mainspring already in the barrel, or should the spring be removed first?
 
Canuck
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AndGo AndGo
Thank you very much, that explanation and the diagram make it clear.
You’re absolutely right - last time I was applying force too close to the eye, which is why the spring failed.


Now I understand where the tweezers should be placed and how to approach it properly. I really appreciate you taking the time to point this out.


One quick follow-up question: is it safe to make this adjustment with the mainspring already in the barrel, or should the spring be removed first?
Why would the adjustment be easier with the spring removed from the barrel? Adjust it with the spring where it is would be my suggestion.
 
ErichKeane
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Canuck Canuck
You want to stay back from the “eye”,or it will likely break off. I see you have had that happen already! The arrows indicate my suggestion as to where to apply your tweezers.

IMG_3707.webp
Interesting! I had this 1x with a seiko spring (apparently a manufacturing defect from a bunch from cousins about 6 months ago), and did it with 2 pair of needle-nose pliers with teeth ground off, and used a 'twisting' motion on the inside one. I was attempting to maintain the normal 'curve' of it, which I was afraid of ruining.
 
AndGo
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Canuck Canuck
Why would the adjustment be easier with the spring removed from the barrel? Adjust it with the spring where it is would be my suggestion.
Thank you very much for the clarification and guidance.
I really appreciate your time and help - it makes everything much clearer.
 
AndGo
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ErichKeane ErichKeane
Interesting! I had this 1x with a seiko spring (apparently a manufacturing defect from a bunch from cousins about 6 months ago), and did it with 2 pair of needle-nose pliers with teeth ground off, and used a 'twisting' motion on the inside one. I was attempting to maintain the normal 'curve' of it, which I was afraid of ruining.
Interesting - thanks for sharing your experience!
This is actually my second mainspring, and I’m having the same problem with both.
I also bought mine from Cousins, so it seems like it might be an issue with that batch.


I’ll be careful to follow the earlier advice about using tweezers and staying back from the eye, since I don’t want to risk breaking another one.
 
Archer
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AndGo AndGo
One quick follow-up question: is it safe to make this adjustment with the mainspring already in the barrel, or should the spring be removed first?
It’s likely safer to do this outside of the barrel. If you do it while it’s in the barrel, you need to be careful not to scratch or gouge the floor of the barrel drum. You already appear to have a good sized scratch there now…
 
Canuck
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Archer Archer
It’s likely safer to do this outside of the barrel. If you do it while it’s in the barrel, you need to be careful not to scratch or gouge the floor of the barrel drum. You already appear to have a good sized scratch there now…
Considering that (apparently) this poster does not use a proper mainspring winder, and has to resort to winding the spring into the barrel by hand, it occurs to me that it would be more convenient to do the job now that the spring is IN the barrel.
 
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