Omega 321 service... and...

J!m · Jan 23, 2024

So, as some of you know, I'm building up a 145.012-68 NASA replica watch.

I am collecting parts, and am capable of doing the build, but not confident in my overhaul skillset to trust myself not to ham-fist the hairspring or some other avoidable error servicing the chronograph movement myself. Plus I'd rather it be in the hands with a better ability to acquire replacement parts if needed. Movement is "clean" (no corrosion) but runs -60 sec a day. Beat error 1ms so just needs a cleaning and lube. I don't see excessive wear, chewed up screws or other indications of hack work in the past.

Is there a watchmaker out there sympathetic to my needs? One who would overhaul my movement without making me jump through hoops, sign waivers and/or pay a king's ransom for said work?

Further, I may be interested in having this watchmaker relume a dial and hands to match, and if so, perhaps go "all-in" for the assembly as well. But I am more than capable of the assembly, just not good (enough) with reluming and not good enough overhauling a chronograph at this point and don't get enough practice to hope for that.

I'm in CT if that matters.

PS also need case engraving done. I have a lead on the shop that did the original face plates for Mark Levinson, but this is not flat (well, the caseback is, but not the lug side).

Thanks in advance to all!

BlackTalon · Jan 23, 2024

The reputable watchmakers disassemble the movement for proper cleaning. Would that make you 'jump through hoops'? Other then sending them the watch I'm not sure what hoops there would be to jump though.

As far as worrying about 'paying a king's ransom' goes, I highly recommend you steer miles and miles clear of anything related to Mark Levinson gear.

The reputable watchmakers are pros. The independents are typically less expensive than Omega. But they do deserve to be paid a fair wage for their work (which includes overhead costs).

There are several watchmakers on OF, but frankly if they read your post they may have concerns about taking on your project.

sheepdoll · Jan 24, 2024

What? No Avatar yet?

I have many similar projects that are similar to yours. The el Rusto Valjoux 72 is fairly close. Way over my head on that one. I managed to bung the hairspring (which was a bit rusty as well) I did find a cheap hairspring online. No overcoil and it seems to be quite overlong, since it need to be vibrated to the balance. Currently the staff is out of the balance. I have a new one, but have not the courage yet to stake it in.

Meanwhile one Landeron 48 (well there were 6 I got over the last 30 years) Has become 14 or 15 plates and parts assortments. This way I can practice with staff and harspring work.

Practice, practice practice. Easy to say, hard to do.

I went cold turkey for 18 or so years on watches. I became enamored with pipe organs. A chance visit to Switzerland in 2022 to give a lecture on piano rolls, And I fell off the wagon. At least I saved 20 years of accumulations. The last year I think I has been a bit of a make up for lost projects. eBay is to seductive. I added a Val-22 last fall to the pile -- only to run into eBay nightmares of wrong (mislabeled parts) botched shipping and other odds and ends. eBay really is the place of last resort.

When I joined the forums I was hoping to find some friendly local watchmakers who could slip parts out the backdoor. Or even to visit for the sort of thing you ask about. I quickly learned the contracts in this world make such all but impossible. There was too much abuse in the 18 or so years I was away from this hobby. They say the world looses 1000 watchmakers a year. The remaining ones are swamped with the attrition.

At least I got to study a bit with some collectors back in the 1990s. So was able to learn the basics. Which in ways I had to relearn, along with changes of what is and what is not done. Practices (like repainting dials.) are now a no-no. Even using Rodico is suspect. Fortunately there is a wealth of information in the watchmaking section. There is also some other watchmaker forums I visit from time to time. I think they are called watchrepairtalk. I usually land on them through a google search.

The other problem in this day and age is the liability. These watches are major investments. They are also pure emotion. So when things go wrong. The results are not pretty.

Back in the 1990s I also spent time on the weekends, taking enamel jewelry classes/workshops and was looking into repainting dials. I was not satisfied with the results sending dials out was producing. At the time I was testing Apple laser printers, So was working on programs to print the dials with postscript. At least in this day and age one can get the lume powders and binders. For practice I have been using the cheap glow in the dark paints and glitter one can get from a big box craft store such as Michael's.

At the moment I have access to a local MakerSpace, which has some pretty nice tools. Laser engravers, cutting machines, 3D printers. Welding equipment, Lathes, Mills, and CNC machines, etc. Most of the time I never have a project ready. Given the amount of time these need in the design/program/debugging department.

So the stuff is out there. It is just a matter of making the best of it.

J!m · Jan 25, 2024

I have started a conversation with Adam Lewis, and he's willing to help. He's on the other side of the planet, but that's all I have so far.

The issue is, whenever I try to have an authorized repair location overhaul a movement, they will only accept a complete watch, and not a movement on its own. I ran in to this with my old Seamaster 300 and my 5512.

BlackTalon
The reputable watchmakers disassemble the movement for proper cleaning. Would that make you 'jump through hoops'? Other then sending them the watch I'm not sure what hoops there would be to jump though.

Just not repairing a movement; they want a complete watch (only) or they won't touch it.

BlackTalon
As far as worrying about 'paying a king's ransom' goes, I highly recommend you steer miles and miles clear of anything related to Mark Levinson gear.

My father-in-law was Mark's production manager, and that particular machine shop is local to me. I have other options as well. The style of engraving used on the 145.012-68 in is similar to the method used by the machine shop Mark used. That's all. Laser, dot peen or dragging a stylus are not the correct methods for these particular watches. The early ones look to have been done with letter and number punches... so it varied.

BlackTalon
The reputable watchmakers are pros. The independents are typically less expensive than Omega. But they do deserve to be paid a fair wage for their work (which includes overhead costs).

There are several watchmakers on OF, but frankly if they read your post they may have concerns about taking on your project.

That may be but I'm being up front on this. I can overhaul a simple movement, but not yet comfortable with a chronograph. And the 321 in particular is a bear. Adam at least replied and is willing to help. The pricing he quoted is fair and reasonable as well.

sheepdoll · Jan 25, 2024

A well made Lemania chronograph is a delight to work on. Especially when compared to a Landeron with stamped sheet metal parts, which vary greatly from watch to watch.

Does look like you found what you wanted.

Evitzee · Jan 25, 2024

J!m
I have started a conversation with Adam Lewis, and he's willing to help. He's on the other side of the planet, but that's all I have so far.

If you have Adam Lewis work on the movement you'll be in good hands, he's excellent, I have three watches that he worked on and all have meticulous workmanship. Shipping shouldn't be too much of a problem

J!m · Feb 6, 2024

Update:

I have the original case for the movement. It has been refinished unfortunately but I have it.

I also secured a correct dial in good shape. It needs a relume but the paint and printing are very good.

I have a set of service hands but they will be relumed to match the dial anyway.

Adam will provide sub dial hands, caseback with engraving and a bezel. He will engrave the case side too.

I’m also going to send my 1st gen X-33 because it went into dead battery mode and a new battery isn’t bringing it back. It still acts like the battery is dying with the new cell so he’ll sort that out for me too.

I guess it’ll be a bit of a wait but I’m excited to get it all done.